Charging Problems

[posplayr]

I was told used SH-775's on ebay are reliable since they are hard to hurt and they are way cheaper than new ones. You need a wiring hookup that is available new from Triumph dealers. I just ordered one of the sh-775's for $40 and the wiring hookup for $14 shipped.

There maybe one or two stories lurking out there of failed SH-775's but I don't recall anybody ever reporting any. The used ones are probably as good if not better as they have been more extensively burn in tested.

In comparison a stock Shunt R/R has been trying to kill the stator for what ever amount of time it was installed and used.

[danbobberino]

Guys I am so confused.

I thought my bike was a 1979 Suzuki GS550E, and technically it is, but I think it was built as an L model. I'm so confused and I don't know which parts to buy.

Please check out this video I just quickly put together: https://youtu.be/xxjPS9ENqMk

Anyway, I just pulled an 18 pole stator out of the bike and I'm not sure if I for sure need the 12 like you guys were talking about or if I need the 18?

HELP!

[robertbarr]

Guys I am so confused.


Anyway, I just pulled an 18 pole stator out of the bike HELP!

It sure looks "L" to me.

The usual "L" sidecovers are sort of triangular. I'll have to look up an older 550L to see for sure. Perhaps that "E" sidecover was 'adapted' onto the bike.

As for the stator -- on a GS of that age, it's very probable that this isn't the first time the charging system has failed. One common way to solve the 12-pole problem is to install a rotor from a later bike made for 18-pole stators. That may explain why you pulled an 18-pole out of there.

No matter how it got there, that solves one problem for you.

[danbobberino]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrosport...5Y9Qj~&vxp=mtr

Just ordered one of these (not to get ahead of things, you might not need a stator.) Less expensive and better than OEM.

So I guess I'll just order a new 18 pole stator and hope for the best (I'm also going to go to the local polaris dealership/triumph dealership and pick up the sh775 and the T2500676 harness (or order off eBay for the sh775 and bike bandit for the T2500676 I guess).

Are 18 pole stators pretty much interchangeable? As in, could I just order the same one that is 1948man mentioned above and will it fit in place of the one I removed?

Oh, and when I removed the cover to get to the stator the gasket ripped in half and broke. I thought the best thing to do would be to go down to my suzuki dealership and order a new one? Any suggestions there? Partzilla says I need a 11483-47000-H17

[1948man]

I'm no expert and am more of a taker of information than a giver but here is what I think I have learned. OEM gaskets are by far the best in areas prone to leak but the stator gasket isn't in a real harsh environment so aftermarket gaskets like those sold a Z-1 Enterprises are okay. Not sure about the stator but suspect it will work, you might want to wait for a stronger opinion. The SH775's are much cheaper used and as stated above, they are considered to be a good gamble used to save a lot of money. When I was searching Ebay for one, I only found one listed but maybe my search was faulty.

[danbobberino]

I took the cover (crankcase cover?) off of the rotor on my bike and used my screwdriver tip to count how many times it stuck as I went around the inside of the rotor and sure enough! Its a 12 pole rotor! Someone molested it and put an 18 pole rotor in - insert angry face!

Can anyone recommend a brand of rotor? If not, I'll order this one I guess: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ElectroSport...JXUpSP&vxp=mtr

[danbobberino]

I took the cover (crankcase cover?) off of the rotor on my bike and used my screwdriver tip to count how many times it stuck as I went around the inside of the rotor and sure enough! Its a 12 pole rotor! Someone molested it and put an 18 pole rotor in - insert angry face!

Can anyone recommend a brand of rotor? If not, I'll order this one I guess: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ElectroSport...JXUpSP&vxp=mtr

Don't worry about it, I just ordered it....

[danbobberino]

Okay, just hooked it back up and tested

1. Battery tested 12.9 volts - I had it on a trickle charger this afternoon and haven't touched it since

2. Turned ignition key on and headlight on - 12V

3. Started bike and idled - no headlight 12.3V
- headlight 12.1V

4. 2500RPM headlight on - 12.1V

5. 5000RMP headlight on - 12.1V

6. turned key off (headlight turned off when key turned off) - 12.4V

These were all tested at the battery terminals (battery is brand new with 2 short rides on it)

I just unhooked the alternator leads and tested ac voltage with the bike running. I tried my best to rev it up but my tach doesn't work and I didn't want to rev the **** out of it because its 10:45PM and I'm working right outside my 2 year olds window who is sleeping.

