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Melted SPG = R/R failure?

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    #16
    Originally posted by Chuck78 View Post
    Your initial reading on your "good" test of almost 15 volts immediately threw up a red flag for me, that seems a bit on the high side, and would cause the demise of modern lightweight LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate) batteries that are otherwise far more long lasting than lead acid, as long as they never get drawn down too low or overcharged excessively...
    12.2 or 12.4 not runnimg, 13.0 - 14.4 running is where I feel a good system should be at. I am open to criticism from my wiser elders here, however
    We all fully understand that the old regulators and rectifiers are quite archaic on today's standards, however!
    13.0V is OK just above idle but it will not charge a battery.

    Running at 3K RPM you should be above 14.0V. Most modern R/Rs are trimmed to be close to 14.25 or 14.5V so if you are lower than that it is because of poor connections. They don't get any better with time.

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      #17
      Bad starter?

      I didn't want to start a new thread so I'll continue here. I hooked up the SH775 temporarily with spade connectors and added the main earth strap from case to battery negative. The bike ran fine with 14V at ~2000rpm (I was letting the motor warm up). I saw 14.9V from 3500rpm and up but never passed 15V. I felt this was good since it charges at 14-15V anywhere above idle and I swear the stator cover feels cooler to the touch.

      My Triumph harness ($9.65 at Motorcycles of Dulles and most OEM online sources) came in so I headed out to the burbs to pick it up. Everything ran smoothly until it stalled as came to a stop in heavy traffic. Pulled onto the shoulder and couldn't get the starter to spin. I think the stalling is related to the carbs but that's another story. Something similar happened on the way to work a few days earlier. It stalled so I pulled over and hit the start button and it wouldn't spin. By the time I opened the seat, checked wiring, and tried the button again, it turned over like normal.

      In each no start situation, I get a click from the relay when I press the button. Battery voltage is fine (12.4V with key and run switch on). I get continuity between relay input and output terminals when I hit the button. But bridging the terminals doesn't spin the starter or even spark. I pulled the starter out this evening and hooked it up directly to my battery charger with ground on the starter mounting flange and positive on the terminal. No spin.

      I'm guessing this means my starter is dead. I sprayed the 2 long bolts with PB Blaster and I'm waiting to open it up and inspect it. Does this sound like I'm on the right path?


      Btw, I've concluded the Polaris R/R 4012941 is labelled SH775BA while the Seadoo R/R 710001103 is labelled SH775AA. And when I called Triumph of Dulles to ask them to ship me the R/R harness, they said they'd send it without charging me the $10 shipping charge. Great business!
      Last edited by hannibal; 11-16-2017, 07:36 PM. Reason: Corrected Polaris part number
      Jordan

      1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
      2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
      1973 BMW R75/5

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        #18
        Should that be Polaris # 4012941? Or 9012941? The 4 is what I always find. Perhaps that is not the BA, but rather a B? I wonder what the difference is?
        '77 GS750 920cc heavily modded
        '97 Kawasaki KDX220R rugged terrain ripper!
        '99 Kawasaki KDX220R​ rebuild in progress
        '79 GS425stock
        PROJECTS:
        '77 Suzuki PE250 woods racer
        '77 GS550 740cc major mods
        '77 GS400 489cc racer build
        '76 Rickman CR1000 GS1000/1100
        '78 GS1000C/1100

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          #19
          Chuck, you're right about the part number
          Jordan

          1977 Suzuki GS750 (My first bike)
          2000 Kawasaki ZRX1100
          1973 BMW R75/5

          Comment

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