Another charging system thread 82 gs850gl

[Guest]

I had an issue before. I replaced the r/r. Noticed the stator wires looked charred a bit. I ran the engine ground to the mounting bracket of the r/r. I grounded the r/r to the same point, and then have a 14gauge wire from here to the battery. Its been working fine more or less. The starter have always turned over slow, i replaced it once. It seemed to be somewhat better, but aftertime is very slow again(although would always start) i think ive been through a few batteries through this process(2/3 years) . Right now my battery is fried, a repurable agm, only Charges to 5.5 with the trickle charger. When the bike was running last(very recently) it would sit at about 12v and charges up to 13v while reved. I know this isnt good.
what could be killing my batteries. Is my 14gauge battery terminal to small of a diamtere? I have some unplugged wires that i cant figure out if they need a home.
Ive read the stator papers.

[chanceafrica]

What would cause my charging system to partially work? I feel like there are clues here to streamline trouble shooting but i dont know exactly what they are

[Redman]

Naw, the guage of your added ground wire is not the cause of any of these problems.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

1 - you must start with a known good battery (looks like you'll need to buy a new one)
2 - get a decent volt meter if you do not yet own one. You will need it.
3 - do the quick test and post the numbers - all 6 of them.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?164993-Charging-System-QUICK-TEST

If you do that, someone smarter than me (posplayr, steve, others) will likely be along to help. Do not cheat. Listen to the advice given.
Many of us have been where you are. I was there just this past June. You can fix this.

[Redman]

Good that you have a volt meter.

THe 13volts at revs is marginal, so not getting a good charge to the battery, and then it is not going to preform well nor last too long.

You say stator wires look a bit toasted. Bad connections there cause heat which discolor the wires and also loose power. See if you can clean up those connections.

Have you done the test in the stator papers?
The major one for showing the health of the stator is to disconnect the 3 stator leads and measure the AC volts on each combination of two leads (3 measurements) at 4000 rpm, should be 60-70 volts AC.

[chanceafrica]

i went and got a good lead battery. ive been buying agms but keep frying them so im gonna do this until i figure it out. my stator wires that has burned up in the past still have charred marks on the connector sleeves but the connectors look clean, i cleaned them up when this happened before and probably added dialetric grease. im gonna go run the tests. i did find shredded wires in my amps harness, i have an aftermarket stereo, but its fairly modest. i reckon its possible i could have a voltage drop here, but i reckon id see some evidence of that, plus the stereo is functioning fine. im also considering that something is misalligned with my stator motor gear causing the armature stack to bend slightly causing more draw to the battery , but that doesnt explain it only charging to 13v at higher rpms. also if my r/r wasnt functioning, pushing to many volts to the battery, causing damage- isnt evident by it only reading 13v. ive installed a digital battery volt meter to my handlebars which is where im getting this info from, and its also possible that its cheap chinese crap and not giving me accurate readings.....too many factors here. i reckon i should eliminate these extra features and start over. i cant find my fuses. is there a fuse box?

[chanceafrica]

what are these unused wires in my harness in the pictures? they are near the stator wires.

[Nessism]

what are these unused wires in my harness in the pictures? they are near the stator wires.

1) look at "unused wires" in harness and take note of colors.
2) open factory service manual and find same colors and then trace the wires.

Quite likely they are the original wires where the stator plugged in. If so, someone knew what they were doing when they bypassed them.

[chanceafrica]

It was probably me that bypassed the wires. Its just been a while. So right now with the new battery it idles around 12.6-13v and tops out at 13.5-7 when reved at 3k-6k doesnt change

[chanceafrica]

Id rather not take apart my wiring to run tests if this is acceptable. I know its a little low.

[tom203]

[CODE][/CODE]

Id rather not take apart my wiring to run tests if this is acceptable. I know its a little low.

As mentioned, do the Quick Test....and post all 6 results. Then we can likely move on to this step to check stator all by its lonesome . You need to disconnect stuff to isolate problems.

With stator leads disconnected from r/r, and multimeter set on 200 VAC (or same scale that you measure house outlet with) ,run engine @5000 revs, and measure stator lead to lead and note readings. Then ,while still running,measure from any (or all) stator lead to a good bike ground: you want to see a very low reading here...0 would be ideal. This is a crude test of stator's isolation from ground.

[chanceafrica]

Key off 12.75
key on 12.13
idle at 1k 12.6 - reved to 1500- 14.15
2500rpms 13.6
5000rpms 13.4
key off 12.82

[chanceafrica]

I uncovered my soldered connections from rr to stator , and the connections were corroded and had broken wires. I cleaned them, resoldered with shrink wrap and im getting the same results. I forgot to test the stator while it was open. Woops. So my system works up u til 1,5k rpms ish then dies back down. From 13- 14 then back down to 13.5 after 1,5k
according to the papers thats a sign of bad connections. Which i found, which i “corrected” and did not change anythi g

[chanceafrica]

Im checking ohms between the stator wires and its bouncing back and forth from .6-.7 why isnt it.06/.07 is this telling me my stator is bad or am i not using my multimeter right. If the stator was bad. Why would it work at all, because the winding is starting to deteriorate? What if im getting a bad reading because of all the solder and flux and bullet connector

[Nessism]

.6-.7 ohms is good. But that alone doesn't mean the stator is good. Nor does running a no-load AC voltage test, but it's better than nothing.

Your low charging voltage suggests your stator is weak. 13.5V will get you down the road decently if you take a lot of long trips but it's 1 full volt short of a properly running generator. A new stator and SH775 R/R would resolve the issue completely.