Possible LED headlight insert for my 5 x 7 headlight....thoughts?

[posplayr]

I will throw the Cyclops in the mix for retrofit H4 bulbs

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?231754-Cyclops-3800-H4-LED-Headlamp-Bulb&highlight=cyclopse

I compared the Cyclops 3800 to an H-4 Halogen and 55W HID,

[Steve]

I will throw the Cyclops in the mix for retrofit H4 bulbs ...

Have you seen that Cyclops now offers a 7000 lumen bulb?

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[posplayr]

Have you seen that Cyclops now offers a 7000 lumen bulb?

.

They are pushing the power envelope to 50W.

Technical Specs:
- Color Temperature 5500K
- Power Draw: 25 Watts on Low / 50 Watts on High
- Emitters Lifespan: 30,000 hours
(Do not expect this bulb to last longer than your vehicle)
- 12 Month Warranty

[Cassius086]

I just installed ADV Monster's H4 Rev 3 20w/30w in my 2002 KLR factory headlight housing. Doing a few other thing as well, but when I get things buttoned up, and get to do a proper road test, I'll post some photos. It does have a nice, clean cut off at the top of the beam. Light temp/color is 5700K.

[80GS850GBob]

Have you seen that Cyclops now offers a 7000 lumen bulb?

.

Is that quad emitters? ...or two low and one high emitter? {pics/specs don't tell count} Spacers are a nice touch for adjustment.
I'd still like to see a 4 sided array for better light dispersion than the majority two sided renditions available lately.....if it's a retro-fit bulb. I have seen a few three sided, but not in Cree emitters yet.{mind you, I haven't searched all that hard}

[Steve]

Having a four-sided array would be good for dispersion, but what about focus? The farther the emmiters get away from the central, pin-point location of the tungsten filament in the original bulb, the worse the pattern gets out on the road. Spacers will move the bulb in and out of the reflector, but nothing will move the arrays closer to the center, where the filament was.

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[the schwartz]

. DO NOT USE LED BULBS unless you have replaced the R/R with a Series Regulator. The loss of load from a LED that typically draws about 25 watts instead of about 55 watts can fool the old Shunt type R/R into overcharging the system.

This is what I was looking for. Thanks. Also darnit.