79 GS750 wiring no battery

[Rich82GS750TZ]

keep checking ebay. they pop up. the $20 or $50 new ones are not series SH775 but shunt types that may look like a SH775. Make sure it has the printing on the top fin that reads SH775XX. XX letters my vary.
I found mine on ebay a few weeks ago for $40. It was used and filthy but it cleaned up, and more importantly, works perfectly. It's bigger that the stock RR so I had to get creative with the install. It's mounted to the toolkit holder (slightly modified). I don't have the tool kit, so this worked out perfectly, for me.

[Agemax]

you are very unclear of what ignition system you actually have. you mention Dyna S, ignition box, points and CDI????? (GS's dont have CDI units) either it has points and no ignitor unit, or it has an ignitor unit with triggers on the end of the crank (no points), OR you have a dyna s fitted......
which is it?

[Steve]

I'm seeing guys on here picking up used Sh775 series regulators
on ebay for about $50

i'm not seeing anything used at the moment.

Skip ANYTHING that is "new" or "from China".
You don't want one that is FOR a Polaris RZR or Ranger, you want one that is FROM an RZR or Ranger.

Here is what you are looking for:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-13-polaris-rzr-800S-800-S-regulator/142175772783?hash=item211a56206f%3Ag%3A5BcAAOSwMVdYGP4M&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-polaris-rzr-800S-800-S-regulator/142508494406?hash=item212e2b0e46%3Ag%3A1iAAAOSwK89ZvCCs&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-Polaris-Rzr-800-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator/132107841503?hash=item1ec23dafdf%3Ag%3A0~IAAOSwXYtYsc6f&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-11-polaris-rzr-800-regulator/142164082371?hash=item2119a3bec3%3Ag%3AVDsAAOSwo4pYCl7T&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-12-polaris-RZR-800-regulator/132351731720?hash=item1ed0c72808%3Ag%3A5M4AAOSwAUZZ1TbI&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

Not all of them show a picture of the SH775 on the back fin, but I would be confident enough in any of them.

.

[switchback_bomber]

"if it is bad enough to fry that wire, it likely damaged the dyna III ignition module" "the Dyna s CDI seems like an awesome solution" not saying i have both, and by points I mean whatever the hell is behind the cover where the points were. I am very unclear of what ignition system I actually have, because I did not buy/install it 10 years ago.

[switchback_bomber]

oops, well I guess i'm canceling that order.

I think i found the wiring info for the sh775, is it that the points are on the left side, and on the right side, the outside connector is the negative, and the inside connector is the positive?

[Steve]

If you are talking about the R/R, there are no "points" involved.

And if you don't KNOW what's behind the ignition cover, why are we bothering to guess about it?

It doesn't matter who installed something (or not) or how long ago, just open the cover to see what's there.

There will be no further assistance until then.

.

[switchback_bomber]

I KNOW they aren't points, i just didn't know what else to call them. so far i've been told multiple times that they would not be points if their is an electronic ignition connected to it, I was simply saying points because i didn't know any better, not because that is what they are.

as I mentioned earlier, now im pitching everything, except the stator and the coils, since the wires, ignition, and regulator are fried . once I decided to do that instead, I uploaded a new diagram of what I think will work using the dyna s CDI (no I was not saying that is what my bike has, and don't worry there are no points in the diagram), and asked for feedback on that, not the stuff I am throwing away.

[Brendan W]

oops, well I guess i'm canceling that order.

I think i found the wiring info for the sh775, is it that the points are on the left side, and on the right side, the outside connector is the negative, and the inside connector is the positive?

The SH775 is a combined regulator rectifier unit. The two wire connector is the positive and ground. The three wire connector is for the three stator phase inputs.

[Steve]

I KNOW they aren't points, i just didn't know what else to call them.
... using the dyna s CDI ...

As long as we are clearing up terminology, the Dyna is NOT a "CDI". It is just an electronic ignition module that controls the electrical current through the coils. A "CDI" system uses a bunch of electronics to charge a large capacitor, which is then discharged on command, hence the name Capacitive Discharge Ignition. Because you still have coils, you have an Inductive Discharge Ignition, but nobody calls it an IDI.

.

[Chuck78]

Forgive me if I missed something in my 60 second skim reading of everything past the first post (on short lunchbreak).

Did you call Dynatek yet?

The Dyna S will not really work for a capacitor start (battery delete) system. The Dyna requires 11.7 volts minimum, and CONSISTENTLY (i.e. not through quick kickstart PULSES), & is not a good candidate.
A 4 cell Lithium-Iron-Phosphate battery from Antigravity ($109.99 XPS 4 cell) or Ballistic will do you very well, and you'll have lights if the bike stalls at night or if you are in the middle of nowhere. Theseweigh a mere 1lb, & are barely bigger than a deck of cards.
On a side note, a Dyna won't survive on much less than 12v minimum running, so a healthy charging system AND ignition relay mod are CRITICAL for reliability.

If truly dead set on battery and starter delete, you either want points, or a DIY system built from GM HEI car modules and the simpler of the two types of factory CDI pulse generators look up Louaka LoudGPZ/LoudHVX on KZ forums, and a member on here who worked wirh Lou on a GS version of that. Somewhere I have saved the schematics that the GSR member emailed me.

The 4 cell Lithium battery route is great vecause you can keep the Dyna-S, but run without the weight of a starter or big battery, AND have lighting for emergency situations when bike is not running.

