SH 775 connections and mounting

[gplouff]

I bought an SH775 for my 81 1100e. I did not buy the connecting harness. It turns out that it's form factor would've been a bigger problem. I can mount it with one original screw, but it's tight up against the fuse box, but there's really no other option. I was thinking I would cut away the plastic on the connectors or drill through them and through the spades inside. Then I'd be able to get a loop of wire around each spade and then solder and shrink wrap. I do not want to solder on the other ends. I'd rather use new barrel connectors there. What do you recommend for wire size, connector size, methods any thoughts? I know plenty has been written, but I want to go for a ride tonight and use materials I have on hand. Thanks! You guys are great. If it weren't for you, I'd have to ride my Kawasaki, and this GS is way more fun.

[JTGS850GL]

If you're in a big hurry, then I'd just run 10 or 12 gauge wire with female spade connectors directly to the R/R from the stator. The R/R connectors use the same size spades as the yellow male to female spade connectors. Then run the same gauge wire, again using a spade connector from the negative to the battery - and the positive to the original positive red wire. Don't even bother with bullet connectors. In the end I would still get some of the proper water tight connectors. You have plenty of room.

[tom203]

In a hurry? Just do what I did.. Crimp on spades 3 years ago- my sh-775 is held on by one bolt.

Perfect day for ride.. been there already today and it was hot in Fryeburg!

[gplouff]

Yes, it's a very nice day to be going for a ride around Sebago Lake. I was originally thinking spades but then I figured they'd come loose eventually. It turns out I've got to go to the store anyway, unless I want to wire the whole thing in red. I was thinking a bolt and a tie wrap! The original RR is 20 gauge wire. The other ends are bullets already, and I have those, plus lots of red wire. As usual, thanks you guys.

[Nessism]

I used 14 gauge wire. Crimp on some female spade terminals and plug them in straight to the R/R. Fill the open cavity with electrical safe RTV if you want to improve weather protection.

BTW, it's important to route the stator wires directly into the R/R, bypassing the factory harness. Run your R/R ground over to the battery, and feed the power output wire into your fuse box. Shortcutting on the wiring is way worse than using spade terminals and RTV.

[Steve]

Have not seen 20-gauge R/R wiring, most of it is 16- or 18-gauge. I think the stator wiring is also 16- or 18-gauge wiring, so use at least 16-gauge, but 14-gauge won't hurt anything. The output and ground wires should probably be 10-gauge.

The three stator wires won't matter what color they are. It would be handy if the output wire were red, the ground wire black, but that is not mandatory. Mainly because it's dark inside the insulation and the electrons can't see what color is on the outside, so they don't really care.

As mentioned, be sure that your three stator wires go directly to the R/R and do not take the "headlight switch detour" through the harness.

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[gplouff]

My stator has three black wires coming out of it. Two of them go to the RR and one of them connects to a green and white in the harness. A red and white then comes out of the harness and goes to the RR. You're saying connect the green and white to the red and white? You're right, I don't know why they would've sent that signal through the front of the bike.

[gplouff]

I'm happy to report, I'm a 100% sorted, and I did get that ride in. That thing is fun to ride, emphasis on fun. Between the coil relay mod, new RR, and synchronized carburetors, I feel pretty good about what I've got going for an antique motorcycle. It's one mean grin-turning machine. Boy, am I gladgare you guys are around.

[tom203]

My stator has three black wires coming out of it. Two of them go to the RR and one of them connects to a green and white in the harness. A red and white then comes out of the harness and goes to the RR. You're saying connect the green and white to the red and white? You're right, I don't know why they would've sent that signal through the front of the bike.

As mentioned ,connect all three stator wires direct to the SH-775. Forget about the green/white and red/white wires. Suzuki made an attempt to lower stator output when headlight was off, but ditch this scheme and let the SH-775 control things.