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1978 GS1000 dyna ignition timing seems weird.

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    1978 GS1000 dyna ignition timing seems weird.

    Hey guys. So I was trying to set my ignition timing today and I'm not really sure if I'm wrong or right about something. I hooked up my multimeter to the wire going to one of the coils (black or white) and grounded the multimeter to the engine. Then i proceeded to rotate the engine counterclockwise until I saw voltage on my multimeter. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that I'm supposed to see voltage after I pass the TDC mark and just barely hit the FIRE mark. I was getting voltage about 1/4'' to 5/16'' in advance of the TDC mark. To correct this, I tried to retard the timing by rotating the thing counterclockwise. But even with it at full retard, It still gets voltage just before TDC. It did this for both 1&4, and 2&3. Have any of you guys had this problem or know what I'm possibly doing wrong?

    #2
    The F ignition mark should align when the plug fires. You need to adjust the pickups and rotate the plate as needed to make this happen.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

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      #3
      to static time the Dyna you have to hold the advance unit fully clockwise while you rotate the engine. It should fire exactly on the F mark slightly before TDC.
      1978 GS1085.

      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Agemax View Post
        to static time the Dyna you have to hold the advance unit fully clockwise while you rotate the engine. It should fire exactly on the F mark slightly before TDC.
        This is incorrect. If you hold the rotor against the springs the plug should fire and align with the timing mark to the RIGHT of the F mark. Holding the rotor is what the instructions say to do, but it's unnecessary. If you get alignment with the F without holding the rotor, the full advance mark will align if you hold the rotor.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          It seems like using a strobe timing light would make a lot more sense. Using a timing light, you can also see when the advance is working as it should. They sell timing lights on eBay and at almost any auto parts store.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            This is incorrect. If you hold the rotor against the springs the plug should fire and align with the timing mark to the RIGHT of the F mark. Holding the rotor is what the instructions say to do, but it's unnecessary. If you get alignment with the F without holding the rotor, the full advance mark will align if you hold the rotor.
            ok you are right about the marks, but that is the way Dyna state to set the static timing.
            I would always check it afterwards with a strobe light anyway, the static timing is just to get it to a point where you can start it up, to check it with the strobe. most times a static time works out to be spot on anyway
            1978 GS1085.

            Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

            Comment


              #7
              Buy or borrow a strobe lamp, better than fiddling with a meter !
              My bikes 79 GS1000 1085 checked and approved by stator the GSR mascot :eagerness: and 77 GS750 with 850 top end, GS850g, and my eldest sons 78 GS550, youngest sons GS125. Project bike 79 GS1000N

              Comment


                #8
                The additional benefit to timing a pre-electronic ignition bike with a new Dyna S is that there are marks for both pairs of cylinders on the advance. I cut some little marks for 2/3 on my 80 that started life with an IC igniter igntion. Another problem with the Dyna S is that Dynatek is not too particular how they set the pick up coils and so if you get 1/4 right on the mark, it could be there isn't enough adjustment on the 2/4 pickup coil to put it 180 degrees opposed to the 1/4 and you have then slide the 1/4 over some to compensate and re-time 1/4 then go ahead and time 2/3. Making longer slots on the pick up coils would help solve this issue.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I ended up buying a timing light and used that instead of a multimeter. Timing is now perfect.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    sigpic 82 gs1100ez 1168 Wiseco,Web .348 Cams,Falicon Sprockets,Star Racing Ported Head,1mm o/s Stainless Valves,APE Springs,Bronze Guides,etc.APE Billet Tensioner,36CV Carbs,Stage 3 Dynojet,Plenum w/K&N filter,Trued,Welded,Balanced,Crank w/Katana rods & Billet left end, FBG backcut trans, VHR HD Clutch basket,APE nut,VHR High volume oil pump gears,1150 Oil cooler,V&H Megaphone header w/Competition baffle,Dyna S,Coils,Wires,etc.Other misc.mods.

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