Stator/Regulator replacement

[posplayr]

So in this case im probably gonna need a replacement?

You should do the test, but not trust the R/R for any longevity.

[allojohn]

Get a voltmeter and do the tests.

[buckshot1718]

ill pickup a voltmeter today and report back later.
Thanks guys

[Steve]

The simple reason why you should not use a running vehicle to jump start the bike is that the car (truck, whatever) might be putting out voltage that is just above the set point for the bike's regulator. It will then try to regulate the voltage. When it regulates the voltage, the car will see that as a load and will compensate to keep the voltage up, because an alternator can adjust output without changing speed.

The bike's regulator is rated for about 25 amps. My van has a 150 amp alternator. Guess which one will win.

.

[posplayr]

The simple reason why you should not use a running vehicle to jump start the bike is that the car (truck, whatever) might be putting out voltage that is just above the set point for the bike's regulator. It will then try to regulate the voltage. When it regulates the voltage, the car will see that as a load and will compensate to keep the voltage up, because an alternator can adjust output without changing speed.

The bike's regulator is rated for about 25 amps. My van has a 150 amp alternator. Guess which one will win.

.

Had not thought of the alternator set point being higher that teh regulator set point which certainly could cause issues if teh cables are good and clean(well connected). The main thing I focus on is called "Load Dump", where very high voltages can occur when connecting and disconnecting from inductive load sources/loads.

This is a major issue in teh Automotive world (and a major complexity in the SSPB design) ; you basically need to be able to handle +/-100V spikes of 10 msec duration.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump

[buckshot1718]

So I did the test, here's how it came out.
At rest:12.1v
With key on for 10 sec: 9.7v
After this I tried to start it but it had about enough juice to turn over once. So I jumped it.
While it was running at 1500 rpm: 13.6v
2500 rpm: 13.1v
5000 rpm: 13.1v
After I killed it:12.8v

[posplayr]

Battery needs to be charged. If you can pull the battery out( or at least remove the battery terminals), use jumper cables to attach to your car battery in parallel and top it up. Don't let the loose wires short to the battery cause they went (oops).
It seems to be charging some, but I suspect you have very dirty conenctions.
I have no idea what we are looking at (zero pictures provided)
So I would do a basic cleaning using Naval jelly and Deoxit for prep on all connections to the R/R and to the battery.
re do the test.

[buckshot1718]

Its a pretty clean bike for its age. Most everything is original though so the connections probably do need some cleaning. Ill probably get to it this weekend. So what do i do if i charge the battery and clean connections and it doesn't change?

[buckshot1718]

Also id like to add. After i shut the bike down, i waited about 5 minutes then tried to start it again. She didn't have it, i had to jump it again. Dont know if that gives you any more info or not.

[posplayr]

Also id like to add. After i shut the bike down, i waited about 5 minutes then tried to start it again. She didn't have it, i had to jump it again. Dont know if that gives you any more info or not.

It provides fodder for guessing

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?237763-Recommended-Products-for-Preparing-Electrical-Connenctions&highlight=contact+cleaner

[allojohn]

Its a pretty clean bike for its age. Most everything is original though so the connections probably do need some cleaning. Ill probably get to it this weekend. So what do i do if i charge the battery and clean connections and it doesn't change?

This all may seem very tedious but unfortunately it's necessary. You have a 36 yr old machine and that quick fix you're looking for doesn't exist. Take it step by step and eventually the problems will be behind you.

[wymple]

I think, 1st, that you need a battery. Fully charge and leave it sit overnight unhooked, then see what your readings are. Should show voltage at least in the middle 12 range. Hook it back up and if it drops right away with the key on it's junk.

[buckshot1718]

Battery needs to be charged. If you can pull the battery out( or at least remove the battery terminals), use jumper cables to attach to your car battery in parallel and top it up. Don't let the loose wires short to the battery cause they went (oops).
It seems to be charging some, but I suspect you have very dirty conenctions.
I have no idea what we are looking at (zero pictures provided)
So I would do a basic cleaning using Naval jelly and Deoxit for prep on all connections to the R/R and to the battery.
re do the test.

Alright so i got a brand new battery, charged it. Heres how it came out this time.
At rest: 12.6
With key on for 10 sec: 11.52
At 1500rmp: 13.1
At 2500rpm: 13.7
At 5000rpm: 13.4
After off: 12.8
I checked and cleaned all of the grounds. I even added a ground directly to battery(-). I cleaned the positive connects that connect to battery. Any other connections i should check?

[posplayr]

Alright so i got a brand new battery, charged it. Heres how it came out this time.
At rest: 12.6
With key on for 10 sec: 11.52
At 1500rmp: 13.1
At 2500rpm: 13.7
At 5000rpm: 13.4
After off: 12.8
I checked and cleaned all of the grounds. I even added a ground directly to battery(-). I cleaned the positive connects that connect to battery. Any other connections i should check?

The drop off between 2500 and 5000 indicates you have dirty connections still. Did you clean the fusebox and every connection between the battery and the R/R?

A Single point ground (SPG) is recommended. You can do the Phase A statro pages to measure your drops to see if they are on positive or negative side of the battery

[80GS850GBob]

These old bikes, like any other old vehicle, need a good going thru after sitting and/or use. To avoid that, as the hassle it might seem up front, is to most likely include issues down the road....away from home. Spend the time at home cleaning up crummy/cruddy connections...frayed wires, old batteries, loose connectors...will give you a far more enjoyable ride down the road. Pay now - play later...
These bikes can have some known charging issues due to bad connections and the design of the "full on" nature of said system - bad connections give the system the false lead of need for more current, which means more heat and eventual burnout. The alternative is to go to a series system which will work in needed stages {of sorts}- but you still need good connections either way you choose.
This is why the folks here are asking you to do the given rpm tests and see where the problem lies....voltage drops are where the connections are bad. The only way to find these is by checking.
I'll add this and then get off the soap box....to swap in a new battery, new stator and new reg and still have bad connections, is not going to solve any problems for anyone. Remove all and any weak links and your chain is then strong...to check is to know.