• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Clueless electrical member testing R/R diode

Carter Turk

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
So I'm guilty of watching a youtube video on electrical motorcycle troubleshooting.

Since my bike never starts when I attempt to start it (SC snatching) it's difficult to test the charging system when increasing rpm's.

On my last ride the battery voltage was 12.83 at rest. When I returned after a 70 mile ride, it was 8.63. Headlight was barely on, but the bike still idled at red lights. I trickle charged another battery and put that in for the ride on Sunday in the reverse direction. Same deal, but the battery was around 11.6 afterwards.

So I tried turning the multimeter to the diode test to see if the RR is showing anything. Never knew where this symbol was on the multi-meter or what it looked like. Have no idea what the numbers really mean, just that the 3 stator lead #'s were close to the same. When the negative probe touches the negative lead and the red probe touches the 3 stator lead the # 1 appears?
When I put the positive (red probe) to negative lead on R/R and use the negative probe on the 3 stator leads, I'm getting a consistent # of around 546.
When the negative probe touches red wire coming out of R/R I see a larger number 972. I tried 2 R/R's of unknown history, with one on my not often used bike with the Caltric Stator I mentioned in another electrical post and one I have as a spare, both look like stock 1150 R/R's with the spade leads coming out. Actually the spare has 5 wires coming out, no spades, but similar shape. All stator leads were around the same # 540-550ish, not sure that's an acceptable number or not.

I tried some sort of Ohm test on the stator leads, but can't explain what I did, something with touching one probe to ground and touching the other to the 3 leads, then, touching both probes to the 3 stator leads one at a time. Not sure what Ohm setting to use on the multimeter it has- 20M, 200k, 2k, 200. It's an Innova 3310.

Ordering a new stator and R/R, but was trying to understand what's at fault. Me, then what or both.
 
Hope the RR you ordered is a Series type. Did you read the sticky note at the top of this section?
 
The diode test will tell you if the diodes are working in one direction as these should. Most R/R that I tested will give you numbers somewhere at .3-.5 and in the other direction you should get nothing. Your numbers should all be close to each other as say one leg gives you .455 the next .458 and the third .454. All three are in the same ball park and in the .3-.5 range. Testing the other lead should do the same, but don't be surprised if the numbers are higher or lower yet still fall in the .3-.5 range, such as .535, .533 .538. My multimeter a Bluepoint DMSC683MP and gives me an OL in the opposite direction. If I get a number on any of the diodes instead of an OL, the diode is bad and the R/R is junk. One bad apple as it were. Also in diode mode, mine doesn't give you an ohm option, it's digital and picks what it thinks it needs. There is a range button, but I haven't had to force it in a range, that may be called for in a manual.
 
I would not bother trying to ohm out the R/R. The best way to check whether the bike is charging properly is to start at the stator and measure the voltage there will the bike running, as per the service manual. If that checks out fine, reconnect the stator to the R/R (bypassing the loop up through the harness if you haven't already) and test the voltage coming out of the R/R, also with the bike running. I believe you'll be looking for something like 14 V @ 5000 rpm, but don't quote me on that. The service manual will say for sure.

This only takes a few minutes and will tell you exactly what the issue is, instead of just throwing parts at it.

Also, posplayr has a charging system quick test somewhere around here that will help narrow down the cause efficiently as well.
 
Last edited:
Actually the best way to diagnose is to IGNORE THE MANUAL and follow Stator pages. There have been various refinements that are not captured in the OEM manual.
http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php

Because people can get lost in the details of the stator pages, the Quick test allows members here to keep the OP focused.
http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers3.php

Even your suggestion to start at the stator is flawed because there is no affirmative test that the stator is absolutely working especially the leg to leg tests. The leg to groudn tests have been demonstrated to be far more reliable that leg to leg which is all the manual describes.

eil said:
I would not bother trying to ohm out the R/R. The best way to check whether the bike is charging properly is to start at the stator and measure the voltage there will the bike running, as per the service manual. If that checks out fine, reconnect the stator to the R/R (bypassing the loop up through the harness if you haven't already) and test the voltage coming out of the R/R, also with the bike running. I believe you'll be looking for something like 14 V @ 5000 rpm, but don't quote me on that. The service manual will say for sure.

This only takes a few minutes and will tell you exactly what the issue is, instead of just throwing parts at it.

Also, posplayr has a charging system quick test somewhere around here that will help narrow down the cause efficiently as well.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Start with posplayr's quick test - report all 6 results on here for clues

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...System-QUICK-TEST/page2&p=1272192#post1272192

to test stator, disconnect the 3 leads from from the r/r. Set your innova meter on 200 volts AC... Run engine at about 4000rpm. Put meter probes across two stator leads at a time - you want about 60+ volts AC from all combination. Then while still running,stick one probe on any stator lead and other probe on good bike ground.... best to see almost no volts displayed on meter (this sorta indicates that stator is insulated from ground and hasn't shorted out.)
 
