79 GS750 wiring no battery

[Chuck78]

Search "Polaris 4012941" (OEM #) to find used SH775 regulator-rectifiers on eBay
The "new" $50 units are not at all the same, they are garbage, a chinese knockoff with crude internal components

I KNOW they aren't points, i just didn't know what else to call them.

So far i've been told multiple times that they would not be points if their is an electronic ignition connected to it

So you were told that "it is not points if there is an electronic ignition attached to it."

This is a very misinformed statement unless you have a Martek box external to the pulse generator ignition modules... or an OEM Suzuki 1980+ electronic ignition.

The electronic ignition would take the place of the points, and additionally, if it were the later generation of the old school Martek optical triggered electronic ignition, then there would be a seperate box attached externally. Dyna-S does not have an additional electronic ignition attached to it externally, neither does the early Dyna system, neitger does the early Martek system, neither does the C5 optically triggered ignition

So if you have an electronic ignition, it would be where the points were previously, and all you have to do is take out three little 5mm or smaller screws to check this. PLEASE by all means, do this, and post a picture! Riggt side engine case little round cover. The 1977-79 points will have a heat resistant cloth type fabric insulation sleeve over two wires, a black and a white. Electronic such as Dyna and Martek will have a plasticized/rubbery sleeve insulating the individual wires

[Chuck78]

Forgive me if I missed something in my 60 second skim reading of everything past the first post (on short lunchbreak).

Did you call Dynatek yet?

The Dyna S will not really work for a capacitor start (battery delete) system. The Dyna requires 11.7 volts minimum, and CONSISTENTLY (i.e. not through quick kickstart PULSES), & is not a good candidate.
A 4 cell Lithium-Iron-Phosphate battery from Antigravity ($109.99 XPS 4 cell) or Ballistic will do you very well, and you'll have lights if the bike stalls at night or if you are in the middle of nowhere. Theseweigh a mere 1lb, & are barely bigger than a deck of cards.
On a side note, a Dyna won't survive on much less than 12v minimum running, so a healthy charging system AND ignition relay mod are CRITICAL for reliability.

If truly dead set on battery and starter delete, you either want points, or a DIY system built from GM HEI car modules and the simpler of the two types of factory CDI pulse generators look up Louaka LoudGPZ/LoudHVX on KZ forums, and a member on here who worked wirh Lou on a GS version of that. Somewhere I have saved the schematics that the GSR member emailed me.

The 4 cell Lithium battery route is great vecause you can keep the Dyna-S, but run without the weight of a starter or big battery, AND have lighting for emergency situations when bike is not running.

Oh, and you will absolutely need to buy a starter hole plug from APE Race Parts (GSZone.biz?) or else you will have a substantial oil leak out the starter hole and down through the drain hole in tbe starter cavity. Trust me, vapors and stay oil splatter will very quickly find it's way onto the ground and the left side of your rear tire.

[Steve]

I KNOW they aren't points, i just didn't know what else to call them.
... using the dyna s CDI ...

As long as we are clearing up terminology, the Dyna is NOT a "CDI". It is just an electronic ignition module that controls the electrical current through the coils. A "CDI" system uses a bunch of electronics to charge a large capacitor, which is then discharged on command, hence the name Capacitive Discharge Ignition. Because you still have coils, you have an Inductive Discharge Ignition, but nobody calls it an IDI.

.

[Brendan W]

oops, well I guess i'm canceling that order.

I think i found the wiring info for the sh775, is it that the points are on the left side, and on the right side, the outside connector is the negative, and the inside connector is the positive?

The SH775 is a combined regulator rectifier unit. The two wire connector is the positive and ground. The three wire connector is for the three stator phase inputs.

I KNOW they aren't points, i just didn't know what else to call them. so far i've been told multiple times that they would not be points if their is an electronic ignition connected to it, I was simply saying points because i didn't know any better, not because that is what they are.

as I mentioned earlier, now im pitching everything, except the stator and the coils, since the wires, ignition, and regulator are fried . once I decided to do that instead, I uploaded a new diagram of what I think will work using the dyna s CDI (no I was not saying that is what my bike has, and don't worry there are no points in the diagram), and asked for feedback on that, not the stuff I am throwing away.

[Steve]

If you are talking about the R/R, there are no "points" involved.

And if you don't KNOW what's behind the ignition cover, why are we bothering to guess about it?

It doesn't matter who installed something (or not) or how long ago, just open the cover to see what's there.

There will be no further assistance until then.

.

oops, well I guess i'm canceling that order.

I think i found the wiring info for the sh775, is it that the points are on the left side, and on the right side, the outside connector is the negative, and the inside connector is the positive?

"if it is bad enough to fry that wire, it likely damaged the dyna III ignition module" "the Dyna s CDI seems like an awesome solution" not saying i have both, and by points I mean whatever the hell is behind the cover where the points were. I am very unclear of what ignition system I actually have, because I did not buy/install it 10 years ago.

[Steve]

I'm seeing guys on here picking up used Sh775 series regulators
on ebay for about $50

i'm not seeing anything used at the moment.

Skip ANYTHING that is "new" or "from China".
You don't want one that is FOR a Polaris RZR or Ranger, you want one that is FROM an RZR or Ranger.

