Another charging system thread 82 gs850gl

[posplayr]

.6-.7 ohms is good. But that alone doesn't mean the stator is good. Nor does running a no-load AC voltage test, but it's better than nothing.

Your low charging voltage suggests your stator is weak. 13.5V will get you down the road decently if you take a lot of long trips but it's 1 full volt short of a properly running generator. A new stator and SH775 R/R would resolve the issue completely.

Yes stator is probably bad. Op needs to follow phase b tests and do VAC measurements leg-to-leg and leg to ground at 5k

[chanceafrica]

So im going through all the tests. And i have about 80v ac between all stator leads at 5k rpm. But when i tested each lead individually to ground at 5k im getting about 40v ac. Thats saying that under load my windings are grounding out?

[chanceafrica]

Does that sound characteristic of my voltage drop above 1500 rpms? And not getting a full 14.5-15v at 2500+?

[posplayr]

Does that sound characteristic of my voltage drop above 1500 rpms? And not getting a full 14.5-15v at 2500+?

Consistent with this. Pull the stator cover and see what it looks like. If burned then change both stator and R/R to series (e.g. SH775).

Key off 12.75
key on 12.13
idle at 1k 12.6 - reved to 1500- 14.15
2500rpms 13.6
5000rpms 13.4
key off 12.82

[wymple]

It was probably me that bypassed the wires. Its just been a while. So right now with the new battery it idles around 12.6-13v and tops out at 13.5-7 when reved at 3k-6k doesnt change

I've been running mine for about 4 years now with numbers no better than that. I have bought the SH 775 upgrade, and keep waiting for the big fail to put that on with a new stator, but it ain't happening.

[chanceafrica]

i still dont know what to do. Any input? i pretty much passed all voltage tests except the last one, but im unsure if they are acurate readings or if i did the test correctly. or if im just in denial.

[chanceafrica]

.6-.7 ohms is good. But that alone doesn't mean the stator is good. Nor does running a no-load AC voltage test, but it's better than nothing.

Your low charging voltage suggests your stator is weak. 13.5V will get you down the road decently if you take a lot of long trips but it's 1 full volt short of a properly running generator. A new stator and SH775 R/R would resolve the issue completely.

it seems like it would be way more likely that i have a voltage drop in a component or wiring then to just assume its the stator. right?

[posplayr]

i still dont know what to do. Any input? i pretty much passed all voltage tests except the last one, but im unsure if they are acurate readings or if i did the test correctly. or if im just in denial.

In stator pages phase A it tells you to measure your voltage drops . If you have no drops and the voltages are still low it is the stator. Get the voltage drops as low as possible. This involves chemically cleaning and prepping all connections between the battery and R/R including the fuse box and grounds.

[tom203]

i still dont know what to do. Any input? i pretty much passed all voltage tests except the last one, but im unsure if they are acurate readings or if i did the test correctly. or if im just in denial.

I'd replace the stator and stop wondering....as mentioned you will probably find a section that is Cajun fried - this can cause weak output. Also look for a genuine used SH-775 r/r to put charging issues to bed!

[chanceafrica]

Ive determined i am in denial about having to replace my stator. Im looking online they are 30-40$ at their cheapest. That seems crazy low. What is the suggested replacement stator?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I found an ElectroSport Stator on Amazon for cheaper than I could buy it from Electrosport.
follow my thread of electrical woes.

[Gorminrider]

The rest aside,because there's a lot to unpack here...

i have an aftermarket stereo

, and a sh*tty starter yada yada, it seems a strong possibility something is draining your battery between rides- Maybe this stereo you mentioned.Does it need power to keep presets of radios and clock? I'd look very closely at it or any other possibly drain while the bike sits. The "ammeter" function on a multimeter can do for this. Start at the 10amp setting(you need to move one of the leads), then try the highest of the ma scales .

I have some unplugged wires that i cant figure out if they need a home.

yeah, well, maybe something is not good here but for another thread?

Key off 12.75
key on 12.13
idle at 1k 12.6 - reved to 1500- 14.15
2500rpms 13.6
5000rpms 13.4
key off 12.82

WHERE on the bike are you doing these tests. Do them at the battery posts...because little voltmeters tapped into some circuit at the headight bucket are great as an indicator IF you have an idea what that voltage indicated will mean at the battery itself...there's always going to be a slight drop at the other end of the harness unless you run two separate wires independently for the little voltmeter...so, if my suspicion/hope is right, you may get higher readings than you offered -likely a half a volt at least which'll give you 14.2+..

and personally, I'd toss out "Key off 12.75" and "key off 12.82" unless the battery has been sitting awhile. They are meaningless if you just took it off the trickle charger.


and during rides too. Your tests all at 80volt indicate a stator that may be just fine, at least in your shop. As to what happens when you are running, well, the little chinese voltmeter can sometimes indicate changes that are caused by hotted-up stators, frayed wires, loose fuses and all the rest.

[posplayr]

The rest aside,because there's a lot to unpack here..., and a sh*tty starter yada yada, it seems a strong possibility something is draining your battery between rides- Maybe this stereo you mentioned.Does it need power to keep presets of radios and clock? I'd look very closely at it or any other possibly drain while the bike sits. The "ammeter" function on a multimeter can do for this. Start at the 10amp setting(you need to move one of the leads), then try the highest of the ma scales .
yeah, well, maybe something is not good here but for another thread?



WHERE on the bike are you doing these tests. Do them at the battery posts...because little voltmeters tapped into some circuit at the headight bucket are great as an indicator IF you have an idea what that voltage indicated will mean at the battery itself...there's always going to be a slight drop at the other end of the harness unless you run two separate wires independently for the little voltmeter...so, if my suspicion/hope is right, you may get higher readings than you offered -likely a half a volt at least which'll give you 14.2+..

and personally, I'd toss out "Key off 12.75" and "key off 12.82" unless the battery has been sitting awhile. They are meaningless if you just took it off the trickle charger.


and during rides too. Your tests all at 80volt indicate a stator that may be just fine, at least in your shop. As to what happens when you are running, well, the little chinese voltmeter can sometimes indicate changes that are caused by hotted-up stators, frayed wires, loose fuses and all the rest.

Those reading irrefutably indicates that some charging is going on. That is particularly valuable when you are sitting there scratching your head about what might be happening. In fact, in this case, these "worthless numbers" are a strong indication that there is nothing wrong with the stator but instead it is the connections are at fault.

This is because for the bike to only run for a short while, but be able to increase standing battery voltage at all it must have charged (plain and simple). Even if it is only 12.82-12.75=0.07V that is much more than what would think because of elevated voltages due to surface charges that very quickly drop once a load is put on the battery.

A typical battery might be at 13.1V after trickle charging, but then as soon as the smallest load is applied (removing surface charge) and removed that voltage drops to 12.90V or less. So any rise in the terminal voltages means net charging of the battery.

Key off 12.75
key on 12.13
idle at 1k 12.6 - reved to 1500- 14.15
2500rpms 13.6
5000rpms 13.4
key off 12.82

The measurements in red (declining voltage) indicate poor wiring most likely on the positive side of the terminals between the battery and the R/R including the fusebox.

This can be confirmed with Stator Pages Phase A voltage drop measurements.

That said, there is no danger in cleaning your connections and fusebox and then see when you stand. It will in all likelihood improve the numbers (less drop with increasing RPM).

[chanceafrica]

390435A0-B82B-4CB2-B4F4-0AA3DE1A1308.jpgI dont see any obvious damge to this

[posplayr]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]57027[/ATTACH]I dont see any obvious damge to this

Nope just Cajun fried............................................. ...