Another ingnitor post

[Guest]

81 650g no spark on 1 and 4.
So far I have swapped leads and confirmed coil will fire with a good fat spark. Orange and white wire supplying power to both coils. Both coils are showing about 5 ohm resistance.
When key is turned on the white wire on the left coil grounds out, seems to be grounding through the ignitor. The black/yellow wire on the right coil(the one that works) has no voltage drop across the coil. All this is seen with key on, engine off.
Is this a indicator of a failed ignitor or is there another spot that I'm missing that could be the cause?

[salty_monk]

All the igniters are getting old now... some have had luck with re-soldering the board. There are a couple of Ignitor tests in the manual. does it have mechanical advance? If so I’d fit a Dyna S and be done with it...

[Steve]

Not sure if a static test would show a ground situation or not. I think it should only show a moentary ground when triggered by the sensor on the crank. Likely a failed ignitor, but check the white wire with a meter or a test light while the engine is cranking.

... does it have mechanical advance? If so I’d fit a Dyna S and be done with it...

An '81 <should> have mechanical advance. The electronic advance in the ignitor came in late '82 and continued with the '83 and newer models.

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[jcskokos]

If I were to go with a dyna kit, does it eliminate the ignitor. I see 2 kits available it seems.
1 has the "signal generator" ring and the other has that and a pair of coils, plug wires, and a few odd fittings

It appears to have 3 wires on the ring, if I am understanding it right, does it replace the old 6 wire system with a 3 wire With it mostly self contained?

[Steve]

I am sure they offer many pieces as replacements, but I have only seen one "complete system". Mind you, I have not shopped for one, so have no experience in that department, but I have helped a few others install systems they had already purchased.

Yes, the Dyna system replaces the ignitor. It also replaces the stock pickup coils at the end of the crank. Together, they control the current through the coils, just like the stock ignitor (and previous years' points) did.

They (Dyna) might not show a model that is specifid to the 650G, but I have heard that there is a simple modification that will allow one of the other models to work. I think the 650G has an oil pressure sensor under the ignition cover. The plate that holds the Dyna system needs to be notched for clearance to that sensor, then it will work just fine.

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[tom203]

Check your connections carefully...but if you opt for dyna, this is system that you want bunch of guys sell these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynatek-Dyna-S-CDI-Ignition-Suzuki-GS550-GS750-GS850-GS-750-1977-1983-DS3-2-ND/381976040945?epid=171085401&hash=item58ef8bd5f1:g:c2YAAOSw4UtWTlvY

yes, you have to notch dyna plate to clear oil pressure sender- that's why the 650 is not listed

[jcskokos]

One more question before I pull the trigger. Once installed is it plausible to wire it up to the 4 pin under the seat and hook it into those? It looks like I should be able to hook up a 3 pin connector and have power and both coils in their original routing alone the main harness and make the ground wire into a supplemental ground to the frame.

I am not sure what other connections to check. The 4 pin connector under the seat is crumbling but electrically is sound. the 2 pin from the dist is good. no wires poking through the harness or pinched spots in the harness. The concern started after the bike sat for about 6 months and I originally thought it was a carb issue(there were some problems there that needed correcting) I also, through some more searching, found that there are quite a few threads with 81 and 82 650s having problems on 1 and 4 where the dyna s fixed the concern.

[tom203]

"The 4 pin connector under the seat is crumbling"

maybe corroded back into wire....and unable to carry the coil current pulse.
The ignitor found on all the 650 shafties is very durable...that's why I suspect connections. Bunch of guys reported issues with 1 and 4, some went to dyna,but others discovered connection issues. I tested 5 units on my bike and all worked fine.
Only reason that I don't like the dyna is that it sits in a very hot place compared to stock. But it nicely bypasses the stock wiring.

[jcskokos]

the heat is why i am hesitating. I am in southern California and have had the motor "overheat" twice from traffic congestion.
I will take my good DVOM home tonight to test the wires. I saw in a couple posts about someone having a broken wire from the kill switch causing the problem, but wouldn't that affect both coils and not just one?
Are there any other connections to the system? I only know of the 4 pin under the seat, the 2 pin next to the battery from the signal generator, and the actual pins that connect straight to the coils.

[tom203]

"there any other connections to the system? I only know of the 4 pin under the seat, the 2 pin next to the battery from the signal generator, and the actual pins that connect straight to the coils."

That's it for connections. A kill switch issue would kill both sides of ignitor.
I offered this deal before... Post a $60 bond and I will send you a known good ignitor.. Try it, if it solves your issue and you want it, keep it. Otherwise send it back and I will refund $54 . I sold one to a florida guy years ago who had a high charging issue that smokes his. PM me here or hit my email thoranthoran@gmail.com.

[jcskokos]

I cleaned all the connectors and charged the battery and at first it didn't seem to want to spark on the outer plugs, but after a couple cranks all 4 are popping blue sparks. Lets see if this takes care of it or I need to play in traffic(joking).


Nope. As soon as connectors were reinstalled to their brackets I lost the outer plugs again. I am pretty sure the problem is in the 2 pin connector from the signal generator. I think I'll try replacing both connectors with a clean pigtail and if that doesnt do it I'll probably swap over the the dyna

[salty_monk]

I am in So-Cal too & have traveled all over incl Death Valley & Baja at 120 degree temps. The Dyna S has not missed a beat on the 2 bikes I've run it on...

the heat is why i am hesitating. I am in southern California and have had the motor "overheat" twice from traffic congestion.
I will take my good DVOM home tonight to test the wires. I saw in a couple posts about someone having a broken wire from the kill switch causing the problem, but wouldn't that affect both coils and not just one?
Are there any other connections to the system? I only know of the 4 pin under the seat, the 2 pin next to the battery from the signal generator, and the actual pins that connect straight to the coils.

[jcskokos]

I am in So-Cal too & have traveled all over incl Death Valley & Baja at 120 degree temps. The Dyna S has not missed a beat on the 2 bikes I've run it on...

Definitely internal to the ignitor so I'll be going with the dyna. Spark definitely got better with the new connectors but still only on half the cylinders. Problem is white wire into the ignitor. Everything works when plugged into the black/yellow. On the coil side of things.

How is operation in city highway riding? I ride usually in the inland empire and LA so you can imagine the traffic if you haven't experienced it personally