I need some aftermarket switches/controls input or reviews

[Guest]

I'm in the final reassembly mode on my GS750 build. My stock handlebar switches/controls are beyond service and I'd like to get a new set. I don't need top of the line stuff but I'll pay for reliability. Thanks.

[roeme]

Oh, this will be useful. Subbed.

[nastyjones]

I used newer gsxr and Bandit stuff. Great quality and looks like it belongs.

[Fjbj40]

Nice stuff here http://www.kandstech.com/index.php?p...itchescontrols

[mmattockx]

Search fleabay for "motorcycle handlebar switches" and "motorcycle handlebar switchgear", there are tons of options. I was looking at these, but have no idea on reliability:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motorcycle-ATV-7-8-Handlebar-Horn-Turn-Signal-Headlight-Electrical-Start-Switch-/252083494927?hash=item3ab158e00f:g:yTUAAOSw3ydV7P40&vxp=mtr

Some that were recommended to me by a friend who has used them on several bikes:

http://www.parts-unlimited.com/products/?productId=363817&partNumber=06160183

http://www.parts-unlimited.com/products/?productId=363821&partNumber=21060076

Mark

[Grimly]

I'd be inclined to look at low-mileage GS500 switchgear and do whatever necessary plug-in mods are needed. Some of the cheapy switches look ok, but I have no idea of their quality, so I'd go for OEM stuff that's got plenty of life left in it. GS500s were produced until just a few years ago and many of them didn't do much duty.

[geol]

A couple things to keep in mind... first... the right hand switch gear will provide complications regarding the throttle cable. Best to get a separate throttle with matching cable that will work on your carb assembly. The GS carbs are not hard to match as far as cables. Second, the starter solenoid will need a hot wire going to where the yellow/green wire connects. This should come from the starter button. Your clutch interlock will have to be disabled or you will have to run the wire from the start button into your headlight shell land connect to the wire going to the starter solenoid. The Suzuki bikes seem to have the hot wire for the coils and igniter (or points) coming off the kill switch before it goes to the starter button. The switch must be configured in this manner. Probably can be done easily but you need to keep this in mind. The K&S switches look promising but they lack any documentation for how they are wired. The left hand switch... the ground is important. SOME bikes have an internal ground in the switch. This is normally a weak point as the switch ages and the ground corrodes. A better switch will have a ground wire coming out that can be connected to the wire harness grounding. Older Kawasakis mostly have internally grounded switches and these switches are normally flaky as the grounds are normally in poor shape. Grounds tend to corrode easily.