Oh, and you will absolutely need to buy a starter hole plug from APE Race Parts (GSZone.biz?) or else you will have a substantial oil leak out the starter hole and down through the drain hole in tbe starter cavity. Trust me, vapors and stay oil splatter will very quickly find it's way onto the ground and the left side of your rear tire.

[Chuck78]

Search "Polaris 4012941" (OEM #) to find used SH775 regulator-rectifiers on eBay
The "new" $50 units are not at all the same, they are garbage, a chinese knockoff with crude internal components

I KNOW they aren't points, i just didn't know what else to call them.

So far i've been told multiple times that they would not be points if their is an electronic ignition connected to it

So you were told that "it is not points if there is an electronic ignition attached to it."

This is a very misinformed statement unless you have a Martek box external to the pulse generator ignition modules... or an OEM Suzuki 1980+ electronic ignition.

The electronic ignition would take the place of the points, and additionally, if it were the later generation of the old school Martek optical triggered electronic ignition, then there would be a seperate box attached externally. Dyna-S does not have an additional electronic ignition attached to it externally, neither does the early Dyna system, neitger does the early Martek system, neither does the C5 optically triggered ignition

So if you have an electronic ignition, it would be where the points were previously, and all you have to do is take out three little 5mm or smaller screws to check this. PLEASE by all means, do this, and post a picture! Riggt side engine case little round cover. The 1977-79 points will have a heat resistant cloth type fabric insulation sleeve over two wires, a black and a white. Electronic such as Dyna and Martek will have a plasticized/rubbery sleeve insulating the individual wires

[switchback_bomber]

steve, go on ebay and look up Dyna s CDI gs750... its wrong and your right, but you can't blame me this time

chuck, I have given up on the battery delete, and the 4-cell is on its way. For the starter plug am I looking for the 30mm, with 3/8" vent hose(its the only one I see)?

[switchback_bomber]

attached is the wiring diagram i have drawn up using a 4-cell, the dyna DS3-2, an sh775, and all the wiring to the lights cropped out. do you guys see any flaws, or reasons this shouldn't work

[Chuck78]

They make it with no vent also, or at least they used to. The o-ring groove is positioned in such a location that it not only seals, but also locks the plug into place with the o-ring sitting just barely inside of the stator housing area but still tightly enough to seal.

Vented is not a bad thing at all, but you'll have one extra hose to figure out what to do with (I use an empty seafoam cannister wrapped in black vinyl electrical tape and hose clamped to my frame with cushions around the frame, breather hose inserted with a filter sock zip tied around hose, and cloth also semi-sealing the remainder of the mouth of the bottle.
You can buy chinese anodized aluminum catch cans on ebay as well. They do still need to be vented, so if it onky has one inlet, and the rest is sealed, it is pointless.
Some plumb them into their pods with 3 wye or tee fittings.
If you dont have good pods yet, look into the K&N RC2222's for KZ1000/Z1/GS750-850-1000 '77-79
Cheaper and more flow than the standard big oval pods, better plenum effect also, resists cross breeze irregularities between inner 2 and outer 2 cylinders (they all go equally lean, but less end exposure for the cross breeze to affect).

Way back, K&N actually sold a version of the RC2222 with a breather hose connection on each of the 2 dual oval filters. Brilliant. Long since discontinued. Even at 40 years on this earth, I only know that from seeing a NOS RC-2222 on ebay, & saw that the old old packaging had 2 check boxes, the one not checked was for the version with breather hose connections.
You can fit a hose nipple to the backs of those and use a Wye splitter fitting and vent the top breather into them that way, or also use the starter hole plug breather into one filter, and the top breather into the other. With 2 different breathers, I'd opt to tie them into a hose barb cross fitting in order to more evenly distribute the oil mist into all 4 cylinders.

Best luck, and please post up post of your ignition with the small round right side cover removed. Im curious if its a Dyna-S (old or new version), the older style Dyna, Martek, or retrofited 1980+ OEM Suzuki.

[Chuck78]

And by the way, I've been running a starter delete for years, with a 4 cell Anti-Gravity XPS battery. Kicker-only 77 GS750 heavily modded and on a serious diet. 512lbs stock, dry weight. Added dual disc front end (twinpot mod, see GSR forum thread), & added 3 sizes wider rear / 2 sizes wider (&18" down from 19") front (alloy) rims and substantially wider tires, still knocked that 512lbs dry down to 460lbs WITH 1 gallon of gas and oil to capacity (dry weight of 512 is w/o fuel/oil). This made a substantial difference in bike handling, along with stiffer fork springs & MikesXS.net cartridge emulators, and good super grippy tires (Bridgestone Battlax BT45V are the best overall when considering grip vs rear wear - & they are tbe fastest steering; Shinko 230 TourMaster, Pirelli Sport Demon, or Continental Classic Attack RADIALS being the other awesome choices). Those mods there, and the twinpot brake mod (talk to salty_monk, he makes the adapter brackets) are the biggest mods to improve handling.
A lighter weight 4:1 exhaust, center stand delete, and a good pair of shocks (i.e. $220+ Hagon or YSS at minimum) will really help also.

This combo I have with some shorter forks and taller Fox Shox and 18" front wheel is absolute heaven for bombing those switchbacks.... I'm an absolute twisty road maniac, always fiending for some deep Southeast Ohio Appalachian hills rides...