Here is what you are looking for:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-13-polaris-rzr-800S-800-S-regulator/142175772783?hash=item211a56206f%3Ag%3A5BcAAOSwMVdYGP4M&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-polaris-rzr-800S-800-S-regulator/142508494406?hash=item212e2b0e46%3Ag%3A1iAAAOSwK89ZvCCs&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-Polaris-Rzr-800-Rectifier-Voltage-Regulator/132107841503?hash=item1ec23dafdf%3Ag%3A0~IAAOSwXYtYsc6f&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2011-11-polaris-rzr-800-regulator/142164082371?hash=item2119a3bec3%3Ag%3AVDsAAOSwo4pYCl7T&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-12-polaris-RZR-800-regulator/132351731720?hash=item1ed0c72808%3Ag%3A5M4AAOSwAUZZ1TbI&LH_PrefLoc=1&_pgn=3&_sacat=0&_nkw=polaris+regulator&LH_ItemCondition=4&_from=R40&rt=nc

Not all of them show a picture of the SH775 on the back fin, but I would be confident enough in any of them.

.

[Agemax]

you are very unclear of what ignition system you actually have. you mention Dyna S, ignition box, points and CDI????? (GS's dont have CDI units) either it has points and no ignitor unit, or it has an ignitor unit with triggers on the end of the crank (no points), OR you have a dyna s fitted......
which is it?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

keep checking ebay. they pop up. the $20 or $50 new ones are not series SH775 but shunt types that may look like a SH775. Make sure it has the printing on the top fin that reads SH775XX. XX letters my vary.
I found mine on ebay a few weeks ago for $40. It was used and filthy but it cleaned up, and more importantly, works perfectly. It's bigger that the stock RR so I had to get creative with the install. It's mounted to the toolkit holder (slightly modified). I don't have the tool kit, so this worked out perfectly, for me.

i'm not seeing anything used at the moment. there are new ones from china at $20, or US stock for $50. my one concern is they are all just generic, but with good reviews. are you just running a generic? Is the black port + & -, and grey port going to the stator wires?

[Brendan W]

I'm seeing guys on here picking up used Sh775 series regulators
on ebay for about $50

Attached updated wiring and cropped out all the lighting, so hopefully it is legible. where diagram says Capacitor i will likely end up having a battery

Brendan; I get how the stator works, i was just giving examples of things i am seeing and being told that I(as limited as my knowledge is) know are wrong, with all the misinformation having something in my wiring be wrong is a good possibility. I'm honestly not sure whether or not the points are still there since the stuff was already on the bike when I got it, but it has the thin wires coming from it and a grey sleeve that I don't believe would have come from suzuki. the dyna ignition is old, and the regulator is factory. the fact that someone was having serious problems with the electronics, enough to tear the wiring apart, coupled with the fried wire i came across, i'm thinking the regulator is bad, and if it is bad enough to fry that wire, it likely damaged the dyna III ignition module.

I'm going to call dyna and double check, but the Dyna s CDI seems like an awesome solution. if I understand it correctly, I can pull out whatever is in the spot where the points were, install it, pitch whatever was there before, along with the ignition module, and attach it to power and the coils. I'm also definitely getting a new regulator, looking at getting a rick's, or if you have any recommendations for a good series regulator I'm certainly not set on a Rick's. The coils I know are good at 3.4 & 3.5 ohm, and if aesthetics mean anything the stator seems fine (still haven't gotten around to testing the other 2 wires).

Steve; When I wrote that Brendan had just told me that the capacitor is not meant to be run in series which he is 100% correct, the wiring i was explaining was just what was in the photo(even though it was wrong). in guitars wiring capacitors are run in series... pretty much just thinking out-loud as to where i got the idea the capacitor was meant to be run in series.

My desire to run without the battery came from the fact the bike came with no starter and no battery, wanted to save some money by not getting either, + I'm stubborn as hell, and maybe a little romanticized thoughts of a bare bones cafe racer. Still thinking i'll leave the starter out, but I am pretty well giving up on the no battery concept

[Brendan W]

I have heard people tell me the stator is electromagnetic and needs a battery

These machines have permanent magnet generators. You spin the magnets inside coils of wire and that creates a voltage.
Alternators in more modern machines have an electromagnet or field coil instead of permanent magnets. That needs current to make the magnetic field and for that you generally use a battery although there are such things as self exciting alternators but we're going way off track here.
Points are switches. They switch off the flow of current through the ignition coils which causes a spark. The problem is that they wear because they have sparks each time the open. Fully electronic ignition replaces the points with contactless switches or pickups..
Are there points still on the bike and is the Dyna unit even wired in?
Here are some typical Dyna wiring diagrams

http://housewiringdiagrams.me/design/elegant-of-dyna-2000-ignition-wiring-diagram-fresh-instructions-concept-current-5723

The points are replaced by the triggers.
Looking at your wiring diagram it looks like it could work with the capacitor taken out of there. I can't make out the two modules below the coils but if they are wired up right it should go. It's one thing to get it working but another for it to be ok for service on a running bike so for me the stock wiring layout is the go to arrangement.