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Newbie with Starter issue - 1980 GS1100L

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    #16
    Originally posted by Steedracer View Post
    ...........
    ................ I also don’t have the “three yellows” that I read about. The R/R is cheap looking black plastic one, and the wiring may be suspect as well. There are four wires coming out of it. .............
    Stators only need 3 wires.
    The comment about 3 yellow wires would apply to most aftermarket stators.
    Stock suzuki stators have differnt color wires to match the colors of the bike wiring harness.
    But overall, the three wires of a stator can be swapped, doesnt really matter which on goes in what order, they are interchangable.

    R/Rs typicall have 5 wires: the three for connection to stator in any order, the positive output (typicaly red) and the negitive (typically black). Some have a 6th wire that I will not confuse things by trying to describe.
    You say your R/R has 4 wires, which I can understand if 3 are for the stator and one is the positive output and the case is the ground/negative.






    Originally posted by Steedracer View Post
    Yep................ I definitely have some electrical charging system issues. ..................
    .............................!
    Aside from all the discussion about your wiring and the connections..............

    Good that you have a meter.
    Dont bother to tell us how far you rode, where you parked, how long you parked and what it sounded like when you tried to start it.
    Tell us the battery voltage readings described in the "quick test' on Posplayers sig line.
    Basically voltage with swtich off, swtich on, bike at idle and at 4000 rpm.

    THen, then we can get int troubleshooting particular cause of any charging problem.


    ..
    Last edited by Redman; 10-14-2018, 06:01 PM.
    http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
    Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
    GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


    https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4

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      #17
      Originally posted by Redman View Post
      Stators only need 3 wires.
      The comment about 3 yellow wires would apply to most aftermarket stators.
      Stock suzuki stators have differnt color wires to match the colors of the bike wiring harness.
      But overall, the three wires of a stator can be swapped, doesnt really matter which on goes in what order, they are interchangable.

      R/Rs typicall have 5 wires: the three for connection to stator in any order, the positive output (typicaly red) and the negitive (typically black). Some have a 6th wire that I will not confuse things by trying to describe.
      You say your R/R has 4 wires, which I can understand if 3 are for the stator and one is the positive output and the case is the ground/negative.








      Aside from all the discussion about your wiring and the connections..............

      Good that you have a meter.
      Dont bother to tell us how far you rode, where you parked, how long you parked and what it sounded like when you tried to start it.
      Tell us the battery voltage readings described in the "quick test' on Posplayers sig line.
      Basically voltage with swtich off, swtich on, bike at idle and at 4000 rpm.

      THen, then we can get int troubleshooting particular cause of any charging problem.


      ..
      Thanks, Redman. I have definitely been burning the midnight oil on all of the electrical info in the Stator papers, Posplayers quick test and more. I’ve noticed that as soon as my revs get above 2k or so, the headlight dims a bit and as I keep teh revs at 4K or so, the light (and taillight; had it outside in teh dark last night and noticed the tailight subtley fluctuating) fluctuate intermittently in brightness.

      Alright, After taking off the battery tender:

      Key off = 12.9
      Key on = 12.0
      at idle = 12.5
      at 2500rpm = 12.24
      at 5000rpm = 12.29
      (forgot to do key off return)

      - Stator leads A-B-C at 5k rpms all above 75V. (Was around 23V at idle)
      - I ‘ve cleaned many of the connections and made sure that the R/R + and - connections were good ( as best as I could, though not exhaustive).
      - Per the Stator Papers 2, I checked the continuity of all of the R/R leads, and using the ohm setting on my multimeter, I was getting fluctuating numbers but was getting anywhere from 3.x to 6.x readings, which I believe points to a bad regulator.
      -Noticed my little black regulator was hot as heck while I was doing all of my running engine checks. Only saw a part number on the back...something like US, with 3610 above it. Not sure where PO sourced it.

      I know that I’m not great at electrics (buy I’m learning!), but trying to follow the direction here. Am pretty convinced a new R/R is in order. Pretty sure I’ll get the series Compufire one that posplayers recommends (though being over $200 is steep!.
      Steedracer
      Brentwood, TN

      1980 GS1100LT......
      1974 Yamaha DT360 Enduro
      1975 Kawasaki KE125
      1973 Kawasaki G4TR
      1967 Honda Cub 50

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