1982 GS1100G Rectifier wiring troubles

[Guest]

Picked up a GS1100G a while back and after doing repairs on battery box I noticed the white connector of the 3 possible connectors on fuse box side was very melted and corroded. Had to cut the connector apart and I was planning on connecting then taping. However I forgot to note the location of each pair and now I have no idea.
From rectifier I have 3 yellow wires, 1 red wire, and 1 ground.
On the other side I have 1 yellow, 1 white with blue, 1 white with red, and a solid red.
I connected red to red and the 3 yellows to the other wires and now once bike is started, the wires are hot and are melting electrical tape causing smoke
Would like to know how to connect these properly. Also Regulator/rectifier is aftermarket.

[JTGS850GL]

Here's a link to the stock wiring diagram for the 1982 GS1100G.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GS1100G_1982_wiring.jpg

You should run the three stator wires directly to the Rectifier/Regulator and avoid the dreaded "headlight loop". That leaves only two wires that would go from the R/R to the harness. The red wire should go to the red wire in the harness and the ground to a suitable ground. That will leave two wires not connected. A Red/White wire and a Green/White in the harness. Those wires simply go up to the headlight bucket and then loop back.

[duaneage]

Follow the three stator wires from the starter cover to the RR to be sure you are running them only to each other. A bad connector will get very hot due to the resistance from corrosion. Replace the connectors with new ones if they look discolored.

[londonboards]

Any sort of melting of the wires that you previously had, was most probably due to bad connectors and grounds somewhere in your wiring. You are going to have to do a complete connector clean up (search on threads here) and install the extra ground loops as suggested. Particularly from the ground starter solenoid connection and the rear tail light loop both directly to the battery. There is a ground wire connected to the battery box which is particularly prone to becoming a bad connection. Make sure there is a wire from the negative terminal to this connection. And connect the ground wire from the rectifier to the ground of the starter solenoid.

Basically you will have to work your way through the Stator Paper (search for the thread).

There are no short cuts only short circuits in this project.

[duaneage]

Eliminate the white box connector. The plastic is of poor quality and the contacts are junk. Replace it with individual connectors. These run cooler and won't pool the heat. Also new contacts are alloy and conduct better.

[NinjaFlying]

Eliminate the white box connector. The plastic is of poor quality and the contacts are junk. Replace it with individual connectors. These run cooler and won't pool the heat. Also new contacts are alloy and conduct better.

I put my multimeter on the battery and it was at over 17 volts, 17.5 at less than 4k so I have since ordered a new regulator/rectifier and I will do solder it up direct. All grounds are connected as well.

[JTGS850GL]

What R/R did you order? I hope you didn't order a stock unit. The best currently available is a Shindengen SH775 series R/R. Requires a different connector and some minor mounting changes but is not prone to failure.

[Lorenzo]

As suggested, this is the regulator, with a glimpse of the wiring;

http://s165.photobucket.com/user/old...010-1.jpg.html

This are the Furukawa connectors:

http://easternbeaver.com/furukawa_3P-250_1028.jpg

furukawa_3P-250_1028.jpg

I would not solder the wires to the faston blades, just crimp 'em firmly in place.
(Each) soldering is going to introduce an --albeit minimal-- voltage drop.

[duaneage]

I've got a few honda kits available as well

[NinjaFlying]

Got the R/R today and hooked it up all is well.