Bad starter?

[DimitriT]

82 GS550L:

A few days ago I tried to start the bike and eventually after many cranks it slowed down and stopped. I figured I drained the battery so I put the battery on a charger overnight and tried it again. This time it cranked 2-3 times and then stopped. I figured the battery must not be holding a charge so I got a new battery. With the new battery I get a click and a few rattles from the starter but its no longer cranking.

Did I blow out the starter? I will check the voltage at the starter terminal. Is there anything else I can diagnose without taking the starter off the bike?

Are starters rebuildable or am I looking at a replacement?

[tom203]

Seems your starter is tired.... Newly rebulit units run about $150 (like Ricks) or be brave and go surfing.... Here's one off a 650E that shares same updated part number

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Starter-Motor-TESTED-Suzuki-GS-650-EZ-/311607642097?hash=item488d4347f1:g:zrsAAOSwLs5XLa14&vxp=mtr

[Steve]

Starters are rebuildable, but check the battery first. I know you said you got a new one, but even new ones are not always good.

Check the voltage at your battery before you turn the key ON. Watch the voltage as you turn the key, wait about 10 seconds to see what happens. Finally, push the starter button.

A fully-charged battery should show at least 12.6 volts.
Under load (key ON), voltage will drop, should settle in the 11.8-12.2 volt range, but will continue to drop slightly.
When you push the starter, voltage should not drop under 10.

If any of those voltages are low, suspect the battery before the starter.

As a test, use jumper cables to connect your bike to your car, WITH THE CAR NOT RUNNING.
If your starter still has problems, yes, it's the starter.

Rebuild kits can be gotten from Stockers Starters. Before ordering a kit, be sure to take your starter apart to see if it is a 2-brush or 4-brush unit. The two kits are not interchangable.

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[DimitriT]

Well, I read 12.2 V at the starter terminal when I push the starter button. Not a peep from the starter.

Is it possible to pull the starter without taking the stator cover off? Without taking the cylinders off?

[Steve]

It's possible that the brushes are shot. A rebuild kit from Stockers would likely fill the bill.

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[DimitriT]

It's possible that the brushes are shot. A rebuild kit from Stockers would likely fill the bill.

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Yep. So to remove the starter, do I pull off the stator cover? Can I pry it out without removing the cover?

[Steve]

I doubt you will have to remove the stator cover, but you WILL have to remove the carbs and cam chain tensioner.

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[DimitriT]

I doubt you will have to remove the stator cover, but you WILL have to remove the carbs and cam chain tensioner.

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Already there

Stator cover did NOT need to come off. Starter pops out nice and easy. It is the 2 brush style and it definitely needed new oil seals and the + brush was worn down to a nub. So I'm giving the rebuild kit a try.

[Brendan W]

Check the earth cable from the crankcase back to the battery. If there is enough corrosion of the core it will offer enough resistance to slow or stop the starter motor. A quick way is to bypass it with a jumper lead from the case to the jump battery negative pole. Make sure the connections are good. Many jumpers are toys and in worse shape than the cables you are trying to bypass.

[DimitriT]

So I rebuilt the starter using a kit from Steve's link. The kits include brush plate, bearings and seals. In the end it was too much work to replace everything and the new brush plate was a pain to install so I just replaced the seals (which were bad) and the positive brush. The result is the starter now cranks about 2x faster than it ever did since I got the bike. Amazing.

Now if they only sold a kit for the gout in my big toe.

BTW, I almost tried to test it on the bike with the cam chain tensioner off.. stopped myself just in time.