No power? Bad starter relay solenoid?

[phydeauxmutt]

But it goes to the ignition cylinder, verified by volt meter.

What's an "ignition cylinder"?

[TinkersCustom]

What's an "ignition cylinder"?

The lock tumbler. I'm used to car terms sorry. You put your key in, turn it, bike comes on. That thing.

[TinkersCustom]

If your bike originally had just one in-line fuse, then a new in-line fuse holder is all you really need. If you're not a stickler for historical accuracy, you might consider installing a blade-type fuse holder - the blade fuses are (very) slightly easier to find at the store. Get the one for the blade fuses that are about 1" wide (ATC fuses), not the new ones that are 0.5" wide (ATM fuses). A holder like a Bussmann HHD or HHF ( http://www.cooperindustries.com/cont...07_HHC_HHD.pdf ) or equal is good; it will cost around $3 at the local general store and (confusingly) about $4 or $5 at the auto parts store. (The 1" wide ones came on the scene around 1980 and are everywhere now. The 0.5" wide ones came through around 2000 and are at the car parts store and the general store, but not necessarily at the quick-mart or truck stop yet.)

If you want to install a fuse box (for multiple fuses) in contemplation of future accessories, then that's up to you. Same considerations on fuse type as above apply.

Most likely you need to put a 15 amp fuse in whatever fuse holder you install. Get a box of spare fuses, too, and keep them on the bike - if that one fuse ever blows, nothing on the bike will work.

The second time that 15 amp fuse blows, you will be sorely tempted to go get a 20 amp or 30 amp or even (gulp) a 40 amp fuse and stick it in there. Do everything you can to resist that temptation! That 30 amp fuse won't blow... but the next weakest thing in the electrical system will!

Eule

For sure want to do fuse block for custom wires. I removed the old brake light and turn lights. I'm only worried about power being on all the time. I don't want that to happen, only when the bike is on.

I plan on adding new lights that are Led strips or rings or something.

[fastbysuzuki]

I plan on adding new lights that are Led strips or rings or something.

Not a good idea to install L.E.D lights of any kind if you are using the Oem stator and rectifier there are many posts on here about that pls do a search the rectifier is a shut type and returnes heat to the stator so the less current the bike requires the more heat returns and messes up the stator the rectifier of choice on here is the sh775 you can get a used one on eBay pretty cheap they are used on some polaris quads prices of new ones have took a real hike lately likely to many bikers buying them and then dealers have spotted a way to make more profit.

[TinkersCustom]

Not a good idea to install L.E.D lights of any kind if you are using the Oem stator and rectifier there are many posts on here about that pls do a search the rectifier is a shut type and returnes heat to the stator so the less current the bike requires the more heat returns and messes up the stator the rectifier of choice on here is the sh775 you can get a used one on eBay pretty cheap they are used on some polaris quads prices of new ones have took a real hike lately likely to many bikers buying them and then dealers have spotted a way to make more profit.

Alright Ill make sure I do some research for sure then. Thank you for telling me about this! Would I need to find replacements for both Stator and Rectifier or just the Rectifier? Also, should a rectifier matter where it is locate other than it needs to get cooled via the fins, mounting is my decision? Im considering relocating it to a created box under the seat and clearing out everything on the sides of the bike.

[fastbysuzuki]

If the stator test stacks up ok there is no reason to change that you will find good info here http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...31#post1138531
As for mounting the regulator your choice providing it does not overheat. Although it's better to have the ground as short as possible. Again search here for info one the "single point ground" Search for info on the sh775 and also what is known as the "handle bar loop" all worth while.
if you are thinking on getting a sh775 rectifier then there is info here make sure before you buy it has the markings as in this post. pictures are in page 7

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?200004-Series-Regulator-Source-SH775&highlight=SH-775

as some dealers are passing off some shunts saying there are 775

[fastbysuzuki]

If you are looking for a sh775 look here it's a bargain it's located in Canada don't know the shipping cost http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=292211804802

i would have bought it but at 45$ shipping to UK plus possible customs cost puts it out of reach.

[Eule]

I found two grounds at the headlight bucket not connected.

Another thread jogged my memory about this. Were those "two grounds" a black/white stripe wire ending in a bullet connector that wasn't connected to anything, and a brown wire ending in a bullet connector that wasn't connected to anything? Did you add connections to ground for either of those wires?

If so, you need to undo the connection to ground you added for the brown wire. That wire comes from the tail lamp (the dim filament of the tail/stop lamp) and is meant for a front parking light on non-US bikes. If you have that brown wire grounded inside the headlight bucket, you're going to blow a fuse once you get the ignition switch reconnected to the battery and turn the ignition switch on.

Grounding the loose black/white wire in the headlight bucket probably won't do anything bad, and might do a (very tiny) bit of good. You don't have to have it grounded, though. Probably most US-market GSes live their entire life with those two "extra" wires in the headlight bucket, not connected to anything.

Eule