1982 GS850G - Compufire R/R and Caltric Stator install

[growler]

Here is some in depth info on it from the one and only posplayr.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161397-Compu-Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install

I've seen too many overheated connectors to want more of them than I need as a minimum. I did have a starter clutch go out, and did have to cut and re-do a little. Overall, it wasn't a big part of the overall job of changing the starter clutch. It was incidental.

What type of regulator is the Comp-u-fire? I didn't find it in their literature.

[growler]

Another rookie question about the positive and negative connections from the r/r.

The positive goes to the battery positive and the negative gets shortened and grounded as close to the r/r as possible?

Do I need to add a fuse?

[posplayr]

Just found this post.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161397-Compu-Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install&p=1915267#post1915267

I think I will order the 3 completed wires:

https://www.napaonline.com/p/NW_725436

Anyone know the part number for that black 3 wire connector? (upper right)

I would suggest that those crimps that go inside the connector case shoudl have a little solder flowed into them. I left a set bare and they oxidizes and cause the insulation on the wire to distort from overheating.

[Steve]

Another rookie question about the positive and negative connections from the r/r.

The positive goes to the battery positive and the negative gets shortened and grounded as close to the r/r as possible?

Do I need to add a fuse?

Ideally, the positive output from the R/R should go to the red wire near the fusebox that the original R/R connected to. Unless you do a bit of modification and re-wiring of the entire system, that is the best way. There is a fuse already installed, if you do it that way, so no need for another one.

The R/R ground wire should go to your "SPG" or Single Point Ground, where everything comes together. The SPG (another one of posplayr's recommendations) ensures the best circuit for charging currents. Make it someplace other than the negative terminal on the battery, but be sure there is a wire that goes from there to the battery. On my bikes, I have only three wires connected to the battery: one on the positive terminal that goes to the starter solenoid (other power take-offs go from the solenoid terminal) and two on the negative terminal. One is the large one from the back of the engine (it grounds the starter) and a smaller one (10- or 12-gauge wire) to the SPG.

No real need to "shorten the wire" unless it's really long. A few inches here or there don't matter nearly as much as having extra connectors in-line.

.

[growler]

Right now the black wire from the old r/r is grounded (poorly) here. Could I use this same spot if I cleaned it up and sanded the corrosion off? Or do you suggest another place? (you are looking at the bottom of the battery box, shifter side of bike)

[Steve]

The problem with ground it there is that you then need another wire to go from the battery box to your SPG. Too many connections, use as few as practical.

You will still need a modest-size wire from the battery box to the SPG so that your starter solenoid works, as well as the accessory terminal (the screws at the bottom of your fuse box).

.

[growler]

Did a little dismantling this evening. Definitely have to clean up the battery box and repaint it while I'm doing this other work. Couldn't get the fuse box/starter solenoid bracket off the battery box. Soaked those screws with PB Blaster and will try again tomorrow.

I *think* I understand what you are saying Steve. I will read up on the SPG posts and comments that Posplayr has made and maybe it will finally click.

I am concerned with where to mount the r/r. It's about double in height as the original r/r, and I'm worried about swingarm clearance.


A few pics because why not?

[Steve]

It fit under the battery box on my wife's 850L. Yeah, there wasn't much room left, but it fit.

You have a hand impact wrench? That will remove those pesky screws rather quickly, but you will need something to brace the inside of the box to withstand the hammer impact.

Good to see that you found the easy way to install the R/R: remove the battery box.

.

[growler]

Yes I have a hand impact wrench. Plan on using it to remove those screws.

I guess I'll temporarily mount it to the bottom of box and reattach it. Then sit on the bike and jump around a bit - see if it touches the swingarm. I'd hate to get it all wired up and have there be an issue.

It fit under the battery box on my wife's 850L. Yeah, there wasn't much room left, but it fit.

You have a hand impact wrench? That will remove those pesky screws rather quickly, but you will need something to brace the inside of the box to withstand the hammer impact.

Good to see that you found the easy way to install the R/R: remove the battery box.

.

[growler]

Got a little work done yesterday. Battery box was cleaned up and repainted. Forgot to snap a pic of that. Will take one once I get the R/R mounted.

Things went smoothly for the most part. Had to take the impact to one screw that held the big tab protecting the stator wires inside the cover. That didn't work so I got out the dremel and cut a line down the middle so I could get in there with a regular impact bit vs phillips. She finally budged after that. New stator went in fine. I don't like how it doesn't have the black protection sleeve over the wires that come through the secondary part of the housing so I'm going to add some. I got this far and realized I had every OTHER replacement gasket EXCEPT the stator cover gasket. Got one ordered from Z1 and will continue once it arrives. In the meantime this week I'll cut off one of the R/R mounting tabs on the bottom of the battery box and weld it in the correct spot to hold the Compufire. Then test fit to make sure the swingarm doesn't hit it and then onto to wiring everything, the most daunting part of this for me.

Side note: about one pint of oil came out after removing the stator cover. That's taking cover off and letting it drip while I worked on other things. I did not drain the oil before starting. Bike was on center stand. I know some folks said only a little bit comes out, etc. This was my experience.

[Rijko]

looks good !

What was the reason to do this - just preventive good maintenance or issues with the stator maybe ?
Looks like clean brass wires on old stator yellow wires where they were clamped, must have shorted ??

[posplayr]

looks good !

What was the reason to do this - just preventive good maintenance or issues with the stator maybe ?
Looks like clean brass wires on old stator yellow wires where they were clamped, must have shorted ??

stator is fried.

[Rijko]

just found the other thread .. Who has two thumbs and needs a new stator?

[growler]

You got that right. I used Posplayr's signature to guide me through why my battery was not charging. Did the quick test, then tested my stator.

Replacing the stator and r/r to get the charging system good to go.

stator is fried.

[growler]

More progress today. One mounting tab for the R/R underneath battery box was cut, relocated and welded in the new position to accommodate the Compufire.

Stator gasket arrived yesterday from Z1, so I finishing wiring the stator and got the cover back on with allen head bolts from the Z1 bolt pack. New connector wired to stator wires and ready to plug into the Compufire.

Now I am stuck with grounding questions. I want to do this correctly. Sorry for my ignorance here, just want to complete this correctly. Shot this little video below with my questions. Visuals always help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxdV-o8o5m8

NOTE: a couple times I say stator when I mean R/R....it was a long afternoon.