Power surge 83 GS 850G

[posplayr]

I'll find out soon if anything else got fried other than the H4 headlight bulb. No added electronics just stock stuff like ignition, incandescent lights etc.

Electronics means semiconductors. A light bulb is electric. If you have an ignitor (v.s. points) it is electonics.

[Burque73]

Electronics means semiconductors. A light bulb is electric. If you have an ignitor (v.s. points) it is electonics.

Just thought I'd mention the bulbs in my last post since a lot of people are switching to LED's and I wasn't sure if there are associated electronics added to operate them and manage the difference in the current draw.

Dammit Jim, I'm a carpenter, not an electrician! haha

[posplayr]

Just thought I'd mention the bulbs in my last post since a lot of people are switching to LED's and I wasn't sure if there are associated electronics added to operate them and manage the difference in the current draw.

Dammit Jim, I'm a carpenter, not an electrician! haha

Sorry, just trying to clarify what might be electrical v.s. electronics goblins.

But now that I think about it, a filament incandescent bulb will also "wear" down from stresses of over voltage as well.

BTW an LED is considered a semiconductor.

[Burque73]

Sorry

Please don't be. Your analytical mind is a blessing!!

just trying to clarify what might be electrical v.s. electronics goblins.

But now that I think about it, a filament incandescent bulb will also "wear" down from stresses of over voltage as well.

BTW an LED is considered a semiconductor.

Good to know! Thanks

[2BRacing]

The package left on my doorstep brought a smile to my face. I'm surprised to see the sh775 dwarf the stock r/r. I went ahead and ordered the kit to connect it which arrived at the same time. Only $10 shipped and with a used unit if I had to replace it down the road I figured that would make it easier.



Still need to pull the windjammer and unwrap the bundle of wires and track down the sense wire, inspect/ clean/ replace as needed all connections etc. I'm really out of my comfort zone with 12v DC wiring but will give it a go. Maybe just mind screwing myself and it wont be that bad once I get into it.

I am not an electrical fundi, but reading the bold marked part in your post, I thought I could maybe save you some unnecessary work, by mentioning that the SH775 does not need a "sense" wire to regulate properly. The "sense" wire was only needed for the adapted 6 wire Honda R/R's which used to be used before the SH775 arrived on the scene. The extra "sense" wire (linked to a switched +ve such as the rear brake light feed) was used to obtain a more accurate measurement of the battery voltage, in order to improve regulation accuracy. Your OEM R/R also did not have a "sense" wire, as it has only 5 pins: 3 for the stator, one for +ve and one for -ve.

I hope Posplayr reads this and chimes in with the real facts, as I do not want to lead you astray!

[Burque73]

I am not an electrical fundi, but reading the bold marked part in your post, I thought I could maybe save you some unnecessary work, by mentioning that the SH775 does not need a "sense" wire to regulate properly. The "sense" wire was only needed for the adapted 6 wire Honda R/R's which used to be used before the SH775 arrived on the scene. The extra "sense" wire (linked to a switched +ve such as the rear brake light feed) was used to obtain a more accurate measurement of the battery voltage, in order to improve regulation accuracy. Your OEM R/R also did not have a "sense" wire, as it has only 5 pins: 3 for the stator, one for +ve and one for -ve.

I hope Posplayr reads this and chimes in with the real facts, as I do not want to lead you astray!

Thanks for the info. I'm learning a lot during this repair for sure. It still seemed good to go through all of the connections behind the headlight anyway for a thorough inspection, cleaning and dielectric grease application.

Yes, in a PM exchange Posplayr has set me straight on the wiring.

On another note, this has given me the opportunity to repaint a couple of spots on the frame and swing arm since at some point a battery vented enough acid out to eat the paint.

[Burque73]

Still trying to sort this guys, please bear with me....

After breaking four torx head bits trying to remove nearly seized bolts from the Polaris mounting plate, I got it free. The new r/r wouldn't fit next to the fuse box so I mounted it under the battery box. I struggled to get the bolt closest to the engine and used an inspection camera to guide my hand. A right angle drill attachment helped tighten the bolt.





I'm still beating my head against the wall with the wiring though. Here's a pic of what I'm looking at.



On the left in the pic, the three stator wires which went into the harness, will now run directly to the r/r grey side with the three pins.

Q: clip, wrap and abandon all three (yellow, W/blue and W/green) going up behind the air box into the harness

On the right the five wires going to the old r/r. Red and Black go to the two pins on the black side of the new r/r

Q: what to do with the other three (W/red, W/blue and yellow)

[JTGS850GL]

Correct that the three wires from the stator go directly to the gray connector. Which wire to which pin doesn't matter. The red wire goes to the + pin on the black connector. The - pin goes to the battery - or the W/black wire. As for the wires in the harness, the yellow and W/blue simply go from the bullet connector to the R/R connector so those don't connect to anything. The W/green and W/red tie together in the headlight bucket and go back to the old R/R connector so those don't need to be connected to anything either.

[Burque73]

OK, it's sinking in. Slowly but surely lol...

[Burque73]

Wahoo, it's running again! After sitting for two weeks I was expecting it to be stubborn to start but not the case at all. In a second the engine fired and seemed to run better than ever. After getting everything buttoned up I took the bike out for a ride tonight. I added a single point ground and abandoned the headlight loop as suggested, also replaced the headlight bulb which seems to be the only damage done by running without the battery.

Thank you guys sooooo much for all the input on this!!

[technostructural]

Hey everyone.

I'm a little bit late to this party, but after some tests this weekend, I've determined that my R/R is bad too. It was giving over 17 volts at only about 2500RPM.

I guess I now know why my old battery was boiled dry. I don't want to ruin the new one, so it's time to get this sorted.

I see here that the SH775 is the R/R of choice. I've read a few of the well-cited threads on the GSResources about different rectifiers. What I can't determine is why a cheaper Ebay unit wouldn't also fit the bill. (e.g., http://www.ebay.ca/itm/REGULATOR-REC...ZYlMXR&vxp=mtr)

What is it about the SH775 that makes it so preferable?

I read through the rather large list of R/Rs that are compatible with the bike, but what I can't determine is which are best to use and why. If something has already been written about this, I would really appreciate being linked to it!

Thanks.

EDIT: My bike is an 83 GS450T

Here's a photo of my current R/R:

IMG_20170409_125536.jpg

[posplayr]

Hey everyone.

I'm a little bit late to this party, but after some tests this weekend, I've determined that my R/R is bad too. It was giving over 17 volts at only about 2500RPM.

I guess I now know why my old battery was boiled dry. I don't want to ruin the new one, so it's time to get this sorted.

I see here that the SH775 is the R/R of choice. I've read a few of the well-cited threads on the GSResources about different rectifiers. What I can't determine is why a cheaper Ebay unit wouldn't also fit the bill. (e.g., http://www.ebay.ca/itm/REGULATOR-REC...ZYlMXR&vxp=mtr)

What is it about the SH775 that makes it so preferable?

I read through the rather large list of R/Rs that are compatible with the bike, but what I can't determine is which are best to use and why. If something has already been written about this, I would really appreciate being linked to it!

Thanks.

EDIT: My bike is an 83 GS450T

Here's a photo of my current R/R:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]50453[/ATTACH]

See GS Stator in my signature

[Burque73]

Juat thought I'd ad this for anyone else buying a used r/r still attached to the mounting plate. I broke several torx bits trying to free the darn thing. Buy without that plate if possible to avoid the hassle.