Cheapest route to replace bummed ignitor box?

[Guest]

Pretty much what the title says, Just need to replace a bummed ignitor. I've seen many mentions of different ignition systems just not sure what exactly that entails or if a cheap used box would be the cheapest route. I'm on a 1982 GS650GL. Thanks in advance.

[gsrick]

Pretty much what the title says, Just need to replace a bummed ignitor. I've seen many mentions of different ignition systems just not sure what exactly that entails or if a cheap used box would be the cheapest route. I'm on a 1982 GS650GL. Thanks in advance.

Search the used parts section for a good used one for the easiest route, but I think Dyna may have system that may also work, but it's costly. I've never used it, but I think others here have.

[tom203]

Well, if you're convinced about your bad ignitor, get the dyna.. For the 650 shafty, you have to make cutout in dyna mounting plate to clear oil sender (that's probably why it ain't listed)

https://www.z1enterprises.com/dyna-s-ignition-ds3-2-gs-fours-w-nd-ignition.html

you're the second guy this week with a bad 650 ignitor...I'm skeptical,but who knows. In this same forum section, read rocket66katana's issues.

[leftlostcommonsense]

Thank you for the help. I'm convinced it's the ignitor because The bike was running then it died and after it died there is absolutely now power going to the coils although everything else is working and tests fine with a brand new battery. Trigger is fine, coils are fine, all connections are fine everything else works the motor trys to start just no spark. When I unplug the harness going to the ignitor I get 12.60 volts at the coils but with the ignitor harness hooked up I'm only getting .5 - 2 volts. I've cleaned and checked every single connection including those in the headlight bucket so it's not a connection. There's not much else I can think of that's wrong and would cause absolutely no spark. If there's something else I'm missing that would be in the line between battery and coils that would cause such a voltage drop that would be fixed by unplugging the ignitor please let me know. Lol I'm stumped as to how it would go out I sprayed the bike off the same day but avoided everything between the carbs and back tire and when I pulled the regulator and ignitor plate out it was covered in 35 years worth of dirt and grime from the bottom of the air box so it appeared to not have gotten wet ever but who knows. I even put the ignitor in the oven on 120 for an hour or so thinking maybe it would dry out any moisture but nope still a no go.

[tom203]

"When I unplug the harness going to the ignitor I get 12.60 volts at the coils but with the ignitor harness hooked up I'm only getting .5 - 2 volts"

I'm not sure if this means much... With ignition on, the ignitor is passing current to at least one of the ignition coils, (so there would be a voltage drop) . During crankover/running ,the signal coil triggers the ignitor causing current to stop flowing ,thereby making a spark. Just like a set of points opening.
have you tried running a jumper wire from battery positive to the orange/white wire that feeds the ignition coils and the ignitor? This bypasses all the suspect connections.

[leftlostcommonsense]

I've not tried running a jumper wire but I have checked voltage at the coils and have absolutely nothing there when the key is on nor any jump in voltage when I hit the starter while the ignitor is plugged in. I unplug the ignitor and have the same voltage at coils as I do testing post to post on the battery so my only guess is the ignitor itself is the weak link somehow staying grounded constantly instead of letting the current through to the coils. Everything else checks out as it should as far as I can tell. Coils are 4.5 on primary and 12-13k on secondary from my understanding that's pretty typical. The trigger checked out as it should too. My understanding is the ignitor is supposed to allow the full 12v through at all times when the key is on and temporarily cuts power when it receives a signal from the trigger therefore creating a spark through the coils to grounded plugs in the head. Am I right? I've already ordered the dyna s so I will find out if I got it right once I remove trigger and ignitor from the equation. The dyna s is compatible with stock coils right? How would you suggest making the cutout for the oil sender? I doubt tin snips would be strong enough think a sanding pad on a 4 inch grinder would take it down enough as long as no wires are damaged? Just trying to get ideas as to how to go about it.

[tom203]

Bunch of ways to make nice half moon cutout....pic shows neatness on a 450 ( has similar oil sender location). I'd probably use a decent 1 1/4 inch diameter hole saw in drill press.

[Bearr045]

In reference to replacing ignitor box. I have the following scenario . I replaced stator, R/R, Accel coils set ALL new. Also replaced CDI with a used one since the original one was not working. To date ,after 3 months of dealing with issue and total 3 boxes replaced, (they all heated to touch and finally fried). My thought and question on the issue is: would installing a Dyna or any other adjustable CDI box solve the issue or ?

[Bearr045]

In reference to replacing ignitor box. I have the following scenario . I replaced stator, R/R, Accel coils set ALL new. Also replaced CDI with a used one since the original one was not working. To date ,after 3 months of dealing with issue and total 3 boxes replaced, (they all heated to touch and finally fried). My thought and question on the issue is: would installing a Dyna or any other adjustable CDI box solve the issue or ? 1980 Suzuki GS850GL.

