Blinker issues

[Guest]

I have a 1981 gs850gl. I bought some new blinkers with regular bulbs (not LED) but they will not blink, just stay on. Thought it might be the relay so i bought a new one, didn't turn on at all. Then i bought a different one, same issue, didn't turn on. put the stock relay and stock blinkers back on and they blink properly. I'm pretty sure the new blinkers just don't have enough resistance to trigger the stock relay flasher. But my question is, where do i get a relay that will work with the new blinkers?

[mmattockx]

Get a solid state flasher unit from an auto parts store, they aren't load sensitive. Maybe $10 or so.


Mark

[Steve]

You are going to have to make a few decisions.

First: Which thread are you going to follow? I see you posted this exact question at least twice.

Second: Your new signals probably have TOO MUCH resistance, rather than not enough. I am guessing that you might have installed some "mini" signals that have smaller bulbs that simply do not draw enough current to trigger the thermal flasher unit.

Third: You can get a "timer-based" electronic flasher at the auto parts store, but you WILL have to re-wire the socket for the flasher, AND you will lose the self-cancel function.

If you are good with electronics, there is a way to re-wire the socket, install a micro-relay, install an electronic flasher and retain your self-cancelling signals. This mod is the same thing you would have to do if you install LED signals and want to keep the self-cancel.

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[buckshot1718]

And that was what i was afraid of. I'm not so great with electronics so i have no idea where to start in re-wiring the socket. Also, i have no idea what the self cancel function is.

[Steve]

The self-cancel function is what turns your turn signal off when you travel over 10 mph for over 10 seconds.

That is, assuming all the parts are still working.

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[buckshot1718]

Gotcha. I already have the electronic flasher, So what do i need to do to rewire the socket?

[Steve]

What you need to do will depend on which flasher you got. Some will work with very minimal changes, others will require a start from scratch.

Consult the wiring diagram, make sure the pins on your flasher match up with the function of the wires feeding them. Your flasher terminals are likely labelled "B" for battery, "E" for earth and "L" for load. The B terminal needs to be matched to the orange/green wire. The L terminal needs to be matched with the light blue wire. The wire that goes to the E terminal needs to be disconnected and re-routed to a ground. If you do not ever intend to re-enable your self-cancel feature, you can just cut the wire a few inches from the flasher connector and extend the wire to a ground point.

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[buckshot1718]

A ground point being the frame of the bike?

[Steve]

Yes, that would work.

Which flasher did you get? I believe the correct one is EP34.
The EP36 looks just like it, but has the power and ground terminals reversed.

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[buckshot1718]

The flasher i have does not say whether it is either of those. But the "B" and the "L" are in the same positions as the stock flasher. The only difference between the two is the third terminal on the stock has a "C" while the third terminal on the new flasher has an "E" for the ground. So what im getting from this is that the wiring system is set up specifically for a thermal flasher, which is why i cant just plug in a electronic flasher. But is it possible to just buy a thermal flasher that can handle the smaller turn signals? And also i understand what the "B, L, and E" symbolize on the electronic flasher but what the heck is the "C" on the stock flasher?

[Steve]

The C is for Control. That is the wire that the control unit used to control whether the flasher worked or not. Just cut the wire a few inches from the connector, use some solder and heat shrink to add a wire long enough to get to a good ground point and you will have connected your new flasher's E terminal to Earth (ground).

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