No electricals

[Exponent]

I have a similar problem as posted by Bearjew:

Originally Posted by Bearjew

Ok. I found the issue? I was outside testing the wires, cables, fuses etc. And noticed power in second fuse from the bottom but nonever coming out. While testing my fuse ends I touched my tester end to the fuse from the wire and everything lit up. It appears that either the holder was loose or when the fuse blew it loosened the holder? I don't know but I took some pliers and tightened everything up a little and everything is good again. So it blew two fuses and the connection was loose. Thanks for all the help guys.



Hi there

This is the closest I could get to the issue I am dealing with. In short - the electricals on the bike just quit. When I turn the ignition key to on - there is nothing. Battery is fine. There is current in the 2nd fuse from the bottom - but in none of the other fuses. When I bridge the solenoid the engine turns over.

I do not have the fuse as show in the picture posted by Bearjew.



Is there anything I can check? I am a 1st time wrencher - so any help will be greatly appreciated, but please make the advice as detailed as possible. I feel that it should be something that connects or is common to the top 3 fuses but just cannot fathom what it could be from the wiring diagram.

I have checked that I have the correct wiring diagram.

[JTGS850GL]

First off you want to verify you have battery voltage at both sides of the 15 amp main fuse. The second one from the bottom. Then you want to verify that you have voltage when the ignition switch is turned on. That should provide juice to the right side of the top three fuses. If no juice then your problem is between the main fuse, ignition switch and return path to the fuse box. If you have voltage on the right side of the three top fuses with the ignition on, then check the left side of the top three fuses. If you have no lights or ignition, then the problem is most likely before there or a main connector that's come apart under the gas tank.

[Redman]

Ex,

You are going to need a voltmeter to troubleshoot this problem, and then do as stated in JTGS's posting above.

About the only thing you can do without a voltmeter is to wiggle around the fuses and the connector on the fuse block and the connectors in the wiring harness.

One more test you can do, just to find some information: Try turning the key all the way to the park position. That puts main power to the tail light. If the tail light lights up, well, then you know you have at least the main power. Doesnt help you fix anything.

You really need a voltmeter to check to see if have voltage at which fuses, let us know, then we can go from there.
Or maybe just a test light probe.

.

[Redman]

If this is true, you do have voltage (i assume you were measuring voltage not current) at the main fuse.....
That was your posting correct? or was it from what you were copying?

If you have power at the main fuse: the red wire goes to the ignition swtich, when turn key on the orange wire brings power back to the top 3 fuses.
If it doesnt then maybe the ignition swtich is at fault, or probelm with connector in wiring harness or the connector on the back of the ignition switch or maybe inside the fuse block.

Need voltmeter to check where you have the voltage, and where you are loosing it.
Start at the fuse block. THe big red wire is the power comming in. THe smaller red wire is from the main fuse going to the ignition switch. THe orange wire is the power coming back from the ignition switch.

If you can look up from underneath the ignition switch, you can see the connector, and then can test with meter at the red wire and then at the orange wire.
You can also see how to get the connector apart. And then take out the ignition switch.

.

[Exponent]

First off you want to verify you have battery voltage at both sides of the 15 amp main fuse. The second one from the bottom. Then you want to verify that you have voltage when the ignition switch is turned on. That should provide juice to the right side of the top three fuses. If no juice then your problem is between the main fuse, ignition switch and return path to the fuse box. If you have voltage on the right side of the three top fuses with the ignition on, then check the left side of the top three fuses. If you have no lights or ignition, then the problem is most likely before there or a main connector that's come apart under the gas tank.

Hi

I have tested the left and right side of the fuse box. Here is my finding
Reading Left and Right.jpg

What does it indicate if there is a reading on one side of the main fuse only?

[Exponent]

Hi Redman

I am going to try your suggestions now and will have results sortly

[Exponent]

If this is true, you do have voltage (i assume you were measuring voltage not current) at the main fuse.....
That was your posting correct? or was it from what you were copying?

If you have power at the main fuse: the red wire goes to the ignition swtich, when turn key on the orange wire brings power back to the top 3 fuses.
If it doesnt then maybe the ignition swtich is at fault, or probelm with connector in wiring harness or the connector on the back of the ignition switch or maybe inside the fuse block.

Need voltmeter to check where you have the voltage, and where you are loosing it.
Start at the fuse block. THe big red wire is the power comming in. THe smaller red wire is from the main fuse going to the ignition switch. THe orange wire is the power coming back from the ignition switch.

If you can look up from underneath the ignition switch, you can see the connector, and then can test with meter at the red wire and then at the orange wire.
You can also see how to get the connector apart. And then take out the ignition switch.

.

Hi Redman

Tried the following - ignition key to park - the back light does not light up.

Tested at the ignition switch (the red and the orange) nothing.

Had a look at all the connectors - none seem lose.

I guess if it is not the ignition that is faulty, I will have to trace current in the harness. I will have a look at the ignition first.


