Just wondering for future reference regarding reg/rec

[Guest]

My bike has the original reg/rec on it right now and I don't have any issues at this moment but want to know if the need arises and there's not a sh775 available would any 3 phase mosfet reg/rec work for our bikes? I've seen on ebay some that claim to be mosfet, run cooler, have thermal protection and the works. Theyre cheap and ship from my state too. If someone can chime in and let me know if this particular one would be a suitable replacement to hold me over until I could find a sh775 it'd be great. If it'd work I may go ahead and buy a couple just to have on hand in the event I ever need one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-SHINDENGEN-MOSFET-FH020AA-FH012AA-Regulator-Rectifier-Kit-Upgraded-Version/142796136290?hash=item213f501f62%3Ag%3AJWwAAOSw~O1a-sKe&_sacat=0&_nkw=mosfet+3+phase+regulator%2Frectifier&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0%7C0

[LAB3]

My bike has the original reg/rec on it right now and I don't have any issues at this moment but want to know if the need arises and there's not a sh775 available would any 3 phase mosfet reg/rec work for our bikes? I've seen on ebay some that claim to be mosfet, run cooler, have thermal protection and the works. Theyre cheap and ship from my state too. If someone can chime in and let me know if this particular one would be a suitable replacement to hold me over until I could find a sh775 it'd be great. If it'd work I may go ahead and buy a couple just to have on hand in the event I ever need one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-SHINDEN...itleDesc=0%7C0

It's nice getting the connectors with it, I'd be looking for a pigtail on them to make patching into the existing wiring easier. As to price, it's cheap enough but almost too good to be true.

[posplayr]

MOSFET r/r is still shunt ; read gs stator in my signature

[leftlostcommonsense]

MOSFET r/r is still shunt ; read gs stator in my signature

Would the built in heat protection make the one I posted better than an original? It says it shuts off instead of overheating, the originals don't have that capability do they? I've read the stator pages and have a pretty good hold on it all I'm just trying to figure out what would be a decent replacement I could get really quick in the event I do end up needing a new regulator/rectifier and can't wait to find a sh775. Since I'd only use it for a little bit and then would no longer have need for it I'm just weighing my options as far as cheap and same/better job done as OEM. Seems after all these years any new regulator would be series considering the trouble the shunts cause.

[posplayr]

Would the built in heat protection make the one I posted better than an original? It says it shuts off instead of overheating, the originals don't have that capability do they? I've read the stator pages and have a pretty good hold on it all I'm just trying to figure out what would be a decent replacement I could get really quick in the event I do end up needing a new regulator/rectifier and can't wait to find a sh775. Since I'd only use it for a little bit and then would no longer have need for it I'm just weighing my options as far as cheap and same/better job done as OEM. Seems after all these years any new regulator would be series considering the trouble the shunts cause.

Yes and I list all the ones I know of in the link I referred you to.

Unfortunately, the Shunt R/R probably cost less than $5 to produce so you will keep seeing them.

[leftlostcommonsense]

Yes and I list all the ones I know of in the link I referred you to.

Unfortunately, the Shunt R/R probably cost less than $5 to produce so you will keep seeing them.

Ok, while I have you here, would you recommend taking the headlight loop out of the equation while still running the original charging system? I've seen it mentioned but I've also seen a few say it's not needed unless you're upgrading the reg/rec.

[hannibal]

Yes, you should remove the headlight loop even with the stock R/R.

[Steve]

Take out the headlight loop regardless of which R/R you use.

Don’t waste your money on the MOSFET units, just get a used SH775 for about the same money.

You have to be careful shopping through the misleading terms.

I’ll post some links to some legitimate units later.

.

[posplayr]

Yes, you should remove the headlight loop even with the stock R/R.

It is really a toss-up.

The headlamp loop was a manual series control using the switch to get rid of a stator loop. Without it you stress the stator more. With it (and dirty connections to the headlamp) you burn connectors.

I woudl look at yoru conenctors and keep them clean and leave the loop in if they are not too bad. More importantly get rid of the shunt R/R or at clean all the connections and do a honda.

[Steve]

When shopping for an SH775, you have to be VERY careful with wording. Many sellers (on eBay) will say that their offering "replaces Polaris Razr regulator" or "fits Polaris Razr" or something like that.

