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How does my stator look?

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    How does my stator look?

    Is this just gunk or is it burnt? The bike is an 81 GS450, seemed to run fine before I started the project.




    #2
    If it is not gone already it will be.

    Get a series R/R like SH-775.

    See GS statro in my signature for condensed summary.

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      #3
      Looks normal for an old bike with dirty oil... Just make sure it's not shorted out between the legs. I think that's about all you can do without running it. You maybe can do a resistance test too. Posplayr would know.

      1980 GS1000G - Sold
      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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        #4
        Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
        Looks normal for an old bike with dirty oil... Just make sure it's not shorted out between the legs. I think that's about all you can do without running it. You maybe can do a resistance test too. Posplayr would know.

        Use a Megger at 250V

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          #5
          Thanks Pos. I've been looking through your wiring diagrams and recommendations for a single point ground. I've gotten rid of the side plate so my R/R will be mounted directly to a plate that is welded to the frame. Can I still follow your diagram if I ground the R/R to the mounting bolt or am I going to get ground loop issues? I imagine I would still have the battery negative also meet here, but I would no longer need the frame ground wire.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by dirion View Post
            Thanks Pos. I've been looking through your wiring diagrams and recommendations for a single point ground. I've gotten rid of the side plate so my R/R will be mounted directly to a plate that is welded to the frame. Can I still follow your diagram if I ground the R/R to the mounting bolt or am I going to get ground loop issues? I imagine I would still have the battery negative also meet here, but I would no longer need the frame ground wire.
            You should mount the R/R in rubber. Vibration from direct mount will hasten it's failure.

            If the plate is already welded then the SPG can be on the plate which would be equivalent to the frame and so no additional wire required to the frame. Just mount the B/W ring lug from the harness and the wire to the battery at the SPG which leads to the R/R(-).

            Ground loops are really not the issue, but then that is all explained in the SPG writeups. The SPG actually minimizes the current running between the battery and the R/R thereby reducing any voltage drops between the two.

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