Possible damaged R/R and/or stator

[noratx]

Hmm, I guess that I would have to find room for the sh775 r/r then. Even though I am limited in the economy, i prefer not having to redo this in a year or 3.

So, will try to get new readings on the stator in an hour or so, and be ready to order whats needed after that.

I did understand that the sh775 was different from others, but guess I hoped that the caltric ones might have been different too. ( I guess you would have suggested it if they were though).

I dont think I will convert to leds though,I prefer a nold bike to be as close to stock as possible. The only thing I am ever going to dd to it, are a couple of USB chargers.

[noratx]

So then, new readings taken, leg-to-leg on the stator, and the meter correctly configured.
They are almost the same as the last readings.
07.x Vac
03.x Vac
04.x Vac

All taken at 5000 rpm.

I also did a leg-to-leg and leg-to-ground resistance reading, which showed 0 resistance.

So, I take it as new stator is needed, and I will get the series SH775 R/R and a new gasket, and hope that when replacing them it will work better.
Now, to try save some money on shipping at least, I will try find somewhere that can sell me all 3 items at once.

I will search google and the forums, but if you know somewhere (especially european webshops, but american works just as well), I apreciate any suggestions.

[posplayr]

If those are leg to leg reading that stator is fried and without the sh 775 you will just fry the new one.

[noratx]

Posplayr: they were leg-to-leg readings. And... as I dont wish to go through this again, i will get the sh775.
Just trying to find somewhere where I can get both regulator and stator from the same source instead of having to pay 30 - 50 bucks for each shipping from US to Sweden.

I think there was a thread in the forums tellig where you could buy the sh775 and possibly also a stator, but I cant find it (I could be wrong as well).

I have so far only found places which only have one of the two.

You don't happen to know of anywhere, where I can get both?
Preferably european site, as it will get here both faster and cheaper, but US sites works just as well.

Edit: Couldn't find anywhere to buy everything from the same supplier.
Got the stator and gasket from Caltric, and the SH775 from a german supplier.
Hopefully it arrives soon, and I also hope that this will help without much more work.

I think, however, that the harness needs to be looked at, as well as converting to single point ground and getting rid of the headlamp loop.
However, I will save that for the winter season.
Right now I just want to be able to ride my bike without having to swap batteries every few days.

[noratx]

I received the SH775 regulator yesterday and are now just waiting for the stator to come through from the US (It havn't even left US yet sadly, but hopefully it's here within a week).

Now I need to ask a few questions, because I need to purchase some wires to wire it all up.
I have been looking at the installation instructions for the Solid Stats Power Box to get some recommendations at least when it comes to the gauge of the wires, but I am a bit hesitant, as I want to be sure to get it right.

Where I can buy the wires, they are measured in mm, and goes from 0.5 mm and up to a ot thicker diameters.

I have not measured the tickness of the existing cables, but I thought maybe some of you guys knows what thichness is best to use.
I would also like to, unless you don't recommend it, extend (by replacing) the battery cables with 2.5 - 5 centimeters (about 1 - 2 inches) while I am anyway poking around that area. The existing cables are a bit short and I'd prefer atleast to be able to lift the battery up from it's holder if I have to unplug it.

The hot wire is a lot thicher than the ground wire, but I have no clue what dimension to use.

Can I please ask you guys, what dimensions of wires should I order for the plus and minus pole for the battery, and what dimensions do you recommend for the wires to connect the stator and the R/R.
Preferably if you can, in mm and not ga or inch. I have found a converter from ga to inch and mm, but I find it confusing.

Thanks in advance!

[dantodd]

Personally I'd use 2.5mm. I would also not extend the battery leads and just disconnect the cables before lifting the battery. a few centimeters here or there won't make a huge difference but they start adding up over time and you really don't want loose wires as they tend to get flexed more and break strands. Also, I know it's a bit more expensive but wire for boats is really the best for use on your motorcycle. It has fine wire strands and they're usually fully tinned which makes them corrosion resistant as well as better about being flexed.

[noratx]

Thankyou dantodd,

I guess you mean 2.5mm for the battery? 2.5mm for the rest seems a bit too thick?
The reason for me wanting to extend the leads a bit, is because I don't feel entirely comfortable trying to disconnect the leads while the battery is fully sinked into it's cage.
I don't like when I get sparks if by accident are touching the frame with the tools when I try to disconnect the battery. It havn't happened on this bike yet, but did often on another bike I had.
I am not going to just extend by adding a few centimeters to the leads, but rather, if and where possible, replace the leads completely for longer ones.

When it comes to the price range of the leads, even if they are more expensive, I doubt it will be a considerable amount, since it's not several meters of wire I am going to need.

[dantodd]

Thankyou dantodd,

I guess you mean 2.5mm for the battery? 2.5mm for the rest seems a bit too thick?
The reason for me wanting to extend the leads a bit, is because I don't feel entirely comfortable trying to disconnect the leads while the battery is fully sinked into it's cage.
I don't like when I get sparks if by accident are touching the frame with the tools when I try to disconnect the battery. It havn't happened on this bike yet, but did often on another bike I had.
I am not going to just extend by adding a few centimeters to the leads, but rather, if and where possible, replace the leads completely for longer ones.

