Clutch Switch

[Redman]

Been noticing in recent months that have to have the clutch lever pulled further in to get the starter to go.
In fact, recently I found my self pulling in the clutch, then hitting the starter button, but the starter not going until pulled the clutch lever pulled in furter.
Has been getting worse, and thinking I need to adjust the swtich. I did try to adjust it and it was already all the way in.

Today I pulled in clutch all the way to the grip, and no go, ... had to wiggle the lever to get the starter to go.... okay, better do something about this. (even if wife annoyed with me working on bike.)

Used that trick of loosing the entire lever mechanism loose of bar, so could rotate the entire thing around, so the switch is facing up.


Took it apart, to inspect.

At first I thought the problem was related to what looks like a break or wear area in the middle of those two contacts.

After looking at it for a while .... I realised that the two longer ones are seperate from the two shorter ones. And the two smaller contacts are what the wires are connected to, are what the u-shaped-spring-loaded part makes contact with when lever pulled. The two longer ones have no wires connected.



Ah, here is the problem.
The u-shaped contact thingy has wear areas where glides across the contacts. Looks like worn so deep that not making good contact any more.

Hum... what I did was to file across that u-shapped contact with a file, to take away materail from the contact, so the grooves not so deep. Maybe cant expect that to last too much longer, but works for now. Now makes contact reliabily when lever pulled in most of the way. Do need to get a replacement swtich on order before too long.

Meantime, if it were to fail again.... I can bypass it if need to sometime.

Have seen many posts about this switch, and its various problems. DOnt think I have seen about it wearing the groves, and can make a temporary repair by filing it down.

Preventive maintenance, to reduce the wear, I think, would be to take it apart and use a little bit of that electrical grease, if you want. Maybe like that stuff in the little envelope, that can get at autoparts store, meant for light bulb connectors.

. (and I think this is no different than the front brake switch, although dont have to pull the lever so far... hey, maybe that is the other contacts....)

[Steve]

Nice report, Dave.

Many of us probably have the same grooves, but we don't notice it because our switch is already bypassed.

.

[Redman]

Many of us probably have the same grooves, but we don't notice it because our switch is already bypassed.
.

I assume bypassed because had some difficulty with it.... otherwise I could say "well, then, there should be lots of spares available that aren't being used.... har har har"

[Redman]

Other info



#6 is the Contact Holder. 57465-18601
Have found other pictures and can see it is the black square thing, with the spring and the u-shaped contact.

#7 is the Terminal Base COver. 57481-33010
Have found other pictures of it, and can see is just the plastic oval shaped cover.

Not finding the circuit board with the wiring harness anywhere.

And the microfische for the right hand controls, the brake switch, there are the same two parts.... and also a complete assembly.
Part number 57460-49300.
Sure looks about the same.
But dont know if the functionality is the same.

Anybody know?

.'

[tkent02]

I assume bypassed because had some difficulty with it.... otherwise I could say "well, then, there should be lots of spares available that aren't being used.... har har har"

The difficulty is in having to use the silly switch all the time. The older GSes didn't have it, and you can start them with two hands. Needing three hands to start a motorcycle because some crooked politician thirty five years ago said so is ludicrous.

[Redman]

The difficulty is in having to use the silly switch all the time. ..............

Ah, I understand your point.
WIth the switch bypassed, then can start the bike with one hand. One hand to turn key, then same hand to hit button. So can start bike without holding on, with it in gear and clutch engaged....
I suppose the old rule applys: if it hurts when you do that, dont do that.

But, yah, some legal liability department or some gov'mt department said there were a certain number of cases of someone getting hurt doing that in whatever year, that someone somewhere declared that some feature was required so cant do that.

[Redman]

I am proceeding with the idea that the front brake switch assembly is the same as the clutch switch assembly (and the difference in functionally is accomplished mechanically). Will report back later.

[GSXR7ED]

Thanks Redman. It's been a while but I remember taking the clutch switch apart when I did the MC rebuild on my "T". I bought the new components to replace the aged contacts.


Ed

[Cipher]

I am proceeding with the idea that the front brake switch assembly is the same as the clutch switch assembly (and the difference in functionally is accomplished mechanically). Will report back later.

The switchgear on my bike is identical for the clutch and front brake lever.
I would keep the interlock. You may not be as smart as the big government conspiracy theorists think they are.

