Lost All Spark DYNA S

[alkswheetinjur]

Well I sprayed some electrical cleaner in the connector and scraped it out the best I could, tested the orange wires as well as the red wire that goes to the Dyna. I got 11.72 V on all. Battery is at 12.15. I tested the red wire at the connector near where the coils mount. I couldn't find anywhere on the Dyna to get a reading. Not sure if these numbers are sufficient but I'm gonna try to get everything back together tomorrow night and see if there is any difference.

[hjfisk]

The plug going to the kill switch, when you turn the key on do you have power to any of the orange wires with the kill switch in the on position? I believe it is o/r is hot from key switch the breaks down from there through kill switch, also picking up power there for y/g to starter button and back out to coils . Another real problematic point on these bikes is the fuse box and the wiring to them

[OldVet66]

There is a threshold below which electronic ignitions will not work. 11.72 is not real good to start with and if it falls too much below that it is doubtful it will work at all. A good cleaning throughout the electrical system is going to be required in order to get a good solid voltage or it might be beneficial for you to investigate the relay modification that runs voltage directly from the battery without going through the harness, to your coils and ignition controlled by your kill switch (that is also controlled by the ignition switch). Voltage drop does not affect the ability to operate a relay so that might get you up and running while you sort out the rest of the electrical system.

[Rijko]

There is a threshold below which electronic ignitions will not work. 11.72 is not real good to start with and if it falls too much below that it is doubtful it will work at all. A good cleaning throughout the electrical system is going to be required in order to get a good solid voltage or it might be beneficial for you to investigate the relay modification that runs voltage directly from the battery without going through the harness, to your coils and ignition controlled by your kill switch (that is also controlled by the ignition switch). Voltage drop does not affect the ability to operate a relay so that might get you up and running while you sort out the rest of the electrical system.

for the purpose of troubleshooting, i would simply run a direct wire from battery to coils...just my 2 cents
But it does not look like the op wants to try this sort of thing, i may be wrong ?
No problem ofcourse, i only offer options.

[alkswheetinjur]

I think I'm gonna try the battery to coil method. Sorry for my ignorance. I have a little skill in a lot of things but diagnosing and repairing electrical issues isn't one of them. Is the ultimate goal to get the voltage on the power wire going to the coil to match the battery voltage?

[alkswheetinjur]

Put my battery on charge while I got everything back together again. I'm now reading 12.89 at the coil but nothing has changed, still no spark anywhere. Ran a wire off my battery to the coil and it made my gauges and lights come on but did nothing for spark. This is driving me crazy the bike was running fine a week ago and now nothing. I've been reading everything I can on here but haven't yet found anyone with this issue.

[Rijko]

due to old wiring and bad connections voltage may drop, even below a level that is needed to operate.
The modification Oldvet66 suggested, is a popular one because it provides a direct connection from battery to coils.

You are doing a good job in learning how the wiring is setup and cleaning up the connections.
That is something that needs to be done anyway.

My advice is based on finding a spark first and identify a problem next.
My approach is quick and dirty, and i fully understand people that choose another route.
The other suggested solutions are good, feel free to follow those advices, they will bring the same result.

What you need to see a spark are 3 things, and those can be ruled out as being a problem individually :
12 volt to coil, good coil/lead/cap/spark plug, and a ground to the coils that is interrupted.
For ease of use, i connect a wire from the plug threads to ground as in the movie i posted.
Just wrap the copper wires around the threads a bit better than that guy did.
You measured good values on the coils, but let's look for a spark.

Check the grounding cables from battery to frame and engine, clean rust or corrosion where needed.

11.72 volt may be good enough but just to be sure make a direct connection from positive battery terminal to coils.
Don't plug the regular power connection in also - just a wire from battery to the coil.

Plug a wire into the ground/signal connection on the coil and rub/tap it against ground.

If this does not produce a spark, you only have a few components to check for issues.

[Rijko]

Ran a wire off my battery to the coil and it made my gauges and lights come on but did nothing for spark.

so those did not work either ?
That is another indication of a wiring problem to be focussed on later on.
Could be a fuse is blown, or a faulty fuse box.

[alkswheetinjur]

Just installed a new Dyna S DS3-2 a set of NGK racing cables and plugs. I now have spark on cylinder #3 and only #3. I did another voltage test on the #2-#3 coil and it's only reading 1.30 volts on the trigger wire and 11.26 on the orange wire. The #1-#4 coil is reading the same 11.26 top and bottom (BUT NO SPARK!). Was on the phone with Dynatek earlier and the tech was completely baffled. I've checked for bad wires up and down the harness. This is starting to turn into a pricey fix. Any suggestions before I buy new coils that I may or may not need?

[OldVet66]

11.26V is probably not enough to properly operate the ignition. Fix your low voltage problem at the coils.