Intermittent starting

[mickmie]

Have tried a multimeter just across the battery, as I had thought it may just be an issue with the battery. Battery was reading 12.1 without lights and 11.8 with them on. Charged battery after this and it still didn't remedy the issue. Given that the cable from the starter switch travels down the same line as the cable for the ligbts, I'm tempted tis trip back the cover and see if there is something touching. At least then I will know that I have ruled out any issues in the handlebar controls.

[Steve]

I suspect it could be a dirty connection in the switch housing? Every time I open it up and do a half job in blowing crud off and reassemble, it would start again no issues. Or should I get rewire the whole wiring to switch housing?

Maybe you should try doing a FULL job of blowing crud off? Clean, then apply dielectric grease to protect.

Any chance you have tried what I suggested in post #12? Connect jumper cables to a NON-RUNNING car,

... I had thought it may just be an issue with the battery. Battery was reading 12.1 without lights and 11.8 with them on. Charged battery after this and it still didn't remedy the issue. ...

What was the battery voltage after the charge? 12.1 volts without lights and 11.8 volts with lights are good indicators of a failing battery.

Is there any chance you have tried what was suggested in post #12? Use jumper cables to connect your bike to a NON-RUNNING car. This will at least determine if the problem is in the battery. If you still have problems, ditch the jumper cables and continue the search.

.

[mickmie]

Have tried on a few occasions with my car battery, it doesn't make any difference. Gonna buy a new starter solenoid in the hope that that fixes the issue.

[mickmie]

new starter solenoid make no difference, however the bike will start if I bridge the solenoid. Have took handlebar switch off again and have checked for continuity, so switch is definitely fine. should have also mentioned i get power on red side of solenoid and nothing on the other side.

[Steve]

Have not seen a "red side" of a solenoid before. Of the two large wires, one will connect directly to the battery, the other goes directly to the starter. Make sure the connections at both ends of both wires are clean and tight.

Assuming the "red side" is the battery side, the other terminal will only be live while pushing on the starter button and pulling the clutch lever, if you still have that "safety" switch enabled.

.

[mickmie]

sorry the red cover goes to the battery the black to the starter motor, im going buy the rubber cover thats over the connection. also tried the car battery again just to give me peace of mind.

[salty_monk]

I suspect there is also a connection to both the sidestand & the neutral switch on that bike too... either of those could be creating these symptoms.

[mickmie]

Neutral switch is working, afaik, the side stand switch needs testing, but that's a job for tomorrow night

[mickmie]

Who wants to guess what it was??

[jsandidge]

Who wants to guess what it was??

Didn't turn the key on?

[mickmie]

Didn't turn the key on?

Even I'm not that dumb

[mickmie]

One of the cables that runs from the clutch switch had broken inside the covering, I had bypassed it at the handlebar end and not at the loom.

[avow]

I had difficulties starting my bike for 2 years. Rewound the stator, replaced R/R with polaris, cleaned connectors all over the bike, new plugs, wires, valve adjustment, airbox sealing, rebuilt carb with o-ring kit and still problems. Then one day it wouldn't even turn over.

Put it in on centerstand, in gear and moved the rear wheel a bit, then I got a small crank from the starter. Replaced the starter and I have been having no problems since. Might have been able to service the starter and replace brushes, but I just replaced the starter outright.

Unsurprisingly (in hind sight), the new starter cranked much faster and sounded all together different.