I will be away for 2 days - so will get started on the ignition when I am back.

Thanks guys for all the help so far.

Wishing all here on the forum a wonderful 2017.

[Steve]

What does it indicate if there is a reading on one side of the main fuse only?

To me, it's painfully obvious that you have a bad fuse.

Since you say you are a "first-time wrencher", it might not be quite so obvious, but it should not be hard to figure out.

Look at the fuse to make sure it is the proper rating. It should be a 15-amp fuse. As a quick test, you can take the bottom fuse and put it in place of the MAIN fuse. It is supposed to be a 10-amp fuse, so might not last when you turn the key on, but it should at least give a quick indication. It might last as long as you don't use the turn signals or brake light.

.

[JTGS850GL]

First off, let's get the terminology correct. You're measuring voltage, not current. That's what you should be measuring.

If you don't have 12V on the red wire going to the ignition switch then the problem is between the fuse box and the switch wires. If you have +12V at the output of the main fuse but no voltage at the switch, then you have an open in the harness or at the fuse box. Check the fuse box red output wire and follow it to a bullet connector. There should be 12V there. If not, then your problem is within the fuse box. If you have voltage at that connector, then verify you have it on both sides of the bullet connector. If not then there you go. If so, then follow the ignition switch wires back to the harness. There's a connector there. Verify you have voltage on both sides of the red wire of that connector. Disconnect the connector and verify that it's clean and well connected. High resistance from corrosion generates a lot of heat and tends to melt the connector in the process.

[Redman]

.
.
What does it indicate if there is a reading on one side of the main fuse only?

Seems to show that have power comming in (the bigger red wire) to the fuse block and going to both the aux fuse (bottom) and the Mainfuse (next to bottom). And have power going out the aux fuse, and do not have power going out the Main fuse... like the main fuse is blown open or is a bad connection inside the fuse block at the main fuse. Pull the main fuse and check that fuse itself with the ohm/resistance/continuity setting. SHould read the same as touching the two meter leads together. If reads the same as holding the leads apart, that is the fuse is blown/burnt/melted open.

(should have added your voltage notes on opposite sides of the diagram, the red wire on the right of the diagram is the power comming in to both main and aux fuse, the red wire on left is the wire out from the main fuse going to the ignition swtich). The aux fus poweres the screw terminals on the bottom of the fuse block.

.

[Redman]

Hi Redman

Tried the following - ignition key to park - the back light does not light up.

Tested at the ignition switch (the red and the orange) nothing.

Had a look at all the connectors - none seem lose.

.............

"Tried the following - ignition key to park - the back light does not light up."
Which is what would happen if had no main fuse power.... which is what you have found in your other testing.
If you had gotten tail light to light, then would have known that did have main fuse power, and your problem is not the main fuse power.
But your other testing has found that you dont have main fuse power.

"Tested at the ignition switch (the red and the orange) nothing."
Yep...., no power out of main fuse, so no power to the ignition switch. .
But good that you have become familiar with those wires there at the iginition swtich.
Red is power from the main fuse.
Orange is power out to the top 3 fuses.
Two other wires are the wire out to the tail light and the other is the normal tail light circuit.
See, how when you work on one thing, you start to learn more that can be used for other things.

Anyway, so we now, with your voltage reading notes, we have found that the problem is that you don't have main fuse power.

So, lets go back to previous post. .....
Check the main fuse.

Note: The main fuse is the 4th one down, next to the last one. SHould be a 15 amp (all others should be 10s).

And maybe getting ahead of you here, but if main fuse is bad, and you replace it, and it blows immeadiatly even with ignition key is off..... then that is probably a bad R/R, try unplugging the R/R and replace the main fuse again.

If your 15 amp fuse is blown, and you dont have a 15amp spare, you can do like Steve said, pull the aux fuse and use that in the Main postition, and, I will add, you could also pull the 10 amp headlight fuse, then the 10amp in the main will survive longer. Again, this is just a test, and to get the bike running again. If you do want to go down the road, yah, put the headlight fuse back but dont use high beam and dont use turnsignals and dont use horn to try to keep from overloading the 10amp main fuse that should be a 15 amp.

If you dont have anything connnected to the screw ternimals on the bottom of the fuse block, then there is no need for the 10amp Aux fuse, just concider it to be a spare.

Also, look inside the back-inside side of the fuse block cover, there may be a spare or two fuses in there. (at least on the 82 and after type with the blade fuses there are).

Talk to you later in a few days.

Happy New Year.

[JTGS850GL]

Just replace the fuse and you'll be good to go unless you still have a short. Replace it with a 15amp fuse.

[Dre]

I just encountered a big problem. redid some electricals on my 83 GS1100GK and everytbing was good till a direct + wire touched the engin by accident. Now nothing lights up and all my fuses are intact. What did I just do? Blown relay?

[JTGS850GL]

I'd start a new thread on your problem. With that said, how did you verify that all your fuses are good?

[Dre]

Visually? can they be blown and not show?