Ignition Advancer, Dyna install Question

[Guest]

I followed the instructions and a great online video and installing the new dyna was cake. I was replacing one I suspect as having a bad module with a new unit. I have a test light going from my battery ground and attached a wire from the white on coil 1-4 to the end of the test probe and got my plate aligned nicely.
When I went to check 2-3 I just switched the wire to coil for 2-3 but my problem is where 1-4 have a series of marks on the advancer 2-3 on the advancer is simply "2.3" and to the left of it counter clockwise a single line. I am not sure where I am supposed to have my light come on in order to see if I need to adjust the position of the 2-3 module. I posted a link to a pic below and the circle just shows where the timing arrow is in relation to the advancer when the light comes on. It doesnt seem right to me but .. I dont know. I would think it would be straight above the 2.3.

http://www.boriqualeather.com/stuff/GS750/timing%20c.jpg

[60ratrod]

iirc, you are supposed to line the mark up for 1/4 at the t-mark on the advancer. then what you do is just go straight from the 1/4 mark and either scribe a mark or make a mark using a sharpie straight across on the 2/3 side so you can set the static timing on the 2/3 side. it's really just that simple. but again, I don't remember exactly if you set 1/4 on the "t" mark or the "f" mark on the advancer

[Boriqua]

well without focusing on the 2-3 I decided to try and run it and .... well .. I was able to get it to idle at about 1500 and it sounded AWESOME! I know idle is supposed to be around 1200 but I haven't been able to get it below 2000 without stalling. Now I think I finally got it to where I can see what needs to be done to tune it. I told the wife .. I just need to get it to run reliably just so I can see what I need to do to get it to run well. I spent the last 2 months just making it a good running bike. Tomorrow I will take it for a run. Now I can work on the tweaks.

Still want to know what marks to use on the 2-3 side of the ignition advance and may try the marker as suggested but .. since it starts and runs .. I think maybe a timing light is next.

[60ratrod]

You're gonna need to mark the other side of the advancer i order to set the timing on the 2/3 side. The factory signal plates used fixed signal generators and you would have to turn the whole plate to set ignition timing. With the dyna units using independently adjustable signal pulser coils for both ignition coils, you will have to remove the dyna and mark the 2/3 side of the advancer so you can actually dial in the dyna unit. Both my 81 kz1000 and 81 gs650g were equipped with dyna s units, and for the street all i had to do was set static timing with a test light.

Now next question, when you rev your bike, does the rpms hang up or dip down when you release the throttle?

[Boriqua]

Took it out for 9.5 miles today and the dropped cylinders problem is cured. I was getting a little hesitation at around 4000 rpm but I can give a good twist of throttle and it will zoom to red line. I let the bike cool and took out one of the plugs and it is BONE white. My old plugs maintained a nice light tan color but this is like chalk. I am assuming its the hotter coils?? I have dynatek coils and ignition new now. I still cant get it to idle below say 1800 so I think I am just to lean. I figure I will try and make subtle adjustments at the air screws.

[60ratrod]

now that the ignition is working great, you need to dive into the carbs. even if the po said he cleaned them, I would still go through them as per the infamous tutorial. I would also look at the carb boots and replace the carb boot O-rings between the head and the boots if you haven't already. the high idle is telling me that something is going on with the carbs, and that there is a vacuum leak. a vacuum leak will cause a high idle or a hanging idle. or if you have already completely stripped and cleaned the carbs, inspected the boots and replaced the O-rings, then you need to vacuum sync the carbs since an out-of-wack carb bank will mimic vacuum leaks and you will chase your tail trying to find the leaks(ask me how I learned that lol).