Intermittent starting

[Guest]

Sometimes my bike gs500e, 1998 won't start, press starter button and nothing. Then a second later I press starter button and it's starts no issues. It also refuses to start if either side, main or full beam is on.

[Phred]

Check the wiring from the starter button down. Had that issue and it was a loose connection in the wiring in the headlight bucket.

[mickmie]

Will give that a try, have already dismantled the switch on the bar. Checked battery etc

[Steve]

Make sure you have a good ground (earth) for your starter solenoid.

Does your bike have the "safety" interlock switch on the clutch that requires you to pull the lever to engage the starter?
If so, make sure it's working properly or bypass it, like many of us have done.

.

[mickmie]

Will have a look and make sure ground is good, only havethis bike a few weeks. Got rid of my virago as it was nothing but hassle. Will take a bit of time to find where all the parts are onthis new bike.

[mickmie]

Is it possible to download manuals from the forum??

[tom203]

Is it possible to download manuals from the forum??

Sure..this Basscliff guy has lots - might not have the exact one...

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

[Redman]

Assuming you do have to hold clutch to start: Next time when pushing the button doesnt engage the starter, try wiggling the clutch lever while still holding the button.
THe clutch interlock swtich (on bottom of clutch lever) may need to be adjusted (loosen screw and move around) or might need to be taken apart and cleaned, or replaced, or bypassed.

>>> later note
Oh, a 1998, I didnt realize it was that NEW.

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[mickmie]

>>> later note
Oh, a 1998, I didnt realize it was that NEW.

.

Yeah it came in a lovely box with a very shiny wrapper.

[fixmybrokecomputer]

Had the same issue with my GS1100GK. Last year I pulled the clutch lockout switch. It was just worn out. Replaced with one from my parts bike and all is good. Your bike does have a clutch switch on it. You can do as Steve suggested and just bypass it or buy another. Here is the switch on Ron Ayers website. Good luck!

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/37560-38a00/switch-assy-clutch

[mickmie]

Clutch switch had already been bypassed, checked the wiring in the headlight, specifically the wire from the handlebar controls. Also opened the handle bar switch and cleaned all the components, still none the wiser. Tried bike again and it still won't start with lights on. Starting to suspect the battery could be the issue.

[Steve]

To help verify that it's a battery issue, use jumper cables connected to your car, but make sure the car is NOT RUNNING.

Another way (that does not include the use of a car) is to simply use a voltmeter. Connect it to the battery, you should see just over 12.5 volts on a fully-charged battery. With the key ON (and before pushing the start button), you should see about 12 volts. When you push the start button, it would be really nice if the meter did not dip below 11 volts, but the bike might still start with voltage as low as 10 while starting.

.

[Redman]

...................... ..... ..... .... suspect the battery could be the issue.

Would think if battery was marginal or weak that the solenoid would still click, but you said when hit the starter button "nothing happens".

Other suspect would be the ground to the solenoid. But since it is a 98 model (17 years newer than mine GS) I will not make any specific comments.

One comment I have is that you are finding that it is difficult to troubleshoot an electrical problem with your eyeballs. You need a meter to determine where the starter circuit is still good and where you are loosing it.

[Steve]

One comment I have is that you are finding that it is difficult to troubleshoot an electrical problem with your eyeballs. You need a meter to determine where the starter circuit is still good and where you are loosing it.

This is a GREAT example that illustrates the thought in Nessism's signature:

"To measure is to know."

When diagnosing things that you (usually) can't see, you need to use tools that turn it into something that you CAN see. Sometimes, just using a simple test light will tell you if you have power at a certain point. There are times it doesn't matter if it's 14 volts or 10 volts, as long as the light comes on, it's good. There are other times where the difference between 12.0 and 11.7 volts might be somewhat important. For those times, you need a meter that puts numbers in front of you.

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[suziscrambler]

Not to hijack the thread but I am having similar issues as OP, the only difference is my bike (Gs650E) will start with lights on and intermittently would cut out during a ride (feels like someone suddenly hit the kill switch ) and won't start the next second. My voltage readings are satisfactory as far as the Stator pages are concerned.

I suspect it could be a dirty connection in the switch housing? Every time I open it up and do a half job in blowing crud off and reassemble, it would start again no issues. Or should I get rewire the whole wiring to switch housing?

OP - have you had any updates ?