New regulator, stator tests good, but low charging voltage

[posplayr]

If you go to Suzukipartshouse.com and look at the exploded diagrams, they list 2 different rotors and 2 different stators for the 82-83 model 1100. They also list 2 different crankshaft ends where the rotor presses on. The rotor that has the 9 rivets is listed for the D model and the D model also has a different stator. The D model (big end crank) has rotor 31402-49330, and stator 31401-09300. The Z model (small end crank) has rotor 31402-49310, and stator 31401-49310.

Unless you are doing a factory restoration (including a welded crank on an EZ) that is functionally irrelevant information.

[Cipher]

could the oem stator in new condition with new rotor produce greeter than 12.4 at off idle?

[posplayr]

could the oem stator in new condition with new rotor produce greeter than 12.4 at off idle?

It depends. On my 1983 GS1100E with a fresh stator and OEM rotor, the balance point between charging and discharging was somewhere around 1200 RPM. For a fresh battery that means the output voltage is about 12.8V in which case nothing is being pushed to the battery. The voltage will rise rapidly above that RPM and you might be well in excess of 13V by the time you hit 1400 RPM. See typical numbers form the Quick test proceedure.

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)

[Paul.S]

Update: I found out my rotor magnet was not cracked. These rotors have 12 magnets in them not 4 like I thought. The 4 magnet looking things you see are like a plastic cover or something that goes over the magnets to keep them in place. It was that cover that was cracked, not the magnet. So, I did not change my rotor. I then compared the new Suzuki gs1150 stator to my old one and realized the old stator was a different brand as it had different colored wires and different numbers stamped into it. It was probably an off brand. So, with the new stator and compu-fire regulator I have 12.5V at idle high beam and about 12.6-12.7 idle low beam. At 5000 rpm low beam it is about 13.3 and slowly climbing (I only held it at 5000 for about 3 seconds). I forgot to mention the last stator would drop to less than 12V after a drive so it should be fixed as I tested the new one when hot. Also, check out how nice these weatherpack terminals turned out on the stator wires. I bought the tool made by delphi for the weatherpack connectors. It crimps the seal and wire all in one step. Worked great!

[posplayr]

You should flow some solder into those crimps; without mine got hot after about s year

the relationship between charging voltages in the quick test provides a good infication of charging health.

[suziscrambler]

To OP- can you please advise where you got your new R/R from? I am trying to source but not sure if it is the right one. Thanks

[posplayr]

To OP- can you please advise where you got your new R/R from? I am trying to source but not sure if it is the right one. Thanks

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?191795-GS-Stator

[Paul.S]

To OP- can you please advise where you got your new R/R from? I am trying to source but not sure if it is the right one. Thanks

I found it along with most of my parts on Ebay. Just find the correct part# and type it in. Find the correct part #s on suzukipartshouse.com

[suziscrambler]

Oh my bad - i thought you were running an aftermarket R/R like a Sh775 or something.