There are a few things to look for. The ones to avoid:
- are always NEW
- are almost always from China
- the fins are perfectly straight
- the bottom plate is black (could be metal or plastic)
- do not show "SH775" on the back fin
- usually around $20

The ones you want:
- are always USED
- are NEVER from China
- have round stiffener pins in alternate fins
- the bottom plate is silver metal
- will show "SH775" (and a couple more letters) on the back fin
- usually about $40-50, but can sometimes be found cheaper

Here is what to avoid:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Polaris-Ranger-Crew-XP-RZR4-RZR-400-500-570-800-Voltage-Rectifier-Regulator/232300531792?hash=item361630d050%3Ag%3AwpsAAOSw~o5aXwAi&_pgn=5&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&_from=R40&rt=nc

Here is what you are looking for:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ranger-800-Midsize-13-14-Regulator-17595/302800765775?epid=1411820056&hash=item468055034f%3Ag%3AXnUAAOSwM0ZbRNX9&LH_PrefLoc=1&_nkw=polaris+regulator+%28ranger%2Crazr%29&_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_ItemCondition=4&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0

Another one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Ranger-570-Full-Size-2015-Regulator-17591/362382399383?epid=12012488699&hash=item545fac9797%3Ag%3ADjUAAOSw-2dbRQoG&LH_PrefLoc=1&_nkw=polaris+regulator+%28ranger%2Crazr%29&_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_ItemCondition=4&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0

Possibly another one, but would contact seller for details:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-POLARIS-RANGER-800-4x4-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER/142807246553?hash=item213ff9a6d9%3Ag%3AN2EAAOSw2VFbBstO%3Asc%3AUSPSPriorityMailPaddedFlatRateEnvelope%2145458%21US%21-1&LH_PrefLoc=1&_nkw=polaris+regulator+%28ranger%2Crazr%29&_sacat=0&_from=R40&LH_ItemCondition=4&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0

.

[Nessism]

Take out the headlight loop regardless of which R/R you use.

Don’t waste your money on the MOSFET units, just get a used SH775 for about the same money.

You have to be careful shopping through the misleading terms.


.

Good advice from Steve here.

The headlamp loop must go. The wire going to the hand control switch often overheats and when that happens it can damage the main harness in the process. Cleaning connectors in the harness helps of course but eliminating that loop is even better.

[posplayr]

Good advice from Steve here.

The headlamp loop must go. The wire going to the hand control switch often overheats and when that happens it can damage the main harness in the process. Cleaning connectors in the harness helps of course but eliminating that loop is even better.

In the US at least most bikes you cannot shut off the headlamp , so getting rid of the loop is not going to cause any extra load on the stator. IIRC my 1981 Gs750ex did have a headlamp switch, so there is the danger of riding with the light off.

So on second thought if you have an OEM r/r and disable the light switch then there is no downside to getting rid of the loop.

For anybody else following along, riding the shunt R/R with the lights off and NO loop is what puts extra stress on the stator. This is the same as changing to LED lights from the original incandescent bulbs.

[leftlostcommonsense]

I got to looking yesterday and my white and red stator wire only goes as far as the white box connector under the tank , it turns back right at the connector itself and turns into the white green running back to the reg/rec. It goes nowhere near the headlight or the left hand switch. There's only 2-3 ft or so of wire and the only connector I see is the large harness plug where it loops back other than the connection to reg/rec. Is it possible the majority of the loop has already been taken out or is that how some of them are and I need to remove that distance of wire from under the tank to just behind the battery box? Am I missing something?

[posplayr]

I got to looking yesterday and my white and red stator wire only goes as far as the white box connector under the tank , it turns back right at the connector itself and turns into the white green running back to the reg/rec. It goes nowhere near the headlight or the left hand switch. There's only 2-3 ft or so of wire and the only connector I see is the large harness plug where it loops back other than the connection to reg/rec. Is it possible the majority of the loop has already been taken out or is that how some of them are and I need to remove that distance of wire from under the tank to just behind the battery box? Am I missing something?

You get rid of the loop by wiring the 3 stator wires direct to the R/R. The R/W and G/W become superfluous.

[Steve]

Am I missing something?

No, it's all there. We call it the "headlight loop" because that is where it used to go. When Suzuki stopped installing a headlight switch on the US-market bikes (I think Canadian bikes, too), they just used a new sub-harness with that short loop feeding current back to the main harness instead of the old sub-harness that took those wires to a second set of contacts on the headlight switch. The basic principle was that when you turned the headlight OFF, you also disconnected one phase of the stator, reducing its output.

Yes, it's only "one connector", but remember that everywhere you see a connector, there are actually THREE interfaces that can get dirty and corrode. Starting with a wire, there is the interface where the terminal gets crimped on, then the interface where that terminal touches another terminal on the other side of the connector, and finally where that terminal is crimped onto the next wire. In the stock configuration, the stator wire connects to the white/green wire. There are three interfaces there. The white/green wire goes up to your "one connector" to the short fold-back loop. There are three interfaces there. At the other end of that short loop, it connects to the white/red wire. Yep, another three interfaces. Finally, back near the R/R, the white/red wire connects to the R/R with another three interfaces. A total of TWELVE interfaces. If you eliminate that loop by simpy joining the white/green wire from the stator to the white/red input to the R/R, you will have only three interfaces, greatly reducing the number of potential failure points.

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