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Not sure which one is "preferred", but have you upgraded your regulator?
The SH775 R/R is highly recommended to help preserve whichever stator you purchase.
The SH775 is readily available from wrecked Polaris ATVs for under $50, but you have to watch the eBay ads VERY carefully to make sure you are getting the real thing, not a cheap Chinese look-alike knockoff.
Chinese knockoff:
From the ad: it's "new", it comes from China, the bottom panel is black, the fins are all straight, and there is no lettering on the back, away from the connectors.
The real thing:
Numbers on the back fin are not shown, but the bottom panel is metal, there are round nubs on several fins, it is 'previously used' and it is FROM a 2013 RZR, not FOR a 2013 RZR.
This one clearly shows the number on the back fin:
Another one that clearly shows the numbers:
The knockoffs are getting better at looking like the real thing. The round nubs are one factor. All of the real units have them, but so do some of the knockoffs. However, if there are no nubs, it's definitely a fake. The metal plate on the bottom is now on some of the fakes, but the real units definitely have them. Read the ad carefully. They will claim it is "for a Polaris RZR or Ranger". Any aftermarket company that hopes to sell parts will claim their parts are "for" that vehicle. It's better to have a used one that came from a Polaris RZR or Ranger. The clincher on the deal is the "SH775" on the back fin. If it's not there, don't buy it. If you find one that appears to be good, but doesn't show the back fin, ask the seller.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
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Originally posted by tom203 View PostTake your pick..likely made in same factory as this one. Needless to say, get a series r/r and enjoy
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STATOR-SUZU...item1ec8f45490
ES also claim higher output , which is probably only at idle) if using a series r/r I would go ES with heavy epoxy is that is what is listed for your bile
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Originally posted by posplayr View Postall of the electtosport stators for the 1100es I have seen use a heavy blue epoxy (compared to that picture). However I have seen other ES stator listed that do not have the heavy epoxy.
ES also claim higher output , which is probably only at idle) if using a series r/r I would go ES with heavy epoxy is that is what is listed for your bile
A nice layer of epoxy, but it's not blue.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
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Thanks, I burned the black wire with the white tracer at the factory splice coming out of the harness back to the frame grounding point. I think my keyed ignition switch is going bad or maybe a good cleaning could save it. My starter also seemed to be turning slower and I will have to check it for dirt and dragging.1981 GS 1000GLX.
1981 GS 1000G.
1981 GS 650GLX.
1975 TS 185.
1972 100. Kawasaki.
1968 100. Suzuki.
1970 Z 50. Honda.
1984 CT 70. Honda. (Kids)
1982 DS 50. Suzuki. (Kids)
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Originally posted by habsdoc View PostThanks, I burned the black wire with the white tracer at the factory splice coming out of the harness back to the frame grounding point. I think my keyed ignition switch is going bad or maybe a good cleaning could save it. My starter also seemed to be turning slower and I will have to check it for dirt and dragging.Last edited by posplayr; 06-19-2018, 08:44 PM.
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leftlostcommonsense
I'm just curious, what's wrong with the chinese knockoffs? Are they really a shunt type trying to pass off as a series or are they just junk? Has there been people to have catastrophic failures with them or do they not last or do the job well? I'm just wondering, I know the real deal is always better but what's wrong with the knockoffs? If the new knockoff can do the job why is it better to buy a used one because it's an original sh775?
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Originally posted by leftlostcommonsense View PostI'm just curious, what's wrong with the chinese knockoffs? Are they really a shunt type trying to pass off as a series or are they just junk? Has there been people to have catastrophic failures with them or do they not last or do the job well? I'm just wondering, I know the real deal is always better but what's wrong with the knockoffs? If the new knockoff can do the job why is it better to buy a used one because it's an original sh775?
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Originally posted by Skinner View PostI believe most of the knockoffs you see are just as you suggested - cheap shunts trying be passed off as genuine SH775 series R/R's. That's not to say that they won't function, just that they aren't R/R you think you're getting.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35722
- Torrance, CA
Rick's stator. They are a US base company with a 30 year history.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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Originally posted by posplayr View PostThe Electrosport Stator come with a new rubber wire gland?
I am not familiar with the term gland for electrical stuff - but I admit the passing of electricity through wires is black magic to me.
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