Cleaning up wires

[Guest]

Working on making my 82 GS1100GLK into a bobber ( I know a lot of people aren't fans) and looking at cleaning up/getting rid of wires. In theory I would like to make it not as messy and have space somewhat open where fuse box is currently now and maybe put it behind the battery tray? Is there certain wires I can get rid of? Anyone have ideas and pictures?

Thanks

[mmattockx]

I'm no expert on the electrical stuff (Steve can confirm that! ), but there are a number of circuits you don't really need in the loom. Things like the kickstand switch, neutral switch, fuel gauge, the stator leg that is run up through the ignition switch, the self-canceling turn signals, etc. If you pare it down to the bare essentials that will simplify things and make hiding what is left easier.


Mark

[Jmanor]

I'm no expert on the electrical stuff (Steve can confirm that! ), but there are a number of circuits you don't really need in the loom. Things like the kickstand switch, neutral switch, fuel gauge, the stator leg that is run up through the ignition switch, the self-canceling turn signals, etc. If you pare it down to the bare essentials that will simplify things and make hiding what is left easier.


Mark

I am not expert in wiring either, which is why I convinced my step dad to help me (a 37 year and 65 year old tackling this project lol.) Wouldn't I need the N switch so it starts and also the kickstand switch? I can get rid of the fuel gauge wire as I get speedo and tach from Dime City Cycles with no fuel gauge but may go with a bobber tube style fuel gauge. I want to put the wiring and fuse box behind battery tray to clean up sides.

[Steve]

First of all, I want to know about this "1982 GS1100GLK".

There was a GL and a GK, but no GLK.

Wouldn't I need the N switch so it starts and also the kickstand switch?

The neutral light and the sidestand light are just that, LIGHTS. They have nothing to do to control whether your bike starts or runs. One just lets you know the transmission is in neutral, the other one just lets you know your side stand is down.

If you REALLY want to get down to "basic", you can push start the bike, so it doesn't need the starter. There is really no need to ride at night, so you don't need the headlight. (If you ignore the fact that it has been federally-mandated since 01 JAN 1979, before your bike was even made.) As long as you use your hand signals EVERY TIME, you can also eliminate your turn signals and brake light. Yep, to minimize your wiring, you only need a switched source for your ignition.

.

[hannibal]

When you remove the side stand and clutch switch (not a neutral switch AFAIK), you would trick the bike into thinking "all systems go" when you hit the starter.

[Jmanor]

First of all, I want to know about this "1982 GS1100GLK".

There was a GL and a GK, but no GLK.



The neutral light and the sidestand light are just that, LIGHTS. They have nothing to do to control whether your bike starts or runs. One just lets you know the transmission is in neutral, the other one just lets you know your side stand is down.

If you REALLY want to get down to "basic", you can push start the bike, so it doesn't need the starter. There is really no need to ride at night, so you don't need the headlight. (If you ignore the fact that it has been federally-mandated since 01 JAN 1979, before your bike was even made.) As long as you use your hand signals EVERY TIME, you can also eliminate your turn signals and brake light. Yep, to minimize your wiring, you only need a switched source for your ignition.

.

Steve, It's the only one made and I have it. lol. Not sure why I put a K in there.

Will have my dad read the wire diagram and pull the sidestand light but will most likely keep the N light, just in case. I think I may keep the signals, headlight and starter wires. Not a fan of pushing bike. lol.

Going to be a fun project matching up the wires to new gauges. There are a few burnt connectors that we found so they will be replaced with new ones and new wiring.

[geol]

The suggestion to move the fuse box BEHIND the battery box won't seem like a good idea if you start blowing fuses. Much tougher access in that position. Keep in mind that the GL model doesn't have a ton of wiring that is totally unnecessary if you plan on retaining some of the functions that make the bike what it is; like the gear indicator, oil idiot light, high beam indicator, neutral light, etc. If you use an aftermarket speedometer, you can buy one that retains those lights; even in a mini speedometer. The original wires will all have to be used. Other stuff, like turn signals, headlight, stop/running light are sort of a legal requirement most places. I doubt you will find much that is totally unnecessary other than the clutch interlock and things of that sort.

[mmattockx]

The suggestion to move the fuse box BEHIND the battery box won't seem like a good idea if you start blowing fuses. Much tougher access in that position. Keep in mind that the GL model doesn't have a ton of wiring that is totally unnecessary if you plan on retaining some of the functions that make the bike what it is; like the gear indicator, oil idiot light, high beam indicator, neutral light, etc. If you use an aftermarket speedometer, you can buy one that retains those lights; even in a mini speedometer. The original wires will all have to be used. Other stuff, like turn signals, headlight, stop/running light are sort of a legal requirement most places. I doubt you will find much that is totally unnecessary other than the clutch interlock and things of that sort.

Aside from the headlight and taillight everything you listed is not necessary, though I would keep the high beam indicator and oil pressure light even for a stripped down bobber project. OP doesn't want the bike as it is, he wants to make it into something else and that something else doesn't need the unnecessary extra wiring or lights. I do agree with you on the fusebox, burying that seems like a poor idea at best.


Mark