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Where to purchase SH775 or FH020AA or mosfet R/R for Canadians!? Help

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    #16
    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    I don't want to get into a big discussion about crimp v.s. solder, but would suggest in this situation to do both.

    3a) flow solder into the F spade crimp in preventing corrosion from encroaching between the wire and the F spade crimp.
    3b) flow solder between the F spade and the M spade locate in the SH775.

    5) fill the open void of the connector shroud molded into the SH775 housing (where the M spades are). Filling the void is effectively capping off the spade interface.
    Great! That's sounds like it'll be safe and reliable solution, thanks for clarifying.

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      #17
      Originally posted by LightsOut View Post
      Great! That's sounds like it'll be safe and reliable solution, thanks for clarifying.
      A couple of cautions.

      You need to use a soldering iron with 50 watts of power. This is because a lower power will take to long to heat up the piece and in that time it will get all the wiring around the spot you are trying to solder hot possibly melting insulation from the wire.

      The hardest to solder will be the spades coming out of the SH775. They are designed to dissipate heat and that heat will be absorbed into the unit itself. So you have to get the heat into the spade quick before too much has a chance to accumulate into the R/R.

      For the spade crimp, I usually clip something onto the insulation directly adjacent to the crimp to be a thermal block. This helps to pull heat from that would otherwise travel up the wire and soften the insulation. A pair of pliers with a thin rubber band would work as well. No need to squeeze too hard else when the insulation gets soft you will squish it out.

      Unless everything is exceptionally clean, liquid flux will make the solder blow much easier and you will need less heat.

      This same technique works well when soldering large wires like 14 Ga or larger.

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        #18
        I lucked out and found one from Blackgold auto parts in Edmonton on EBay last year. Total cost with shipping was 50$

        I then bought a RR harness from Eastern Beaver to connect.

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          #19
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          A couple of cautions.

          You need to use a soldering iron with 50 watts of power. This is because a lower power will take to long to heat up the piece and in that time it will get all the wiring around the spot you are trying to solder hot possibly melting insulation from the wire.

          The hardest to solder will be the spades coming out of the SH775. They are designed to dissipate heat and that heat will be absorbed into the unit itself. So you have to get the heat into the spade quick before too much has a chance to accumulate into the R/R.

          For the spade crimp, I usually clip something onto the insulation directly adjacent to the crimp to be a thermal block. This helps to pull heat from that would otherwise travel up the wire and soften the insulation. A pair of pliers with a thin rubber band would work as well. No need to squeeze too hard else when the insulation gets soft you will squish it out.

          Unless everything is exceptionally clean, liquid flux will make the solder blow much easier and you will need less heat.

          This same technique works well when soldering large wires like 14 Ga or larger.
          Much appreciated! Good idea with the rubberbanded pliers. I was planning on upgrading my cheapo 30W iron for a better quality adjustable one with some more power before tackling the electrics in my build. I'll shoot for a 50W then. And some liquid flux.

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            #20
            Triumph Motorcycles also sells a direct fit plug in for SH775 for like $10.00. Works really good.
            1981 GS 1000GLX.
            1981 GS 1000G.
            1981 GS 650GLX.
            1975 TS 185.
            1972 100. Kawasaki.
            1968 100. Suzuki.
            1970 Z 50. Honda.
            1984 CT 70. Honda. (Kids)
            1982 DS 50. Suzuki. (Kids)

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              #21
              Originally posted by habsdoc View Post
              Triumph Motorcycles also sells a direct fit plug in for SH775 for like $10.00. Works really good.
              Triumph part# T2500676.

              .
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              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                #22
                You americans have it good. Triumph pn T2500676 is about $30 in europe and then another $20-30 for shipping (since it's not even listed by any Swedish vendors).

                Funny detail - German parts site fiche lists the part while Swedish one does not even show it

                Soldering it is

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by LightsOut View Post
                  You americans have it good. Triumph pn T2500676 is about $30 in europe and then another $20-30 for shipping (since it's not even listed by any Swedish vendors).

                  Funny detail - German parts site fiche lists the part while Swedish one does not even show it

                  Soldering it is
                  I bought the Triumph harness from a UK stockist, for about the ten quid mark. Shipping, of course, was extra to Ireland. Even so, I was quite relieved that the cost of the part itself was fairly consistent with prices quoted for it in the US.
                  I see that the same part from the same source is now nearly twice as much.
                  Triumph T2500676 Link Lead, Regulator supplied next day (UK only)
                  ---- Dave

                  Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by TxGSrider View Post
                    Because of all the posts about the OEM Suzuki style r/r failures I bought a used Polaris one off Ebay a few weeks ago for $39.00 shipped and $15.00 for the connector kit. I haven't installed it yet, but the point is that the conversion can be one for less than $60.00 with some careful shopping.
                    I got bored and put the sh775 on mine finally. It was a pretty easy swap aside from having to elongate the holes a little and moving the r/r to the opposite side of the plate for space (I'm glad I have pods). Seems to be working good.
                    1982 GS1100E "Jolene"

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