Replace Turn Signals...Fail

[Guest]

Wanted to replace the huge turn signals with cool small ones, bike said 'nope'. So, the interwebs says 'Your resistance is all wrong. Replace the turn signal relay and you'll be good. Follow BikeCliff's replacement pdf.' Well, I did. To the letter. Got the EP34 relay and relay holder. No workie. I got them to come on but only if I put the Green/Orange wire on the "B" side, Light Blue wire on the "L" side, and a chassis ground on the "E" side. So, at this point, turn signals light up and blink for about 3-4 seconds, then blow out the 10A turn signal fuse. If I wire them how the PDF says, nothing happens. If I only connect one turn signal by itself (left or right) it blinks good. No problems. It's only when I have a full circuit that it blows the fuse. Everything was hunky dory with the orginal turn signals and the wiring seems really good. Do I need to add a resitor to the circuit? Is there something I need to bypass? Please, please, please help.

[geol]

You might start by modifying your profile/signature to put your bike year/model so folks will have a better frame of reference. You might also want to tell folks if the turn signals you are using now are incandescent or LED. Without knowing a few basic things, it is hard to guess. I am also not sure how many folks will know what an EP34 relay and relay holder are.

[Steve]

We can't help you until you tell us what bike you are working on.

Not just because we are picky, but different bikes take different solutions.

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[Aldo619]

Sorry guys. First post ever.

I have a 1982 GS1100G. I have incandescent lights.

[posplayr]

It sounds like the LEDs require resistors. You need to use an amp meter or ohm meter to see if there are resistors built in.

[Aldo619]

No, they're incandescent...
According to the interwebs, I need to add a load resistor. If, that's the case, then I might re-install the original flasher. I'll get to work on it this weekend. Can't wait. ..

[Steve]

OK, there are a few things going on here.

First, we'll ignore your apparent disregard for your own safety by installing smaller lights on a vehicle that too many people already have trouble seeing.

Second, although they are incandescent lights, they are probably smaller bulbs (to fit your desire of smaller lights), which are also not as bright (which only compounds the problem). They are not as bright because they draw less current from the bike.

Third, the stock flasher unit requires a certain amount of current flowing through it to do its job. Since you have reduced that current, it won't work.

Fourth, the stock flasher unit is also part of the self-cancelling signal system and has part of that system built into it. There is NO other flasher available ANYWHERE that has that circuitry, so you will have to adapt.
4a. If you are willing to give up your self-cancelling signals (make them manual-cancel), you can get a TWO-pin flasher unit that will handle the reduced current.
4b. If you get a three-pin flasher, you will have to adapt your wiring harness, because one of those three pins will be for a ground connection, the stock flasher does not have a ground.
4c. If you want to retain your self-cancelling signals AND use lights with lower current draw, you will have to make an adapter to have the Turn Signal Control Unit control the power through the new flasher relay.

Fifth, yes, you can put some resistors in the circuit to simulate the current draw of full-size lights, but be aware that they do get HOT. Where do you plan on fitting them?

Lastly, you might have to adapt yourself, by giving up on all the work that you have to do just to achieve a LOOK (which really can't be seen ) and just put the original signals back on.

Your bike, your choice.

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