Solder vs. Butt Connector on hot for Coil Mod

[fixmybrokecomputer]

No special tools needed with these. Good for folks that don't want to solder.

https://www.posi-products.com/positite.html

Crimping really is the way to go if you spend the bucks to buy a nice crimper and OEM style crimp connectors.

[jswhite]

Also, you might want to take a good look at your coil. Is that dirt or a crack?


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Thanks for the heads up on the coil, looks like it is a scrape from the previous owner. Heres a pic
IMG_7067.jpg

[jswhite]

Assuming that is the single wire coming from the kill switch on the left and the other wires go to the coils and ignitor, you will want to cut the single wire, to the left of that junction. Connect the kill switch wire to #86 on the relay, connect the coil side of the wire to #87. Terminal #30 will go to a fused power wire, #85 will connect to a good ground.





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This clarification helps with the way I'm thinking about it.
Here's a diagram I drew up, so this is what it should look like right? Tried to be clear as possible. I need to cut on the Kill switch/starter button side of the Orange/white wire and route the kill switch side to #86, and the coil/ignitor side to terminal #87
IMG_7068.jpg

[jswhite]

I got some 16G wire and wrapped it together per the video and it took 5 min of holding the solder gun to the wire to get this result. The solder just wouldnt melt. Since soldering isnt too successful, I'm thinking at this point I will just butt splice ( I have good crimp pliers) the wires and wrap well in electrical tape. Dont want to screw up the wiring with a bad solder job.
IMG_7066.jpg

[cowboyup3371]

Did you let the gun heat up first before starting on it or just go straight at it?

[jswhite]

Did you let the gun heat up first before starting on it or just go straight at it?

Yea I let it heat up enough to have the solder melt when it hit the gun. Maybe its just that its harbor freight? next project I can mess around more. I kinda have a timeline for the bike and this one unfortunately.

[bwringer]

Do we have GS bat-signal somewhere? Anyone in IL who can help?

[hillsy]

Why do you think there are typically no soldered joints in pretty much all wire harnesses?

Probably because in a production line scenario it's far easier / quicker / safer to crimp connections than to solder them.

[jswhite]

Do we have GS bat-signal somewhere? Anyone in IL who can help?

hahahha yes.
Well since I'm going to go with crimping for this project, all I need now is someone to confirm the diagram I drew up and I should be able to get this thing finished. The write ups are super helpful, but when ripping apart my own, there are always other questions that pop up.
I'll have to mess around with the solder iron and wire after too see what I'm doing wrong.
IMG_7068.jpg

[Steve]

Yes, the diagram looks good, as long as you don't forget terminals 30 and 85.

You keep saying "gun" when referring to your soldering tool. Which model do you have?

Most "guns" are rather powerful, at least 100 watts or more. You should only need a 25-40 watt IRON to do those wires.
Yeah, it might take about 5 minutes for the iron to heat up, but once it is up to temperature, it won't even take 5 SECONDS of contact time to get the solder to flow. By the way, what solder are you using?

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[Fjbj40]

Probably because in a production line scenario it's far easier / quicker / safer to crimp connections than to solder them.

And, more reliable, less prone to failure, lighter, cheaper, the list is long. The most important thing is high quality tooling to ensure the proper crimp. I use some manual crimpers at work that cost close to $1000, including support tooling such as different jaws and etc.

[drey6]

I got some 16G wire and wrapped it together per the video and it took 5 min of holding the solder gun to the wire to get this result. The solder just wouldnt melt. Since soldering isnt too successful, I'm thinking at this point I will just butt splice ( I have good crimp pliers) the wires and wrap well in electrical tape. Dont want to screw up the wiring with a bad solder job.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]54533[/ATTACH]

What brand of solder and type are you using? I’ve bought auto parts store solder that was stating it was 60/40 (insert generic auto store brand name) but WOULD NOT melt. I only use this brand and type now https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...7789/100494070

Im sure there are other trusted brands of solder but I found this to be the best I’ve used with this solder gun below.
”Weller D550PK 120-volt 260/200-watt Professional Soldering Gun Kit” (was cheaper at Home Depot, or was a comparable Weller Gun)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N7S1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cIcZAbN2MVCD2

[jswhite]

Yes, the diagram looks good, as long as you don't forget terminals 30 and 85.

You keep saying "gun" when referring to your soldering tool. Which model do you have?

Most "guns" are rather powerful, at least 100 watts or more. You should only need a 25-40 watt IRON to do those wires.
Yeah, it might take about 5 minutes for the iron to heat up, but once it is up to temperature, it won't even take 5 SECONDS of contact time to get the solder to flow. By the way, what solder are you using?

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Thanks! I ended up finishing last night, checked the spark this morning. Very weak. Looks like I'm on the chase now to see whats going on.

[Wingsconsin]

After reading this entire thread I will make a few observations -

I think it is called a "Union Splice" - more indicative of the style of attachment than a wire company.
This type of splice is very solid when the solder is allowed to run into the joint AND then covered with a shrink tube tightly holding the wires from getting wet and corrosion. - I think sometimes we put too much emphasis on pretty rather than functional-- IF the splice is tight ; and the solder runs into the joint, and the shrink tube covers it nicely ---

I have also used crimped connections on several bikes that lasted years with out issues - but my crimps are tight and covered in ..shrink tube. ..hmmm...?

In a few occasions I have used a crimp connector , and soldered it together , before I used ...shrink tube.... (again..?)

Last year I put new coils on my GS850GL due to it running SO poorly when wet outside (not even raining - just humid)
THAT was a worthy upgrade -- NEW COILS - NEW CRIMPED or SOLDERED connections, NEW WIRES and CAPS and PLUGS ..
(shrink tube?)

Keep asking questions - the tribal knowledge here will astound you - once you get it sorted out -
Remember everyone likes to do things THEIR way -- and it may not be right for you .
Strive to understand the WHY concept of the advice and you will learn how to do it YOUR way .

LUCK and SAFE RIDES in your future.

[jswhite]

After reading this entire thread I will make a few observations -

I think it is called a "Union Splice" - more indicative of the style of attachment than a wire company.
This type of splice is very solid when the solder is allowed to run into the joint AND then covered with a shrink tube tightly holding the wires from getting wet and corrosion. - I think sometimes we put too much emphasis on pretty rather than functional-- IF the splice is tight ; and the solder runs into the joint, and the shrink tube covers it nicely ---

I have also used crimped connections on several bikes that lasted years with out issues - but my crimps are tight and covered in ..shrink tube. ..hmmm...?

In a few occasions I have used a crimp connector , and soldered it together , before I used ...shrink tube.... (again..?)

Last year I put new coils on my GS850GL due to it running SO poorly when wet outside (not even raining - just humid)
THAT was a worthy upgrade -- NEW COILS - NEW CRIMPED or SOLDERED connections, NEW WIRES and CAPS and PLUGS ..
(shrink tube?)

Keep asking questions - the tribal knowledge here will astound you - once you get it sorted out -
Remember everyone likes to do things THEIR way -- and it may not be right for you .
Strive to understand the WHY concept of the advice and you will learn how to do it YOUR way .

LUCK and SAFE RIDES in your future.

This is helpful! Looks like my plug wires are epoxy'd into the coils so if I want to change the wires, the coils will have to be changed too. What kind of coils did you go with?

Thanks! I'm really excited for getting this thing on the road! First it needs to heat up a bit, this whole snowing in April thing, I am not a fan of. I'm assuming you are getting some of the same up in WI.