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Another tidbit that might help with a good, properly-crimped connection is a bit counter-intuitive.
Do NOT twist the bare wire ends before inserting into the connector.
That article talked about a "gas tight crimp", which would require that all the strands are straight and paralell. If you twist them, there WILL be spaces around the strands when they are gripped by the straight sides of the connectors.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Originally posted by Steve View PostAnother tidbit that might help with a good, properly-crimped connection is a bit counter-intuitive.
Do NOT twist the bare wire ends before inserting into the connector.
That article talked about a "gas tight crimp", which would require that all the strands are straight and paralell. If you twist them, there WILL be spaces around the strands when they are gripped by the straight sides of the connectors.
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But you also have to consider that many of those who are new to soldering usually subscribe to the drag racer's philosophy:
"If some is good, more is better, too much is enough."
As previously mentioned, solder tends to wick up the wire, past the strain relief, which causes other problems. I tend to agree with a bit of solder, but I try to keep it minimal and as close as possible to the tip of the wire. Solder is not intended as the mechanical bonding agent in a connection. The crimp should be the mechanical connection, solder is basically just a sealant that keeps out corrosion.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
-
Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35608
- Torrance, CA
Crimped terminals are the way to go assuming you have the proper crimping pliers that roll over the crimp ears. If not, solder away. It might be best to pre-tin the wires to keep the heat low and assure the solder doesn't wick up the strands too far. If you do solder cleaning off the old flux is advised since it can mess up the electrical properties of the joint if left uncleaned.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
Comment
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Originally posted by Steve View PostBut you also have to consider that many of those who are new to soldering usually subscribe to the drag racer's philosophy:
"If some is good, more is better, too much is enough."
As previously mentioned, solder tends to wick up the wire, past the strain relief, which causes other problems. I tend to agree with a bit of solder, but I try to keep it minimal and as close as possible to the tip of the wire. Solder is not intended as the mechanical bonding agent in a connection. The crimp should be the mechanical connection, solder is basically just a sealant that keeps out corrosion.
.
Comment
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