Thanks for the replies. I guess it's sorta like starting an essay.

I think the best option for me is to attempt the tests on the bike that starts.
I'll try this on the ES.
 
Carter Turk said:
Thanks for the replies. I guess it's sorta like starting an essay.

I think the best option for me is to attempt the tests on the bike that starts.
I'll try this on the ES.
Click to expand...

While there is uncertainty in trying to diagnose the electrical system, a scientific approach to deal with that uncertainty is contained in the referenced links. The only way to develop an alternate opinion(essay) is to ignore the science.
 
posplayr said:
While there is uncertainty in trying to diagnose the electrical system, a scientific approach to deal with that uncertainty is contained in the referenced links. The only way to develop an alternate opinion(essay) is to ignore the science.
Click to expand...

I was making the comparison that writing the first word is difficult.

12.93V at rest, key off, after overnight trickle charge
11.82V key on
Saw a # in the 10's at one point, attempting to start on pri for a few moments, then checking volts
Engine on, around 12V at idle
5000rpms = 13.32V
Stator (Caltric a few months old) @ 75 V @5000 rpm's all 3 legs (I think?)
I forgot to check the ground to stator.
 
Went back out to garage and tested the ground.
The frame vs. engine ground seemed to change the readings. .
I put the negative probe to the frame at a non rusty spot, red on each leg at idle
I'm seeing .1 on two legs and .0 on the other.
The multi-meter was still on ACV-200
 
Carter Turk said:
Went back out to garage and tested the ground.
The frame vs. engine ground seemed to change the readings. .
I put the negative probe to the frame at a non rusty spot, red on each leg at idle
I'm seeing .1 on two legs and .0 on the other.
The multi-meter was still on ACV-200
Click to expand...

Side note on the ground - I had a small issue even after replacing my R/R. I connect all floating grounds to hard grounds to battery. By floating, anything that is not welded to the frame/bolted to engine...like the plate my R/R sits on that had grounds for EVERYTHING screwed to it...not making contact to the actual frame due to ITS NOT CONNECT TO THE FRAME EXCEPT BY A LITTLE SLIP ON PIECE... new ground wiring and making sure everything had a good path made all the difference in the world. Sounds overkill but I'm with them on the ground issues and the importance of a good ground system. Not a bad idea to replace old wiring all together.
 
Carter Turk said:
I was making the comparison that writing the first word is difficult.

12.93V at rest, key off, after overnight trickle charge
11.82V key on
Saw a # in the 10's at one point, attempting to start on pri for a few moments, then checking volts
Engine on, around 12V at idle
5000rpms = 13.32V
Stator (Caltric a few months old) @ 75 V @5000 rpm's all 3 legs (I think?)
I forgot to check the ground to stator.
Click to expand...
One of the most important checks is a comparison of voltage at 2500 and 5000 rpm.
 
Ok, I did a couple of things wrong then.
13.3 V at 5K doesn't sound very good regardless right?
Doubt it was much more than at idle @2.5k
 
Carter Turk said:
Ok, I did a couple of things wrong then.
13.3 V at 5K doesn't sound very good regardless right?
Doubt it was much more than at idle @2.5k
Click to expand...

If V @ 2.5K RPM is higher than V @ 5K RPM it usually means the connections are dirty.

Do do you have a bad stator or bad connections?
 
posplayr said:
If V @ 2.5K RPM is higher than V @ 5K RPM it usually means the connections are dirty.

Do do you have a bad stator or bad connections?
Click to expand...

The volts were lower at 2.5K

I ordered an electrosport stator, and a Honda shunt ("the horror"), but was curious what the electrical gurus have to say about this rotor chip.
 
posplayr said:
it looks damaged
Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing out that indeed one of the magnets is damaged.

Will it still function is the question, maybe no one can answer, until I do the proper tests.

Maybe the other poster with no photo has similar damage?

Still waiting on new stator.
 
Carter Turk said:
Thanks for pointing out that indeed one of the magnets is damaged.

Will it still function is the question, maybe no one can answer, until I do the proper tests.

Maybe the other poster with no photo has similar damage?

Still waiting on new stator.
Click to expand...

With a set of precise measurements you might have been able to deduce whether anything was still serviceable. At this point you seem committed to just replacing everything.
 
posplayr said:
With a set of precise measurements you might have been able to deduce whether anything was still serviceable. At this point you seem committed to just replacing everything.
Click to expand...

I'm not anywhere near as precise as you, hence all the electrical postings on my part.
Hopefully I can do the tests when the bike starts from a stand still.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top