Need link to most simple installation possible of SERIES Shindengen SH-775 R/R

[maicojoe]

Ok, I did some searching and reading on the installation of a modern SERIES Shindengen SH-775 R/R .........
I appreciate all the effort and time put into all the posts about the GS charging systems, but the shear volume that is on here is overwhelming . I have a low mile 1982 GS1100e, with a virgin bone stock never touched or molested wiring system. The only thing I have done electrically to the bike is last year I put a new AGM battery in it. The only thing I want to do today is install a new off the shelf SH-775 R/R for peace of mind. Nothing else, just mount it and wire it, and forget about it. I do not want look at or test or tear apart or rewire the bike front to rear, just install the new R/R. What I am looking for is a link to, or an as brief as possible description on how to mount and wire the new R/R, with maybe a picture or two. Thanks in advance to all help or point to link in advance. Joe

[hillsy]

Try this:

[Steve]

1. Remove your stock R/R, noting where the wires connect.
2. Locate your three stator wires. Two of them probably connect directly to the R/R, the third one disappears into the harness. It will re-appear and go to the R/R.
3. Install the new R/R.
4. Connect all three stator wires directly to the three input terminals on the R/R.
5. Connect the "+" output wire to the red wire that was connected to the original R/R.
6. Connect the "-" output wire to a good ground. If you are using the "single point ground" system, connect it there. Otherwise, connect it to the battery and/or the chassis.

.

[maicojoe]

Thanks guys, this is what I was looking for. Joe

[GSXR7ED]

Good info here...thanks fellas!


Ed

[posplayr]

Try this:

Gee whiz, hope the OP doesn't think he is supposed to hook + up to the battery without a fuse? It could cause some smoke is the R/R were to internally short.

[wymple]

He did ask for the most simple installation possible......

[Himble]

Gee whiz, hope the OP doesn't think he is supposed to hook + up to the battery without a fuse? It could cause some smoke is the R/R were to internally short.

If he follows Steve's post along with the simple schematic, then it's shouldn't be an issue.

[Steve]

He did ask for the most simple installation possible......

One should also presume "most simple PROPER installation possible".

.

[Nessism]

A bunch of the Kawasaki KZ bikes run the R/R + out straight to the battery (sans fuse) and I've never once heard of that creating an in-service problem.


KZ RR.JPG

[posplayr]

A bunch of the Kawasaki KZ bikes run the R/R + out straight to the battery (sans fuse) and I've never once heard of that creating an in-service problem.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]55007[/ATTACH]

The reason I mention the Fuse between the battery and the R/R is for a very specific reason. The R/R could potentially short. Unless you think a piece of electronics can't short on a KZ, then it is imprudent to write the R/R as you showed. If you did not know a MOSFET's primary failure mode is to SHORT by 9 or 10 v.s. going open 1 in 10. A SH-775 is an SCR type (a bipolar design which tends to have the opposite failure statistics).

[Nessism]

The reason I mention the Fuse between the battery and the R/R is for a very specific reason. The R/R could potentially short. Unless you think a piece of electronics can't short on a KZ, then it is imprudent to write the R/R as you showed. If you did not know a MOSFET's primary failure mode is to SHORT by 9 or 10 v.s. going open 1 in 10. A SH-775 is an SCR type (a bipolar design which tends to have the opposite failure statistics).

Okay, fair enough. I did not know there was such a drastic difference in failure mode.

[posplayr]

Okay, fair enough. I did not know there was such a drastic difference in failure mode.

What is most important is the consequence of the short whether Bipolar or FET. The battery would have a very; low impedance to ground with only a melted copper to stop the flow.

[maicojoe]

Ok, I can put good quality inline fuse for the + battery to R/R. What amperage and recommended gauge wire?

[Steve]

Ideally, you should connect the + output of the R/R to the stock red wire. That way, you don't need to change anything, the stock 15 amp MAIN fuse will be just fine.

If, however, you wish to change the function of the fusebox and wire the R/R directly to the battery, you need to use at least a 25 amp fuse. If you do this, please do your bike a favor. Clean ALL the connections in the fusebox. In stock configuration, the 15 amp MAIN fuse carries just a bit less than 15 amps from the time you turn the key ON until you get the bike running. Because the stock R/R connection joins the harness between the fusebox and the ignition switch, the R/R provides power to the ignition switch, which then comes back to power the other fuses in the fusebox, and what ever is left over (R/R output minus what the bike needs to run) is sent back through the MAIN fuse to charge the battery. That "left over" current might only be 5-10 amps, depending on what the bike needs. If you run the R/R output directly to the battery, ALL the current to run the bike will go through the MAIN fuse ALL the time. If the connections are not perfectly clean, the extra current means extra heat.

.