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Hanging idle .. ignition springs?

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    Hanging idle .. ignition springs?

    So I am chasing a hanging idle when my bike gets warm/hot. I have it down to a minimum with carb settings but its still there a little and I am being insane.

    I have a question .. I have read in countless places that weak ignition springs could lead to hanging idle. I am starting to go there because I notice at very slow speeds around my retirement community even if my bike is hot I dont get the hanging idle but if I decide to do a 6000 rpm blast on the street and come hard on a red light It hangs the longest. About 2200 rpm for a 6 Mississippi count then drops in at 1100 and idles nicely.

    I tried to richen the mixture a touch but then it dies at lights. I think I have air leaks and mixture good.

    My theory is with the blast the weights are opening but they are not strong enough to come to a full close quickly and are coming back together slowly.

    When I go around the park at 20 miles an hour the weights never open. Am I talking crazy.

    Anyone else think this is a reasonable idea? I thought I might try taking the ignition cover off and revving it up in the driveway but I am not sure I will be able to tell what is going on with the weights if the bike isnt under load. I just dont know that heat would affect the springs and ignition. I am using a newly installed dynatek.

    Maybe I should just change the springs as insurance?
    Last edited by Guest; 10-23-2017, 05:44 PM.

    #2
    In my personal experience, there is damage in the area of the advancer where the weights hang up, if they do hangup. On a GS, air leaks are usually the cause. Didn't they go to an electronic advance in 1982?
    Last edited by 850 Combat; 10-25-2017, 02:51 PM.
    sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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      #3
      Originally posted by 850 Combat View Post
      Didn't they go to an electronic advance in 1982?
      Some did, some didn't.
      https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
      1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
      1981 HD XLH

      Drew's 850 L Restoration

      Drew's 83 750E Project

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        #4
        My best guess is you have an induction air leak. My best guess as to where, is the intake manifold "O" rings between the manifold and the cylinder head. They are probably hard as a rock and/or missing pieces instead of being supple like they should be.
        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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          #5
          My bike doesnt have the O rings just the boots which are still pretty pliable. They are smooth and not tacky like new rubber but still in excellent shape. I seem to have solved the issue and it was just my own stupidity.

          I had been setting the idle when the bike was luke warm. I went out two days ago and waited until I had 10 miles on the bike which I know is the minimum before it is at full temp. I then pulled over on the side of the road and lowered the idle using the large screw under the carbs a couple of times and wala. I turned the screw far more than I thought I might have to. It idles at 1100 when warm and doesn't hang and idles around 800-900 when luke warm say after a couple of miles.

          Weird thing .. or at least what I dont understand is when the idle screw was turned up causing the hang it still would drop to say between 1200 -1500. So I am a little confused how turning the idle screw down almost half a turn brings it down to 1100 but with no hangup .. but hey .. there are a lot of things in life I am ignorant of and I am just happy its working.

          I think I may invest in new boots and clamps anyway.
          Alex

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