Coil Relay Results Question

[Steve]

Or, ... you can do it ALL with just one relay by using that relay to power the stock fusebox.

Use the ignition key's orange wire to activate the relay, instead of powering the fusebox, you get it all with just one relay.

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[mmattockx]

Or, ... you can do it ALL with just one relay by using that relay to power the stock fusebox.

Use the ignition key's orange wire to activate the relay, instead of powering the fusebox, you get it all with just one relay.

.

Steve,

The voltage is just fine at the fusebox, it is downstream of that where old wiring is stealing voltage. Or did I misunderstand your idea?


Mark

[posplayr]

Steve,

The voltage is just fine at the fusebox, it is downstream of that where old wiring is stealing voltage. Or did I misunderstand your idea?


Mark

You are correct but the biggest issues happens at the ignition switch because it has at least 10 amps going through it with the headlamp on. If you avoid that (as per Steve's recommendation) that is the biggest problem, but you still need to watch teh fusebox and keep it clean.

Downstream of the fusebox each accessory circuit is different depending on susceptibility to low voltage and the actual current draw to each circuit. The ignition circuit draws about 3 amps on average and so if the kill switch is relatively clean you are close as good as you can get.

Motors are different but the 1100 16V are susceptible to low voltage and can be real hard to start with just 10.5V to the coils.

If you choose to focus on the ignition, I would also power the ignitor off the relay as well. It is easy to do and requires almost not cuts to the entire ignition circuit.

[Steve]

Steve,

The voltage is just fine at the fusebox, it is downstream of that where old wiring is stealing voltage. Or did I misunderstand your idea?


Mark

Posplayr has pretty much already answered the question, but I just wanted to add that I find it amusing at times that someone might check voltage at the coil and find it low, so they put in a coil relay. Then they check the headlight voltage, find it low, and intall a headlight relay.

If they had bothered to check the voltage (and maybe a drop) at the fusebox, they could see exactly where their voltage is dropping. If it's at, or before, the fusebox, all the separate relay mods will help their individual items, but not help the whole system.

Bottom line, check the whole system first, to determine where the problem lies, then apply the appropriate 'fix'.

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[mmattockx]

You are correct but the biggest issues happens at the ignition switch because it has at least 10 amps going through it with the headlamp on. If you avoid that (as per Steve's recommendation) that is the biggest problem, but you still need to watch teh fusebox and keep it clean.

Fair enough, thanks for clearing that up.


Mark