Interpreting My Quick Test

[bccap]

I think the others are correct, Garth. If that 7V is what is registering when cranking it is toast. +1 on the absorbed glass mat battery. I will never go back to a wet cell if I have the choice.

Does this mean you are going to be riding more this season?

I think so Derrick. I'm still weak but getting stronger so hopefully we can go for a ride sometime. Just putting air in the tires wasn't easy as I can't get it up on the center stand to rotate the tires. Took me twenty minutes to wheel it around to get the tires pumped up and climbing up the side of the bike to get back on my feet again. A video of it would probably have been a bit comical LOL. I'm going to call Edmonds and see if they have an AGM for my bike in a few minutes....

[Kiwi Canuck]

Garth, I've picked up a Sealed Lead Acid battery up for you from Edmonds, $59.00 your cost, retail was $99.00

I'll be at the shop in the AM

BTW., all Gel and AGM Batteries come fully charged so you don't have to wait for them.

David

[bccap]

Garth, I've picked up a Sealed Lead Acid battery up for you from Edmonds, $59.00 your cost, retail was $99.00

I'll be at the shop in the AM

BTW., all Gel and AGM Batteries come fully charged so you don't have to wait for them.

David

Thanks David. I'll connect with you in the morning.....

[earlfor]

I think it is about a 99% chance your battery is toast. A battery is only about 25% charged at 12.2 volts and fully charged at about 12.8. Anything less than 12 volts is dead as in no capacity to do anything.

[bccap]

I think it is about a 99% chance your battery is toast. A battery is only about 25% charged at 12.2 volts and fully charged at about 12.8. Anything less than 12 volts is dead as in no capacity to do anything.

I hope you are right. It was 12.6 with the key on and with the lights and 12.2 with the key off. I just pulled it off the charger and it's 13,2 which I think is expected a few seconds after taking it off the charger. I'm hoping it is the " load " when starting that is the problem with the battery. The only other possibility is something between the starter being a poor connection or the starter itself. I'm about to find out when I ride over to pick up the new battery from David in a little bit.

[bccap]

Oops.... Make that the other way around. 12.6 with the key off and and 12.2 with the key on and lights........

[leftlostcommonsense]

Sorry to hear about your state as far as health goes. They still sell those old batteries you gotta wait on charging? When looking for a battery on my bike I saw only 1 listing for one of the old type and it came from china everything else was sealed and ready to go. I'm new to bikes altogether though so don't know though. I surely didn't want a tube that could boil acid over onto the frame causing more rust than I already dealt with lol. Either way I wouldn't go back to the dealership. You drove the bike there, it ran while it was there for them to be able to test it while on the old battery still and to my understanding is still running for you to test it. I understand if you didn't want to wait on a charge of a new battery but can't say I woulda payed them for basically nothing either. Dealerships stay in business by fixing non-existent problems because no one is buying a bike daily and they're too expensive to be a regular shop unless it's small or you have warranty. I don't know the type of people there where you're at but $20 and waiting long enough on the right person to come through will get me home within 20-30 miles easily just gotta wait on someone to stop or call someone to come get me. That's US southern hospitality along with almost everyone owning a large truck though. Either way my friend it sounds like your bike is in working condition other than a battery get that sealed battery I saw someone offer you for $60 and get on the road and off the forum worrying something's wrong.

[posplayr]

Oops.... Make that the other way around. 12.6 with the key off and and 12.2 with the key on and lights........

If you stay above 12V with key ON and headlamp ON, your battery is good.
That combined is equal to about 10 amps.

From Quick test:

Basically Step #1 and #2 is making sure the battery is charged and in good health. The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp and coil load (without cranking the starter). Anymore than 0.5V drop indicates the battery is weak even though the static voltage is OK (12.7-12.8V). If your battery is any lower it can have an effect on your charging voltages as the charging system only has so much capacity and will be drug down by a poor battery.

[posplayr]

I think it is about a 99% chance your battery is toast. A battery is only about 25% charged at 12.2 volts and fully charged at about 12.8. Anything less than 12 volts is dead as in no capacity to do anything.

This is only true under NO LOAD conditions. A fully charged battery in good condition will drop to 12.2 under 10 amp load.

[bccap]

If you stay above 12V with key ON and headlamp ON, your battery is good.
That combined is equal to about 10 amps.

From Quick test:

Basically Step #1 and #2 is making sure the battery is charged and in good health. The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp and coil load (without cranking the starter). Anymore than 0.5V drop indicates the battery is weak even though the static voltage is OK (12.7-12.8V). If your battery is any lower it can have an effect on your charging voltages as the charging system only has so much capacity and will be drug down by a poor battery.

What about the load using the starter motor ? As in not cranking strongly for very long and discharging as it sits. This battery is 7 years old and was boiled dry the first week I had it due to a failed R/R. And I mean dry. I turned it upside down and nothing came out. The dealer told me I didn't need electrolyte because it was still in there and to just fill it up with distilled water which I did. I've got a new sealed battery but I probably won't get around to putting it in today. But I am curious about rapid discharge of the old battery when cranking.....

[posplayr]

What about the load using the starter motor ? As in not cranking strongly for very long and discharging as it sits. This battery is 7 years old and was boiled dry the first week I had it due to a failed R/R. And I mean dry. I turned it upside down and nothing came out. The dealer told me I didn't need electrolyte because it was still in there and to just fill it up with distilled water which I did. I've got a new sealed battery but I probably won't get around to putting it in today. But I am curious about rapid discharge of the old battery when cranking.....

Your starter could be dragging and you could have a short neither of which is NOT a battery problem. If the bike runs (coils are OK) and your lights come on you can be pretty sure you have a 10 amp load. That should not drop the battery below 12V. You can take the battery to an auto store and have them load test it to be sure.

[bccap]

Your starter could be dragging and you could have a short neither of which is NOT a battery problem. If the bike runs (coils are OK) and your lights come on you can be pretty sure you have a 10 amp load. That should not drop the battery below 12V. You can take the battery to an auto store and have them load test it to be sure.

Question ?

Just installed the new sealed battery. Strong cranking and took some readings as per your Quick Test

Key off 12.6 volts
Key on 12.2 volts
idle at 1500 13.8 volts
2500 rpm 14.3 volts
5000 rpm 14.3 volts

Then after warming the bike up it's pretty much 14.1 at idle and 14.3 every where else. Is this anything I need to investigate further ? The readings are higher at low revs than in your Quick Test.

[posplayr]

Question ?

Just installed the new sealed battery. Strong cranking and took some readings as per your Quick Test

Key off 12.6 volts
Key on 12.2 volts
idle at 1500 13.8 volts
2500 rpm 14.3 volts
5000 rpm 14.3 volts

Then after warming the bike up it's pretty much 14.1 at idle and 14.3 every where else. Is this anything I need to investigate further ? The readings are higher at low revs than in your Quick Test.

You just have a high idle which raises those voltages. Looks good.

[bccap]

You just have a high idle which raises those voltages. Looks good.

Thanks.........

[hillsy]

Take your bike back to the dealer with your multimeter and show them the CORRECT readings....