Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ignition wires

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Ignition wires

    I have a reoccurring issue with ignition wires.. When changing plugs or just inspecting them, I often break the connection from the wire to the crimp that snaps onto the spark plug forcing me to reattach.. Anyone else have this issue?

    -Mark
    -Mark
    Boston, MA
    Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
    sigpic
    1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

    #2
    No I never pull the wires from the coils, only the plug end.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by posplayr View Post
      No I never pull the wires from the coils, only the plug end.

      Yes, thats the end I am talking about the plug end. I do not have resistor style "hard" boots.
      -Mark
      Boston, MA
      Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
      sigpic
      1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by mvalenti View Post
        Yes, thats the end I am talking about the plug end. I do not have resistor style "hard" boots.
        This might seem obvious but:

        You have four things going on.
        • The cover attached to the plug.
        • The wire attached(more like grabbed) to the cover and
        • the crimp onto the wire and
        • the retention form of the clip on the spark plug.


        Also depends on right angle plugs, obviously don't just pull on the wire.

        Need to break the cover loose from the plug by rotating.

        pinch at the head of the plug to grasp the metal end and pull it off the top of the plug. DONT pull the wire.


        Other types of automotive wires, allow you to pull the cover back from the plug without pulling the metal clip off the plug. Once it is exposed pull directly on the contact.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          This might seem obvious but:

          You have four things going on.
          • The cover attached to the plug.
          • The wire attached(more like grabbed) to the cover and
          • the crimp onto the wire and
          • the retention form of the clip on the spark plug.


          Also depends on right angle plugs, obviously don't just pull on the wire.

          Need to break the cover loose from the plug by rotating.

          pinch at the head of the plug to grasp the metal end and pull it off the top of the plug. DONT pull the wire.


          Other types of automotive wires, allow you to pull the cover back from the plug without pulling the metal clip off the plug. Once it is exposed pull directly on the contact.
          I believe i can pull the cover back exposing the clip/crimp, just tough to get in there with my fingers. I was thinking of adding a bit of lube to the porcelain to reduce the friction from the cover to plug.
          -Mark
          Boston, MA
          Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
          sigpic
          1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

          Comment


            #6
            I'm guessing yours are more off a car-type connection?
            Maybe a contact lubricant at the plug ends would help an awful lot.
            It can be hard to break the connection between the plugs metal cap and the wire's crimp on connector...there's more surface area there than the old style caps... so it's hard to get THEM to twist and break any corrosion when you twist the boots.

            Plus there's a vacuum that sets up between soft rubber boots and the ceramic of the plug. It's stronger than the seal between boot and wire and wire and crimp too!
            I wonder if it would help a little more to lift the lip to break the air seal..I know- twisting the boot should break the seal but the rubber is so gooey these days it seals right back on....

            There's maybe an advantage to the 90 degree boots...they seal the same but maybe easier to twist and pull off? especially at the plug end itself.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Gorminrider View Post
              I'm guessing yours are more off a car-type connection?
              Maybe a contact lubricant at the plug ends would help an awful lot.
              It can be hard to break the connection between the plugs metal cap and the wire's crimp on connector...there's more surface area there than the old style caps... so it's hard to get THEM to twist and break any corrosion when you twist the boots.

              Plus there's a vacuum that sets up between soft rubber boots and the ceramic of the plug. It's stronger than the seal between boot and wire and wire and crimp too!
              I wonder if it would help a little more to lift the lip to break the air seal..I know- twisting the boot should break the seal but the rubber is so gooey these days it seals right back on....

              There's maybe an advantage to the 90 degree boots...they seal the same but maybe easier to twist and pull off? especially at the plug end itself.
              Thanks for the input. they are the car type. The connection to the plug from the plug (metal) is what i believe the problem, add to that the plugs location especially 2 & 3. just cant get down there easily. twisting helps. I lubed the inside of the boot with a little grease. it slides off the plug and up the wire, exposing the crimp where I can grab it with a 90 deg. needle nose plier.
              -Mark
              Boston, MA
              Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
              sigpic
              1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

              Comment


                #8
                yes, your post got me thinking of my car for sure-I haven't pulled the connection apart yet but ...(my bikes all have the original caps so they come off ok)

                as to a "contact lubricant" for the plug tips ...I don't know! but I know there's something out there specifically for battery terminals that I have and should try on my own car's plugs....and of course there are plenty of "protectants" that go on to protect connections though I usually put this on after connecting stuff but they might help too and is maybe the same stuff anyways.

                Report back if you find the "best"!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I have this synthetic clear grease



                  that i put on the porcelain of the plug, and the actual metal to metal contacts both the plug end and the coil end, got a dab of dielectric grease.
                  -Mark
                  Boston, MA
                  Suck Squeeze Bang Blow..
                  sigpic
                  1980 GS850G with 79 carbs.....

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X