[2BRacing]

......u-shaped contact thingy has wear areas where glides across the contacts. Looks like worn so deep that not making good contact any more.



As a temporary fix to make it last longer, you could try filling up those grooves in the u-shaped thingy with solder or silver solder.

[Steve]

Actually, as you suspected in your original post, the wires are connected to the other set of contacts for the brake switch. It is possible to change them if you are pretty decent with a soldering iron.

Let's back up a bit. I know that you need the copper "U". Do you need the circuit board, too? I probably have at least one of each that I can send your way, just let me know what you need.

As tkent noted, the only "problem" that inspired the bypass was inconvenience. I don't know when the switches first appeared, but in the '80/'81 bikes with the "choke" in the middle of the steering stem, you would almost have to use your left hand to hold the clutch, right hand to manipulate the "choke" knob and use your right elbow to bump the starter switch. If you were lucky enough to have a "choke" knob that stayed in place, you could get by with just both hands. It is partly for that reason that I converted the "choke" activator on my '80 850 to one from an '82, which is under the left handgrip.

.

[TeamDar]

I have by-passed the clutch switch on every bike that I have owned and never regretted it....

[Redman]

..
...
As a temporary fix to make it last longer, you could try filling up those grooves in the u-shaped thingy with solder or silver solder.

Hi 2B. (well, at least one of the Bs)

I did think of soldering, but thought would not last long.
Also thought of bringing into work and brazzing, but thought would just melt the thing, at least if I was doing it, that is probably what would happen.
Silver solder..... probably better idea.

[Redman]

Also found that the stock "Holder" part number is still available for about 5 bucks, (plus shipping of course) and that seems to include the black square part and the spring and the u-shapped contact.

Also found other confirmation that the front brake swtich assembly (called out on that microfiche page) is the same as this clutch switch, and some fine GSR members have pointed out the same.
I was thinking the brake switch could be different than the clutch switch in that the brake switch needs to come on real early in the travel of the lever, and the clutch switch needs to come on more toward the end of travel of the lever.
Was not till later I thought that the switches themselves could be the same, and the different functionality be accomplished by the mechanics of the lever, duhhhh.

Found a aftermarket complete assembly switch for something like $12 (including shippping).
Will see how that goes. (after all, it may not need to last another 35 years and 75 thousand miles.)
Will report more after receive it.

.

[Redman]

Actually, as you suspected in your original post, the wires are connected to the other set of contacts for the brake switch. It is possible to change them if you are pretty decent with a soldering iron.

Let's back up a bit. I know that you need the copper "U". Do you need the circuit board, too? I probably have at least one of each that I can send your way, just let me know what you need.

As tkent noted, the only "problem" that inspired the bypass was inconvenience. I don't know when the switches first appeared, but in the '80/'81 bikes with the "choke" in the middle of the steering stem, you would almost have to use your left hand to hold the clutch, right hand to manipulate the "choke" knob and use your right elbow to bump the starter switch. If you were lucky enough to have a "choke" knob that stayed in place, you could get by with just both hands. It is partly for that reason that I converted the "choke" activator on my '80 850 to one from an '82, which is under the left handgrip.

.

Now I see this.
Thanks Steve.
Yah, your spares laying around could probably be used here. Thanks.
But have already ordered replacement. Should have Tuesday or so. If that doesnt work, I will abuse your generosity.
Lets see, I bring bike to your place...? or you ship parts to my place...? You have much better working shop area.

I see the stock/original one has two sets of contacts.
I see the aftermarket one has one set of contacts on one end (and some sort of guide on other).
I was assuming that the mechanics of the clutch lever verses the mechanics of the brake lever are different to provide the different functionality of the switch.
Or maybe need to turn the circuit board the other way,,, but, oh, then wiring harness would stick out the other way... oh, no problem... other switch is on other side anyway.... but turn it around and move to other side would then still be sticking out wrong way.... um, er, ah.... oh, move to other side then dont have to turn around ....

Yah, I had 80 850G, and yah, the holding the clutch and pulling choke at same time was a trouble if choke would slide back down, (ah, the 3rd hand situation)
But some fine GSR member (possibly you) mentioned about adjusting that collar, and, hey, it worked.

I also had a 70s KZ400 (first bike), and was more than once I hit the starter while was in gear with clutch out and not holding on with both hands, and it jerked ahead and about fell over.