Stator/Regulator replacement

[posplayr]

This is what the fuse box looks like after you pop off the back. It is best to clean with something line Naval jelly, then flow solder into the crimps. Prep with DeOxit of similar.

[buckshot1718]

20170307_175946.jpg
This the fuse box when i opened it. I cleaned what i could but as you can see it was in pretty good shape.

[posplayr]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]50081[/ATTACH]
This the fuse box when i opened it. I cleaned what i could but as you can see it was in pretty good shape.

I don't mind you taking it apart again if it is not clean. We are not talking about soap bubbles clean.

[Blue Falcon]

did I miss the stator check on this one? didn't see any AC readings posted, but it sounds like the stator is putting out.

ok, new battery, checked connections and took some running readings, all I can see so far.

This is why I keep a cheapo "universal" R/R handy, easy to swap in/out and see if it is the R/R.

I'd say you either have a bad R/R, you are bleeding voltage or possibly both.. 30+year old wires, weak insulation, wire is cheap and if you have the time.....

even though we are dealing with low voltage, think of voltage as "electrical pressure"... envision a water hose, the hose is the insulator, the water is conductor, the GPM is the current and the PSI is the voltage, if the GPM stays the same but you increase the PSI...the pressure has to be relieved somewhere, there has to be leakage/bleed off somewhere and old insulation makes it easy. Try running the bike in the dark and look for a small spark/glow if you are bored.


Unless you want to spend just as much time setting up to do an insulation test (you would need an insulation tester $$$). It's easier and takes just as much time to replace the wiring and be done with any questions.

spend the $15 on a cheapo R/R and if that solves your issues, then spend the money on a good one and keep the cheap one as an emergency back up or a tester.

question... did you pull the R/R off and look at the back for any burn marks or obvious signs of overheat? Just curious.

[posplayr]

did I miss the stator check on this one? didn't see any AC readings posted, but it sounds like the stator is putting out.

ok, new battery, checked connections and took some running readings, all I can see so far.

This is why I keep a cheapo "universal" R/R handy, easy to swap in/out and see if it is the R/R.

I'd say you either have a bad R/R, you are bleeding voltage or possibly both.. 30+year old wires, weak insulation, wire is cheap and if you have the time.....

even though we are dealing with low voltage, think of voltage as "electrical pressure"... envision a water hose, the hose is the insulator, the water is conductor, the GPM is the current and the PSI is the voltage, if the GPM stays the same but you increase the PSI...the pressure has to be relieved somewhere, there has to be leakage/bleed off somewhere and old insulation makes it easy. Try running the bike in the dark and look for a small spark/glow if you are bored.


Unless you want to spend just as much time setting up to do an insulation test (you would need an insulation tester $$$). It's easier and takes just as much time to replace the wiring and be done with any questions.

spend the $15 on a cheapo R/R and if that solves your issues, then spend the money on a good one and keep the cheap one as an emergency back up or a tester.

question... did you pull the R/R off and look at the back for any burn marks or obvious signs of overheat? Just curious.

We have something called the quick test that is able to separate a large part of the ambiguity group of symptoms and faults. It is based on an diagnosis of the deviations in measurements from a prescribed normal range. In the Op's case it is clear he is dealing with dirty connection, just a matter of finding them. The SPG is one of the ways to improve those connections part of which he has apparently done.

[posplayr]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]50081[/ATTACH]
This the fuse box when i opened it. I cleaned what i could but as you can see it was in pretty good shape.

Realize that if you have 10 amps flowing through that fuse box, then it would only take 0.1ohms to drop 1.0V. Given this is minimum resolution of most ohmmeters you can get a sense of the problem. You can have minor oxidation causing significant voltage drops (e.g. 0.5V or more) .
You need to chemically clean and treat that fuse box.

If you have a decent soldering iron and some flux, you can flow a little solder into the crimps and make a permanent solution rather than have a maintenance task.

[buckshot1718]

Alright. Im gonna go ahead and solder the connections, see if this helps. If not then ill just have to dig through some of the wires more and see if there are any bad ones.
Thanks everyone.

[posplayr]

Alright. Im gonna go ahead and solder the connections, see if this helps. If not then ill just have to dig through some of the wires more and see if there are any bad ones.
Thanks everyone.

I really dont know you from anything other than your posts ,but before you go off and try and solder oxidized crimps and over heat the wire, clean them with Naval jelly and use liquid flux.