1985 GS1150 No Start, Battery Okay

[dorkburger]

Hmmmm. Mines an es. I just noticed that yours is an e.
It may be different. Easiest way would be to just follow the wireset out from the switch.

[Mulkaccino]

Well, I just got slightly terrified. Bypassed the clutch safety, started up fine. Replaced the headlight (high beam wasn't working) started up fine. Did some bodywork stuff and started up again because I was happy she was running (though she's burning oil) and when I went to turn her off the engine shut down but the started motor started engaging continuously. Turned the key off and hit the engine kill switch just in case. Starter motor was still engaging, finally stopping just before I was about to pull the main fuse. Was a little shaken up thinking the bike was going to explode on me.

[posplayr]

Well, I just got slightly terrified. Bypassed the clutch safety, started up fine. Replaced the headlight (high beam wasn't working) started up fine. Did some bodywork stuff and started up again because I was happy she was running (though she's burning oil) and when I went to turn her off the engine shut down but the started motor started engaging continuously. Turned the key off and hit the engine kill switch just in case. Starter motor was still engaging, finally stopping just before I was about to pull the main fuse. Was a little shaken up thinking the bike was going to explode on me.

Either you shorted the cluctch safety switch to +12V or the start button is hanging. It takes +12V to the solenoid to engage it.

[Mulkaccino]

Either you shorted the cluctch safety switch to +12V or the start button is hanging. It takes +12V to the solenoid to engage it.

I plugged the Y/G wires that go to the clutch safety switch to each other, as dorkburger suggested, essentially leaving the switch always on. I followed all the wires today and everything seems right in place, though I haven't tested it with a meter yet to see if the issue might be in one of the harnesses, or within the starter switch itself. I did take apart the starter switch today and, though I was surprised at how unguarded everything is in there, it all seems functional and non-touchy.

When I first got the bike, the dash lights worked as intended; now the kickstand, oil, tail/stop, and side stand lights are all light up whenever the key is in the on position. What could this be indicative of?

Hmmmm. Mines an es. I just noticed that yours is an e.
It may be different. Easiest way would be to just follow the wireset out from the switch.

Just in case you're curious, there are a few plugs behind the airbox on the E, but most of the connectors are in the casing behind the headlight.

[posplayr]

If you had a. Opt meter much of the mystery would disappear

Sounds like you are still trying to debug without an Opt meter (DVM or volt meter )

[Mulkaccino]

I have a multimeter. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but not so much electronically (learning as I go; watching videos). What should I check for?

[posplayr]

I have a multimeter. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but not so much electronically (learning as I go; watching videos). What should I check for?

same as before

Realize these bikes have a clutch safety feature that requires you to pull the clutch in. You can disable it by shorting the two wires that go to the clutch perch. Other than that basic troubleshooting:

1.) With Ignition key on, Kill Switch on, you should have 12V nominal to the Coil (+) both coils. It it is too low (<11V) you have dirty contacts in Ignition switch and fuse box. Get some Deoxit and naval jelly to do chemical cleaning.

2.) The engine should now crank when you push the start button. If not, make sure there is 12V on the Yellow/Green wire at the solenoid (this could be blocked by the clutch safety feature above)when you push the start button and make sure there is a Black/White wire to one of the solenoid bolts (ground). You can jumper the two big poles also to just see if the starter will crank without using teh start button).

3.) If you measure the negative side of the coils, you should see them move between about 1V to 12V and continue to cycle as the engine cranks over. Each tome the voltage goes from 1V ==> 12V is when you get a spark (stick a screw driver into the high tension wire from one of the spark plugs and hold it near the head (metal) so it can arch. Should be able to jump a 1/8" gap but a blue spark. If the coil voltage is at say 10.5V you can have a hard start situation. Again cleaning contacts or going to the Coil Relay mod are typical solutions especially for the big bikes.

Get through this with some results and check back in.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?248954-1985-GS1150-No-Start-Battery-Okay&p=2426247#post2426247