[Nessism]

In reference to replacing ignitor box. I have the following scenario . I replaced stator, R/R, Accel coils set ALL new. Also replaced CDI with a used one since the original one was not working. To date ,after 3 months of dealing with issue and total 3 boxes replaced, (they all heated to touch and finally fried). My thought and question on the issue is: would installing a Dyna or any other adjustable CDI box solve the issue or ? 1980 Suzuki GS850GL.

What is the charging system voltage? BTW, your bike doesn't have a CDI.

[leftlostcommonsense]

In reference to replacing ignitor box. I have the following scenario . I replaced stator, R/R, Accel coils set ALL new. Also replaced CDI with a used one since the original one was not working. To date ,after 3 months of dealing with issue and total 3 boxes replaced, (they all heated to touch and finally fried). My thought and question on the issue is: would installing a Dyna or any other adjustable CDI box solve the issue or ? 1980 Suzuki GS850GL.

My advice would be to install dyna s and clean/replace any and all connectors. I thought my ignitor box got fried but my problem stemmed from from a break in the output line coming from the kill switch. It showed 12v at the coils with the ignitor unplugged but wasn't able to carry the ignitor and coils so I was only getting 2v at the coils when ignitor was plugged in...dyna s all the way my friend but you absolutely must make sure all your connections are good along with charging. My output (orange/white) wire from killswitch was broken in the very middle of the insulation on the harness coming from the kill switch so I didn't detect it until I got to rubbing the harness down and luckily was able to feel something didn't feel right so i cut into it and sure enough the wire was cut in two...more than likely my ignitor still works. If your fuse box gets warm at all after running the bike kill it and find the short..just a word of wisdom before it catches on fire...fuse box should not get warm at all from current, not hot anyhow. If you're not blowing fuses it's a broken wire, atleast that's what my deal was. There is always the possibility you fubbed up wiring everything you replaced though so IDK. Hope you get it sorted my friend i know it's frustrating. Dyna has fixed every electrical problem I had since install and everything on my bike is still stock except the dyna and the connectors I replaced. Don't plug into a line that goes into the headlights/taillights/or blinkers.Try to use the original ignition fuse with the orange white wire going to the coils for your 12v to the dyna along with a 10amp inline on the dyna unit itself. That's what I did anyhow. As far as the black and white wires that go to the negative posts on the coils I just ran new wires and did away with the wires in the original harness. From the sound of your problems I'm led to think you've either hooked something up wrong or there's a short. It may be time to unwrap every harness from the battery to the killswitch and check/replace/clean anything that may be an issue. Do you have power to the coils at all? Hook a volt meter to the positive terminal on the coil and ground and see what your readings are you should have 12 there with the key on and the ignitor hooked up. If not then we can go from there. I'm no guru but this problem had me by the balls for a minute and have a very good knowledge of how things are supposed to be now concerning pickups, coils, and ignitor.

[leftlostcommonsense]

BTW I have a promo from a certified distributor if you do happen to go with the dyna hit me up I may be able to save you a few $. You'll have the factory 1 year warranty and everything unless you choose to pay for the extended 3 year or whatever but I wouldn't. PM if you're interested.

[leftlostcommonsense]

Just in case you're still confused, the dyna s will replace points/pickups and ignitor altogether as long as you have the mechanic advance. It's pretty much plug and play as long as your wiring is good. You could even hook straight up to the existing wires connected to your coils as long as you have switched 12v at the coils. I'm not sure if your bike has the oil sending unit under the points cover below the pickups plate but it's an easy task to cut out the little bit you need to clear it. You won't be disapointed with the overall performance. I must also state I am in no way affiliated with dyna I am just a very impressed consumer lol. I do have another ignitor box you're more than welcome to try for a deposit of $100. If it doesn't work send it back you get the $100 minus shipping if you decide to keep it I keep your $100 minus shipping.

[Bearr045]

@ left ...thanks for your advice, I did find the cause of the short . When I opened the kill switch enclosure saw the two wires were rubbing against each other! solved that part by resoldering separating and properly insulating. bike starts and cdi runs cool no cutting out after 3-5 mins. runs anymore! I'm still set on replacing box with a Dyna S, read somewhere on this forum somebody was offering one for $100 I'd be willing to buy it. One question though remains, is the Dyna s compatible with the Accel 140404 performance coils I have? Love those coils I installed also on my 82' Yamaha XJ650 Maxim starts quick ( saves battery) and runs smooth, never needed to change anything else electrical on it, but that's another story.