When it comes to the price range of the leads, even if they are more expensive, I doubt it will be a considerable amount, since it's not several meters of wire I am going to need.

Yes I was referring to the main battery lead from the RR to the positive terminal. I use 14 gauge wire which is closer to 2mm but I think 2.5 is the closest standard size. Disconnect the negative lead from the battery first, they if you do touch the frame while disconnecting the positive there will be no short and no sparks.

[noratx]

So, the regulator and statorhas finally arrived.
Today I had planned on swapping them both, unfortunately, things does not always go as planned.

I only had the time to swap the stator.
Now is the question... obviously I will have to change the regulator as well, I have bought it so I am not just going to let it sit on a shelve.

But am I taking a huge risk by using the bike for a few days before I change it?

I will be using it for perhaps 50, maybe 70 km/day.
How big is the risk that I will damage the stator during the next few days? If I have the time for it, i will swap the regulator on tuesday or thursday. At latest on saturday or sunday.

Also, I would like to ask, any of you who knows if I need any other bolts or modifications for the SH775 regulator? Or is everything just bolt on?

[noratx]

anyone?
I did try aearch the forum for answers to what could possibly be needed, but didnt find anything.

[roeme]

(...)
But am I taking a huge risk by using the bike for a few days before I change it?

I will be using it for perhaps 50, maybe 70 km/day.
How big is the risk that I will damage the stator during the next few days?

(...)

Also, I would like to ask, any of you who knows if I need any other bolts or modifications for the SH775 regulator? Or is everything just bolt on?

If you have verified your current R/R to be in good order, then you might do it, since you understand the risk. However, unless you do not know how to test diodes, and understand the R/R's internal schematic, you only have to blame yourself if you get stranded, and have to order a new stator, and redo the thing.

Since you just recently got a multimeter of your own, I advise against doing so.

There are accounts of our GS' electricals (i.e. R/R, stator) working well for a long time, and of failing early. What is certain however, that they will fail.

Wether you are willing to take this gamble, that you have to decide by yourself, not some people on the intertubes.

As an example, one of my GS'es was running, but not charging very well. After some investigation, I found the Regulator shot, and the Rectifier barely hanging on. But the bike would run. My gamble was to drive to the second bike, and transplant it's healthy R/R - possibly ending up on the side of the road somewhere -, or to get over there and back with public transport or a friends' car. Needless to say, I did not gamble.

The SH775 is simple to connect, no electrical modifications necessary. Mechanically, I have no idea re. your bike, but I don't know of anyone having major problems. It sometimes even goes into the old R/R's place.

[cowboyup3371]

I personally park the bike when I know I have a major repair like that to make. As far as bolts or other modifications, I'm not positive on the 850 but I used the same R/R slot with mine and bolt size though they might be a bit longer.

[noratx]

Thank you Cowboy.
I would park my bike too, if I could.. unfortunately, my bike is what I use to get to work with during season.
During winter I have other means of transportation which I can't use during summer seasons unfortunately.

Fortunately, I think I will be home early enough to take care of the R/R swap tomorrow.
So far, I am happy to see that my battery is charging and that my headlight are showing as much light as it should be showing

[noratx]

I am sorry roeme, i did not see your post, so never replied to it.

I did gamble and took my chances, and seems miss fortune were smiling at me. Everything seems fine.

I started replacing the r/r a few hour ago, and got done just recently.
Everything seems to be working perfectly now.
The stator tests checked out with flying colors after I was done.

Only thing left to do is converting to a single point ground, but that will be done during the winter when I will anyway disconnect the entire loom and go through it properly.

As it is now, I have to my knowledge 3 ground points.
The battery terminal grount which is grounded to the frame below the battery compartment.
The r/r ground and the ground for lightbulbs are grounded to the same place at ine of the barretycompartment bolts, and then an unknown ground wire coming from the loom, connecting just to the right of the fusebox with a small philips screw.

Not sure if there are any further grounds coming from the loom.
Some PO have been constructive at some point(s) and rewired some stuff, leaving the loom slightly damaged at some points and taped it up.
Since the bike is and have been working so far, I will just continue riding this summer with no more than absolutely necessary fixing.

The big project for the winter is to create a new loom, put a new seat cover on, and possibly give it a new coat of paint since some ass 3 weeks ago jad kicked my bike to the ground, which gave the fairings some damage. :/

[posplayr]

If you have not shut down operations till winter. I would do the Quick Test in my signature. I 'm not exactly sure what you mean by three point ground because I don't know where physically those three points are. However you should probably at least run a wire direct from the r/r ground to the battery negative terminal. In addition I would use an electronic contact cleaner to spray out the fusebox. This is because I assume you don't have the time to actually clean it.