No spark on ALL cylinders 1982 550L

[OldVet66]

The factory isolated the battery box and electrics plate with rubber grommets. There should be a ground wire from the harness to ground them, otherwise the solenoid for the starter would not work. Make sure you check for the ignition manufacturer on your mechanical advance unit. It should be near the top spring post either ND or KD. I imagine it uses the units for the older bikes since you have a mechanical advance. I would call Z1 Enterprises for that information. They also have good prices on the ignitions. You want to replace your R/R with a Series R/R and thoroughly check out your stator. posplayr has all the information in his signature line on how to do it. The most popular unit is the SH-775 because of price. I prefer the Compu-Fire 55402. It costs more but it is a smaller heavier duty unit.

[mizz0313]

Appreciate it! I will get this started and keep you updated on my results.

[mizz0313]

just a update on this issue, it was resolved with a dyna install. with carb tear down and installing factory air intake setup bike is running okay. still sorting issues out to getting running properly though. First off, after installing dyna i did use test light and everything checked out as far as timing. Now on to pilot screws i had them turned out about 2 1/2 turns and idle hung up, with about 3 turns out it seemed to idle smooth with nice response from throttle. When i took it out for a ride it bogged when giving throttle not really picking up any speed, got it back home and in neutral it ran like crap when throttled. After work i got it out again and once hot noticed while running that 1/4 where not firing, confirmed by grounding plugs to head. let it cool started again idled smooth revved great and still bogged when i took it for a ride, drove better but cant get rpms up to go through the gears. got it home immediately checked plugs and tried grounding 1/4 no spark, 2/3 fine. all connections check out 12 volts to dyna and coils from relay. 1/4 coil is hot when ive checked it while having these issues, is this how a bad coil acts? It is factory coils with 4600 miles on the bike. im chasing lean/rich conditions and realizing its actually ignition, is this a coil issue?

[tom203]

Remove the spark plug caps from the plug wires, cut back the plug wires 1/4 inch (this exposes fresh copper) and screw the caps back on. Note that spark has to travel down one plug wire ,leap two spark gaps and return to ignition coil.

Ok, best to describe your carb cleaning method... sounds like slow circuits aren't clean enough yet.

[mizz0313]

carbs were removed from rack, separated and dipped. each being Fully torn apart and thin wire pushed through all holes and float bowl circuits. I will try cutting 1/4 off the 1&4 plug wires, i did do this previously when going over no spark but will go down a little further. Thanks so much.

[tom203]

"1/4 no spark, 2/3 fine. all connections check out 12 volts to dyna and coils from relay. 1/4 coil is hot when ive checked it while having these issues, is this how a bad coil""

yes , could be bad coil.... so you find the left coil (for 1 and 4)noticeably hotter than the right during this testing ? They should feel similar. You need to make sure ignition coils are firing consistently, before we blame the bogging on the carbs.
When it was running ok, have you checked your charging system in case it's causing issues.

Do and report the Quick Test..

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?164993-Charging-System-QUICK-TEST/page2&p=1272192#post1272192

[mizz0313]

so I made the mistake of saying the coil was hotter once 1/4 stopped firing and its actually the 2/3 that was hotter than 1/4 coil but 2/3 is the working coil. I did cut .250 off of spark plug wires but haven't tested again. Was on my second autocraft battery from advance auto, which i feel like is total junk because it seems it can not hold a charge. although it could be my charging system after fully charging battery and getting these results from quick test the battery is still down to 12.2key off after sitting for only two days.


1.) key off................12.8

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec)......12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....13.1 - 13.6volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5- 13.9

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.4

6.) key off.....12.8

with these results i feel like charging system is good but just got a bad quality made battery (has bad reviews about not holding charge). I have a Yuasa on order will be here friday then i will check firing. Going to order a uni foam type filter replacement. PO used eggcrate foam, i found foam at work im using now but dont know if its making things better or worse and cant find any info on factory filter type. any suggestions? i think the foam im using may be too restrictive. I did machine a air cleaner box cover because mine did not have it when i bought it, i didnt think it was much but a cover but seen a few pictures of one and it looks like there is a cutout in cover to allow air through?

[mvalenti]

Last battery I bought was a duracel AGM from Batteries plus. great experience, 3rd season still going strong....

[tom203]

Yes ,you are charging, but a battery that falls to 12.2 after two days idle is either no good, or there is a drain load on it with key "off". Suspect the r/r if the yuasa behaves similar.

As to the airbox, did you study this setuo?

http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f843f8700230d8b4cea7/air-cleaner

[mizz0313]

Got new battery installed will see how it holds up after a few days. Also looked over that link you provided and I have to order airbox cover, I believe I was running rich due to too air restriction the foam I was using was too thick and no air being inserted into airbox. I did make my own filter using k&n material and also drilled a few holes in the cover I made. I took it out and it ran much better and the 1/4 coil is not cutting out. Bike pulled through rpm when full throttle but does seem to bog in first at light throttle. I will be ordering factory cover to get the right amount of air needed to operate correctly and see if that changes. Do you think air can cause those issues somewhat? Or do you think it's the slow circuit in carbs? Either way before tearing carbs back ill wait for cover and test drive again.

[tom203]

Slow speed circuits/passages need to be really clean, both for decent idle and aiding the transition to the midrange. Getting the airfilter box back to stock should improve things in the midrange. Before having another go at carb cleaning, try this....If bike is safe to ride, find some hilly terrain... look for a long downhill where you can enter at 55+ mph and then close/open throttle repeatedly. The closed throttle plates put lots of vacuum on the idle passages- you might find this helps cleaning them.

you did notice and reinstall the rubber plugs over the pilot jets in fuel bowls?

[mizz0313]

Yea they were there. A little beat up but reinstalled. I should actually order more now just incase. I will also give that a try tomorrow. It does idle nicely and very responsive, one thing I noticed last time was pilot screws were almost 4 turns out with the foam and now they are 2.5 turns out with new material and idles smooth.