Clutch lever/starter safety switch failing?

[glib]

After three and a half years without a glitch, I have had some problems starting that appear to be related to the clutch lever. Where is the switch that keeps the starter from getting power without the clutch being disengaged?

[chuck hahn]

Should be under the lever with a black oval plastic cover. Needs adjusted probably. Loosen the two screws and move the circuit board a little toward the end of the bars. tighten screws and retry.

[chuck hahn]

Or you can follow the wires down inside the headlight bucket and unplug the leads from the switch. Plug the leads from the wire harness into each other and be done with the clutch safety all together.

[glib]

Should be under the lever with a black oval plastic cover. Needs adjusted probably. Loosen the two screws and move the circuit board a little toward the end of the bars. tighten screws and retry.

Thank you Chuck. An easy fix--just how I like it. I would add that if you decide to open the switch and peek inside to see how it works--as I did--there is a teeny tiny spring that can easily be lost and then you would have to use method B (bypassing the switch).

[chuck hahn]

Whenever you open a clutch or front brake switch, take a big zip loc baggie and put it over the switch and then poke the screw driver through the bag. This way whatever falls out gets caught by the bag.

EDIT..you can also loosen the clamp bolts and rotate the assembly so the bottom is facing up as much as it will go. This is limited more on the brake master side due to the line only allowing so much rotation.

[glib]

Whenever you open a clutch or front brake switch, take a big zip loc baggie and put it over the switch and then poke the screw driver through the bag. This way whatever falls out gets caught by the bag.

EDIT..you can also loosen the clamp bolts and rotate the assembly so the bottom is facing up as much as it will go. This is limited more on the brake master side due to the line only allowing so much rotation.

Good hacks! I actually did rotate the assembly as you suggested. Had to turn the bars to the left to get enough slack. BTW, I learned the hard way with the front brake switch. Never found that little spring. (And there's no plan B for that one. I just ordered a new switch and was glad it was available. Bought a back-up too)!

[chuck hahn]

And when reassembling a switch a little dab of grease on the pin inside that black plastic thing will keep the spring from falling off and wont hurt anything. Not a ton but a little drop that will make the spring stick inside while you are putting it back together.

[glib]

And when reassembling a switch a little dab of grease on the pin inside that black plastic thing will keep the spring from falling off and wont hurt anything. Not a ton but a little drop that will make the spring stick inside while you are putting it back together.

Wish I'd done that. Hopefully it will be good for another 35 yrs.

[mrbill5491]

I by passed mine and never looked back.

[hillsy]

I've found over the years that the design of the GS brake light / clutch switch is possibly the worst switch design in the history of mankind.

[glib]

I've found over the years that the design of the GS brake light / clutch switch is possibly the worst switch design in the history of mankind.

And the brake light doesn’t do anything to warn you that it’s not working.

[glib]

I went ahead and bypassed the switch by simply pulling out the wires and connecting them. However while I have not been stranded since, the starting is still not 100%. The starter mostly starts perfectly but on occasion it may just give a turn and give up or do nothing. Feels like it could be the button. How do I diagnose the starter itself?

[850 Combat]

I've found those to be surprisingly filled with grit in the past. Brake switches too. Only 50,000 miles of 0 maintenance, and it was all filthy in there. Some of mine work, at least one is bypassed. The bypass is helpful when you have a choke cable that won't stay out, and no clothespin to put on it to hold it out.

[850 Combat]

I run a hot lead from the battery to the small wire connection on the Solenoid to test the switch circuit. If that works, the skinny wire circuit isn't right. I use one side of a jumper cable from the battery hot lead to the outlet side of the solenoid to test the starter. Or short the two heavy wires at the solenoid together with something like the handles on a pair of pliers. The kill switch is in that loop too, with the skinny wire, as is the ignition switch, so you can check the kill switch for dirt and corrosion too.