Interesting.... Installed SH775

[Guest]

So I finally got around to installing the SH775 regulator. Wired stator directly into r/r as directed on here, bypassing factory wiring except for the red positive lead. Ran the bike and max voltage was 13.7 at anything above 2000rpm. Not impressed at all. Worse than stocker that it replaced. Checked all connections and they were rock solid. Got a wild hair up my butt and decided to run the positive lead from r/r directly to the battery with 10awg wire from the r/r with a 20amp inline fuse. Fired up bike and now I see 12.8v at idle and anything above 1500rpms I'm seeing a rock solid 14.3v. 👍👍 So am I correct in assuming there is voltage loss going on somewhere on the positive side of the factory lead/harness? I think I'm going to leave things as is and run it! Why not? The SH775 barely even gets warm compared to the stocker which got hot! 😳 Is the 20amp inline fuse good or should I upgrade to a 30amp? I have seen conflicting info on this.
Thx guys! This site has been invaluable. 👍👍

[posplayr]

Yes the loss is in the wiring and the 14.3-13.7=0.6V appears to be on the positive side. Positive side is teh direct path from the battery(+) to the R/R(+) which is probably mostly in your fuse box.

The main reason for not doing what you are doing is because your have changed the way the bike was wired originally which was actually done correctly or at least well thought out with respect to what happens when something fails. Like you blow a main fuse and the bike keeps running. Not sure how your is wired; Will teh bike keep running when you pull the main fuse?

Second, you're now running a 20 amp fuse when before you were getting away with a 15 amp fuse. This is becuase of the new configuration. Typical 16 gauge wire will not 15 amps and 20 amps even much less. If you go to 25 amp fuse, you are further reducing your protection.

[Steve]

Just for fun and the sake of accuracy, re-connect it the stock way. Run the bike, have your negative meter lead on the negative terminal of the battery. Bump engine speed to 2500-3000 RPM. Check the voltage at the battery, record it. Check the voltage at each side of the MAIN fuse, record them. Check the voltage at the red wire coming out of the R/R, record it. That should tell you where you are losing your voltage.

If you are seeing low voltage even at the red wire, the problem might not be in the positive side, so connect your red lead to the red wire at the R/R, follow the negative path from the R/R to the battery, see if there are any drops, and how big they are.

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[posplayr]

Just for fun and the sake of accuracy, re-connect it the stock way. Run the bike, have your negative meter lead on the negative terminal of the battery. Bump engine speed to 2500-3000 RPM. Check the voltage at the battery, record it. Check the voltage at each side of the MAIN fuse, record them. Check the voltage at the red wire coming out of the R/R, record it. That should tell you where you are losing your voltage.

If you are seeing low voltage even at the red wire, the problem might not be in the positive side, so connect your red lead to the red wire at the R/R, follow the negative path from the R/R to the battery, see if there are any drops, and how big they are.

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Steve is basically describing the Stator Pages Phase A, except it specified 5K RPM.

Remember if you're carrying 10 amps, it only takes 0.1 ohms to drop a full volt. So 0.6 V drop is only 0.06 ohms. You probably cant read that on your meter.

[dezlpwr]

Steve is basically describing the Stator Pages Phase A, except it specified 5K RPM.

Remember if you're carrying 10 amps, it only takes 0.1 ohms to drop a full volt. So 0.6 V drop is only 0.06 ohms. You probably cant read that on your meter.

That's true. Thanks for the input guys. That makes sense. When I have some spare time, I will do the tests that Steve suggests... 👍

[Steve]

Actually, it's posplayr's tests, I just spelled them out a bit.

Yes, the Quick Test does call for 5000 rpm. I chose the lower speed because dezlpwr said the voltage dropped over 2000 rpm, and most systems are into the regulation phase by then, so would be showing max voltage. It's also easier on the ears if you are in a closed garage.

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[posplayr]

Actually, it's posplayr's tests, I just spelled them out a bit.

Yes, the Quick Test does call for 5000 rpm. I chose the lower speed because dezlpwr said the voltage dropped over 2000 rpm, and most systems are into the regulation phase by then, so would be showing max voltage. It's also easier on the ears if you are in a closed garage.

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Unless there is a stator problem, the reason the voltage is dropping is because there are larger voltage drops in the connections due to the most current flowing.

The original stator pages measured the voltage drops at idle, but they will certainly get worse when more current is pushed. So the original test would under report the problems.

It is not always the case, but has been pretty predictable that when the voltage start to drop at 5K v.s. 2500 it is the positive side of the R/R connections.

Of course it was apparently baltzor that came up with the original fix to run a seperate wire from battery(-) to R/R(-). I just formalized the concept, so as to minimize current between the battery(-) and R/R(-) while still having them directly connected.

[dezlpwr]

Actually, it's posplayr's tests, I just spelled them out a bit.

Yes, the Quick Test does call for 5000 rpm. I chose the lower speed because dezlpwr said the voltage dropped over 2000 rpm, and most systems are into the regulation phase by then, so would be showing max voltage. It's also easier on the ears if you are in a closed garage.

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I guess I wasn't clear in my original post. With the SH775 initially installed in the factory positive wire in the harness, voltage went from 12.8 at idle and increased with increased throttle peaking at 13.7v at about 2000-2500rpms. Increasing rpms above about 2500 resulted in no increase in voltage. It stayed at 13.7v above 2500rpms. Wired directly to battery, everything is same except I gained .6v. I do see a quicker jump in voltage off idle. 14.3v rock solid from about 1800rpms on up. At idle, I still see 12.8v or basically battery voltage.

[Steve]

Seems to show that you have some losses in the stock wiring.

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[posplayr]

Seems to show that you have some losses in the stock wiring.

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Probably in the fusebox.I think there is another thread about the exact same thing going on.

All covered in my first post.

[dezlpwr]

Probably in the fusebox.I think there is another thread about the exact same thing going on.

All covered in my first post.

I'd be surprised but I'm sure it's possible. My fuse box and fuses are in like new condition as well as all the connections. I guess we'll find out when I do the tests.

[Steve]

I guess we'll find out when I do the tests.

I have some fun reading signatures of various members, and have had a few laughs and even learned a thing or three.

One thing I have adopted is in Nessism's signature: "To measure is to know." Words to live by.

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