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Horn barely working - 1982 GS850GL

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    Horn barely working - 1982 GS850GL

    Hi,

    Seems to be a common problem. Press the horn button - hear a short wimpy beep.

    Note - did test the horn by bypassing the horn button and the horn blows good and loud.

    Have read that cleaning out the left switch assembly will resolve the issue. However can't find instructions on how to take it apart - specifically removing the pyramid a.k.a. the turn signal/high beam button.

    Did find some links in the Old Technical section, but the photos look to be disabled.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Thank you

    #2
    The horn works by a plate vibrating. You may need to adjust it or tune it to get the sound back to full volume.

    Yours may be a little different, but this should help.
    :cool:GSRick
    No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

    Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
    Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

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      #3
      I'd check out the horn relay mod.



      A lot of good information on Basscliff's page.
      Last edited by Guest; 02-23-2018, 03:07 AM.

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        #4
        Theres a Phillips screw and lock nut on the horn. Loosen lock nut, and while holding the horn button down turn the Phillips screw in or out to tune it.
        Current Rides: 82 GS1100E, 00 Triumph 955 Speed Triple:twistedevil:, 03 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 01 Honda GL1800, '15 Kawasaki 1000 Versys
        Past Rides: 72 Honda SL-125, Kawasaki KE-175, 77 GS750 with total yosh stage 1 kit, 79 GS1000s, 80 GS1000S, 82 GS750e,82 GS1000S, 84 VF500f, 86 FZR600, 95 Triumph Sprint 900,96 Triumph Sprint, 97 Triumph Sprint, 01 Kawasaki ZRX1200, 07 Triumph Tiger 1050, 01 Yam YFZ250F
        Work in progress: 78 GS1000, unknown year GS1100ES

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          #5
          If the horn needed tuned, would it make a different sound whenever he applies voltage direct from the battery?

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            #6
            Originally posted by jdion81 View Post
            If the horn needed tuned, would it make a different sound whenever he applies voltage direct from the battery?
            Good question, I missed where he bypassed the switch.
            :cool:GSRick
            No God, no peace. Know God, know peace.

            Eric Bang RIP 9/5/2018
            Have some bikes ready for us when we meet up.

            Comment


              #7
              Once you remove the switchblock from the bike it's reasonably apparent how it all disassembles once you look inside it. Good idea to grab a large zip-lock bag and unscrew the components inside that if you are uncertain about the process - this will stop small pieces flying across the room if you muck up.
              Current:
              Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha :eek:)

              Past:
              VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
              And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....

              Comment


                #8
                Going through a similar problem myself.

                I found that there was a voltage drop in the wiring that meant I was only getting 9 - 10v at the horn. This was eventually traced to a dirty connector on the fuse box. Even though the box is new it was an old spade terminal.

                So check and clean all the wiring in the system. On my '80 850GL there are 2 block connectors under the tank, one in the headlight and the fuse terminals.

                Once I fit my new stator my horns will need a retune as I've been messing with them.
                The continuing renovation of a GS850L

                Comment


                  #9
                  I had the horn stop working on an FJ1200 and it ended up being a corroded horn switch / button. Cleaned it up and all is well.

                  It's either the switch or the wiring. Easiest to start with cleaning the switch.
                  Current:
                  Z1300A5 Locomotive (swapped my Intruder for it), GS450 Cafe Project (might never finish it....), XT500 Commuter (I know - it's a Yamaha :eek:)

                  Past:
                  VL1500 Intruder (swapped for Z1300), ZX9R Streetfighter (lets face it - too fast....), 1984 GSX750EF, 1984 GSX1100EF (AKA GS1150)
                  And a bunch of other crap Yamahas....

                  Comment


                    #10
                    After all that, if your horn STILL does not sound quite the way you want, make sure you have something close to battery voltage at the green wire at the horn. Note that the green wire is live all the time when the key is ON. If you have close to battery voltage (within a volt or so), and your horn(s) simply cant' be tuned to your satisfaction, go down to your local auto parts store and get a couple horns.

                    Check the horns carefully. If you are lucky, they will have two terminals, like the stock horns. If they don't, you will need to install a relay, which isn't all that hard, and will positively ensure that you get full voltage to the horns. Let us know what you find, we can guide you from there.

                    .
                    sigpic
                    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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                      #11
                      There is a lot of heat on those wires. It causes a lot of problems. I cut my brittle wires back and spliced in new wire and connections in it's place The horn went from a weak bleep to loud enough to have the inspector jump when he tried the horn.
                      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hi,

                        Looks like a lot of folks have been down this path. Thanks for your help.

                        Here's what was done before starting the thread;

                        1. Stock configuration - wimpy short inconsistent beep.
                        2. Disconnect stock negative wire to horn and jumped a separate wire from the horn button to the horn - wimpy short inconsistent beep.
                        3. Disconnect stock negative wire to horn and jumped a separate wire from the battery's negative terminal to the horn. Loud constant 'get out of my way' beep. Horn is good!

                        Following those two tests, it lead me to believe there's resistance with the horn button.

                        After reading some of the responses from this thread, I did try adjusting the sound and was able to get a somewhat audible/constant beep. Guess it would pass an inspection, but know it could be better.

                        Thinking the next step is to go through the left turn sign assembly. How does one remove the turn signal button? Is it screwed in, pulled out or another method?

                        Thanks for the help.
                        Last edited by Guest; 02-23-2018, 10:04 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by hillsy View Post
                          Once you remove the switchblock from the bike it's reasonably apparent how it all disassembles once you look inside it. Good idea to grab a large zip-lock bag and unscrew the components inside that if you are uncertain about the process - this will stop small pieces flying across the room if you muck up.
                          I second this. I recently rebuilt both switches on my 1982 Kat. The turn signal switch has a few very small springs that can jump if you're not careful. The ziplock bag contained everything nicely.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You may want to look at the horn itself. I've gotten a few working by dousing them with PB Blaster while powering them, on the bench and working the tuning adjustment screw. They can get really dirty and corroded inside.
                            2002 bmw r1150gs 1978 gs1000E skunk les pew 1979 gs1000L dragbike
                            82 gs1100L probably the next project
                            1980 gs1000G the ugly 1978 gs750E need any parts?
                            https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=m_m2oYJkx1A
                            1978 gs1000E skunk #2 RLAP
                            https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2f1debec_t.jpg

                            Comment


                              #15
                              New 150dbs high pitch horn, add relay and done. Cleaning the switch wouldn't hurt yeah. Since I did this to my bike, I have one hell'va loud horn, not that whimpy stock eeeeeppp.
                              sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
                              1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
                              2015 CAN AM RTS


                              Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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