Does the Dyna DS3-3C work on a 1982 GS450L?

[Guest]

So I have a few power issues, gonna check my ignition and coils. I've just been looking for back up plans if there is something wrong with the ignitor and I can't repair it.

I've seen a few times mentioned that the DS3-3C works on a GS450, but I just want to be absolutely sure.

If it does work, how come Dyna doesn't label it as such on their site?

GS 400 Twin w/coils 1976-1978 is what it says.

Anything that I'd need to modify to get a DS3-3C to work on a '82?

[tom203]

The DS3-2 replaces the ND ignition setup . On the 450 you have to make cutout for oil sender to clear.

image.jpg

Edit: if you go the dyna route, probably best to get (and mark ) the crank at TDC before you remove original signal plate- apparently on the 450 it's hard to see the marking

[pete]

Yep it will work, but not quite out of the box (but close).

Dyna made the DS3-3C for the GS400/425's which have a points setup. The 450's have electronic ignition but still with a mechanical advance setup.

The rotor on the 450 is shorter than the rotor for the points, so you will need to contact Dynatek and get them to include the spacer they use for one of the other kits (I can't recall the model now). I've had lengthy email discussions with them a number of years ago so in theory they should know what you're talking about.

The other potential issue is as Tom said regarding the oil pressure switch. Test fit the Dyna and ascertain if it will give you clearance for the oil pressure switch or not, you may need to dremel the plate a little to get enough clearance (I had to).

Also note with the DS3-3C kit that while it includes coils, it doesn't include the high tension leads so you'll need a set of those as well.

Edit: Two things... I found the email from Dynatek support where Scott tells me the spacer is from the DS3-2 kit.

The other thing... is yours actually an '82? If it's made in the second half of '82 it will be an '83 which has electronic advance, not mechanical advance. The Dyna won't be a bolt on for that.

The other alternative is to retrofit a GS500 setup. While I've not seen it done, it appears it should be a straight swap except for having to change the harness connectors. That should use your existing coils also. You'll need the rotor, signal generator, and ignitor to do that swap... although I have noticed some of the later 500's use a different setup again, so probably try to find the '90's or early 2000's models. When looking into it I noted the ignition advance curve is a little different to the 450 but it shouldn't cause any issues.

You may have noticed I've given this topic a little thought in the past

[lettuceman44]

Is there an easy way to tell if its an electronic advance? (I'm pretty sure its a 1982, but now I have to be extra sure haha).

I'm still learning so excuse my noobish questions :P

I'm going to be testing my coils and ignitor today, so hopefully nothing is wrong with them.

[tom203]

Remove the lttle round cover on lower right side of crankcase. Look for weights/spring setup like this parts fiche. This is a mechanical advancer

http://www.alpha-sports.com/spst/1982%20GS450L/41.htm?q=suzuki-parts

[pete]

Just chucked some pic's on Flickr, used to have it all ready to go until Photophucket happened.

Dynatek rotor on the mechanical advance unit, you can see the stock rotor beside it. If you have electronic advance, you won't have this advance unit at all. It also shows how the post is exposed above the top of the rotor meaning you need the spacer. While you have it apart, do yourself a favour and give the advance unit a good lube job as well.

IMG_3163 by starpoint73, on Flickr

Dynatek installed, and you can see how close it was to contacting the oil pressure switch which is why I dremeled a bit of a relief at that spot.

IMG_3167 by starpoint73, on Flickr

[lettuceman44]

Yup, its mechanical alright.

I started checking my electrical system.

Coils for primary left and right both are at 4.1 ohms.
Secondary without the caps on are at 25.13 k ohms.

I have a quick question about that. I want to make sure I was doing it right. Is the secondary just wire to wire?

Secondary with the caps on were showing 131 k ohms....which doesn't sound right at all......I had to quadruple check that to make sure I wasn't being dumb. Something in those caps are messed up.

So I guess I just need to check the actual ignitor. That is where things were confusing to me, so I had to stop what I was doing yesterday to go re read everything about it. I wasn't quite able to follow the directions I have.

Hopefully it checks out, but I'm glad to know that I have the Dyna as a back up option. Thanks Pete.
I checked my coils

[lettuceman44]

The Suzuki service manual doesn't say anything about coil testing :/

Can anyone verify what reading I should be getting for the secondary with the caps?

[pete]

Just did a quick search and looks like 10 to 20K ohm is good for the secondary... I'll try to remember to look in my service manual when I'm in the garage later, positive I saw those numbers in there somewhere.

[lettuceman44]

Just did a quick search and looks like 10 to 20K ohm is good for the secondary... I'll try to remember to look in my service manual when I'm in the garage later, positive I saw those numbers in there somewhere.

If you do see those numbers can you let me know what page you found them on?

[pete]

Crap, been too rushed this week and completely forgot. Will try to remember to check today although I should be painting in the shed...

[lettuceman44]

Crap, been too rushed this week and completely forgot. Will try to remember to check today although I should be painting in the shed...

Ok, so I just found out that the service manual on BikeCliff's website is actually the Clymer one. This entire time I thought it was the Suzuki lmao.

So maybe that is why I don't have the info.

In the Clymer PDF, on pg 181, for coil test, this is all it says.

"The easiest test for a suspected coil is to replace it with a coil that is known to be good. For instance, if one of the cylinders is operating satisfactorily, interchange the coils and see if the symptoms move to the opposite cylinder."


Also, I know what the numbers should be. It was the method that I wasn't sure about. On a twin, it is still just wire to wire for the secondary right?

[lettuceman44]

Got through the rest of the electrical. Some cleaning, spark plug caps replaced.

Ignitor is good! Woooooo!

Not only that, but the sparks are so nice and strong! It is almost white its so big! YESSSS. So I guess this question is moot, but always good to know in the future.

[pete]

Excellent, great news!! I forgot again (sorry) but really glad to hear it. A working ignitor on these is a bonus and saves a lot of stuffing around. Those plug caps are often the cause of suspected coil/spark issues.