I got up to 45Volts phase to phase on all 3 phases while I was revving it and about 15-16V phase to ground while revving it. I don't know how many RPM I was at but I definitely wasn't very hi.

Tomorrow I will start up the bike with the alternator disconnected again and rev the bike up more and see if I'm getting the 75-90V phase to phase as Steve mentioned in the previous reply.

Please see my youtube video below where I tested the R/R.

https://youtu.be/-EWdixr2vak

I think my R/R is shot by these tests.....

What do you think?

I pulled an 18 pole stator out of the bike. I put on the new 12 pole stator and fired up the bike. I got 0V phase to phase and 0V phase to ground. I'm confused. I took a metal screw around my rotor and it stuck 12 times (as in magnetic) and you had mentioned it should be a 12 pole. I assumed that meant I needed a 12 pole stator. Was I wrong in believing the rotor is a 12 pole and it really is an 18? As shown above I did actually get voltage out of the old 18 pole stator and am getting nothing out of the 12 pole.

What do I do now?

[tom203]

image.jpgThe rotor that goes with the 18 pole stator has 6 pairs of N/S magnets, i.e. 12 total. The rotor thst mates with the 12 pole stator has 4 pairs of N/S magnets,i.e. 8 total. While the screwdriver test is fine, I prefer to use a small round magnet like in attached pic... one magnet side is N ,other is S. As you move it around inside of rotor, the N side of magnet will grab at the rotor's S pole, but push off from the rotor's N pole. This lets you count the poles that you got.

[danbobberino]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]51169[/ATTACH]The rotor that goes with the 18 pole stator has 6 pairs of N/S magnets, i.e. 12 total. The rotor thst mates with the 12 pole stator has 4 pairs of N/S magnets,i.e. 8 total. While the screwdriver test is fine, I prefer to use a small round magnet like in attached pic... one magnet side is N ,other is S. As you move it around inside of rotor, the N side of magnet will grab at the rotor's S pole, but push off from the rotor's N pole. This lets you count the poles that you got.

I just put the old 18 pole stator back into it and got the same 52 -ish volts phase to phase. I hooked it up to my new sh775 (which actually doesn't say sh775 on it anywhere?) and I got about 2Vdc out of the R/R.

What do I do now? I keep pouring money into this thing and can't seem to fix the problems.

[danbobberino]

So does anyone else think this is the proper stator for my bike then?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-WILDBOAR-STATOR-COIL-ASU4001-249178-ARROWHEAD-/152279839552?fits=Year%3A1979%7CMake%3ASuzuki%7CModel%3AGS550L&vxp=mtr&hash=item237495f340

[danbobberino]

So I ordered the 18 pole stator (I believe I ordered the correct one) as well as a genuine shindengen sh775BA and I'm going to try to return the knock off I bought.

Do you guys think there could possibly be a problem with the rotor? I know to create voltage you need a conductor, magnetic field, and relative motion. I was consistently getting about 52 volts phase to phase out of the existing stator and about 16 volts phase to ground under no load conditions.... I am assuming this is low? Should probably be more like what 75V phase to phase?

[danbobberino]

So I ordered the 18 pole stator (I believe I ordered the correct one) as well as a genuine shindengen sh775BA and I'm going to try to return the knock off I bought.

Do you guys think there could possibly be a problem with the rotor? I know to create voltage you need a conductor, magnetic field, and relative motion. I was consistently getting about 52 volts phase to phase out of the existing stator and about 16 volts phase to ground under no load conditions.... I am assuming this is low? Should probably be more like what 75V phase to phase?

does anyone know of a way to test the rotor? Part of me thinks the fact I was maxing out at like 52V makes me think the magnetic field has weakened.

[hillsy]

does anyone know of a way to test the rotor? Part of me thinks the fact I was maxing out at like 52V makes me think the magnetic field has weakened.

From memory I think the test is to change it out if the stator doesn't put out the right voltage or it is visibly damaged. I don't think there is any other test you can do.

If someone has changed out your 12 pole for an 18 pole then they may have hit the rotor removing / installing and this can ruin them.

[posplayr]

Yes, generally unless there is obvious damage, rotors seldom come up broken or not serviceable.

From memory I think the test is to change it out if the stator doesn't put out the right voltage or it is visibly damaged. I don't think there is any other test you can do.

If someone has changed out your 12 pole for an 18 pole then they may have hit the rotor removing / installing and this can ruin them.