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    Direction indicator switch dismantling....

    I knew I shouldn't have as I'd read the warnings, but after being caught in the rain and losing my flashers I thought I had nothing to lose. 1980 GS1000GS, US model, with self cancelling indicators (which don't self cancel by the way)


    I believe the issue to be in the left hand handle bar switch, I took it off the handle bar, wiggled it, cleaned it, dyed it, sprayed lube in it, packed with grease but no joy.

    So went to the next level and dismantled it. I was aware of the springs and caught them all but I'm not 100% how to get it back together. Anyone got an explode view diagram?
    I've got the full beam switch sorted, and the ball bearing a spring for that. The up and down springs are in place on the copper for the left and right, but there's two springs which I believe to add resistance to the left and right action that I can't get back in place.



    Failing that I have a spare switch-gear from another bike, I believe to be an 80/90s Yamaha that has the more universally acceptable push to cancel type switch, which I think I'll end up fitting anyway. I just need to work out the wire colours and pair up.

    #2
    More importantly, now that you have the current switch all apart, can you see a failure? Burnt plastic, corroded copper, broken solder joint?
    1981 Suzuki GS250T
    1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo
    1985 Suzuki GS550E
    2004 Suzuki GSF1200S

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      #3
      No! no obvious issue apart from the tracks looking quite badly worn. I've run a live feed direct onto the connections and can get the bulbs to light both sides, when I put the switch back together and wiggle I can get the left indicator to flash (sometimes) but not the right, so I figures it's just too badly worn to make a good consistent connection. I planned on fitting the other switch anyway to give me push to cancle function, and a headlamp flash which the stock unit doesn't have - or doesn't work anyway.

      The 4 way switch, left and right, and full and dip beam just seems a bit vague and always has done.

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        #4
        I agree, this sounds just like my 85 GS550E switches.

        I like the switch setup on my 2004 bandit (gsf1200s). Has the push to cancel, the horn button is easy to find, and has the pass button that you can toggle with your index finger while your hand is on the grip.
        1981 Suzuki GS250T
        1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo
        1985 Suzuki GS550E
        2004 Suzuki GSF1200S

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          #5
          So update, decided to bite the bullet and fit the later switch.

          But so far not having much joy, I've matched the wires from the old switch to the new switch, there were 11 on the old switch and 9 on the new one, however the extra 2 were for the self cancelling indicator module, so I still need to work out what to do with those. I've currently just looped them to each other.

          Situation so far,

          I have headlight, but no full beam - although I do have full beam on flash, which I didn't have on the old switch and was one of the things I wanted.

          I have horn, that was possibly the easiest.

          And I have indicators now... however they're fixed light and not flashing. But I worked out that's because I've put the wire that's supposed to be from the relay from an ignition live I think.



          So there's still work to do and hopefully I can sort it before winter hits.
          Last edited by Guest; 09-04-2018, 04:21 AM.

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            #6
            Success. I've done it!

            Took the original ignition feed to the flasher relay, used an aftermarket relay and sent a fresh wire up the frame to the correct wire on the switchgear, connected under the tank. I now have flashing indicators with a more modern style push to cancel switch. Horn, and pass flasher work....







            Now all I have to do is get the full beam switch working! ��



            The issue here is I've replaced a 40 year old Suzuki handlebar switch with one from a more modern Yamaha. The old unit had 11 wires and the new unit 9, and obviously all different colours.


            Also not helped by 40 years of discoloration on the original loom, and the wiring diagram is black and white! So I'm looking at a pale green wire.... turns out it's actually Sky Blue designated by S/B on the diagram. And what I though was Pale Yellow was discolored white so it's been lots of fun.




            The new switch has a 'pass' button which the old switch didn't even have, an ignition live direct to the full beam to 'flash' someone, this is wired up and works independent on whether the headlight is on or off.


            That works, so I know full beam in the bulb is OK.


            The full beam rocker, when activated, needs to shut off the dip beam. There's 4 wires in total for this from the switch. White, Black, Blue, and Blue with White Stripe.




            I think White and Black are general Pos and Neg, and blue and b/w feed main & dip. If I swap the 2 blues I get full beam and no dip... so in theory I've got a handle on it. But it just dosen't work.


            Not helped by the fact it's a 2nd hand switch that may have been removed from the bike in the first place because the switch was faulty for all I know, so it might not even be down to my wires. I'm sure I'll get there. It's all learning.

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              #7
              Glad you are happy with the new switch...but it would have been easier to just fix your old switch. If you search the forum there are several threads about those switches including photos of the insides and how the parts are to fit together. It's pretty foolproof assuming everything is clean inside. Dielectric grease highly recommended after cleaning.

              BTW, the factory switch works in a way such that a momentary contact tells the turn signal control unit to begin the signal action. Then the momentary contact goes away as the button moves back towards center but not full center.

              Found a couple of threads with photos of the inside of the switch for you using the search feature...





              This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.


              There are more photos on my flickr site. Gotta scroll through to find the photo's you might need...https://www.flickr.com/photos/180950...57667497870814

              BTW2, sounds like your Turn Signal Control Unit is bad. These TSCU's are pretty reliable but not perfect. OEM Part Number: 38830-49X00 This unit fits a bunch of different GS's between 1980 and 1984 so you might want to search out a good one from ebay.
              Last edited by Nessism; 09-05-2018, 08:26 AM.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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